Tires
#1
Tires
Yeah, we are going to beat this poor horse to death
Have a '17 R with 9k+/- on the clock. The rear tires are toast. I live in the Mid West (USA) So,.................
1 - replace rears with new Pirelli's - keep fronts the same (which could go for another 3/4K)
2 - replace all 4 with new Pirelli's
3 - replace all 4 with Toyo's
4 - replace (4) with all season (yes, I read the thread that Pirelli does not want them driven in less than 50 degree temps)
5 - have two sets - summer and winter
6 - replace with different brand - better than Toyo or Pirelli
7 - ditch the F Type and buy a Tank
All suggestions are welcome! THANK YOU
Have a '17 R with 9k+/- on the clock. The rear tires are toast. I live in the Mid West (USA) So,.................
1 - replace rears with new Pirelli's - keep fronts the same (which could go for another 3/4K)
2 - replace all 4 with new Pirelli's
3 - replace all 4 with Toyo's
4 - replace (4) with all season (yes, I read the thread that Pirelli does not want them driven in less than 50 degree temps)
5 - have two sets - summer and winter
6 - replace with different brand - better than Toyo or Pirelli
7 - ditch the F Type and buy a Tank
All suggestions are welcome! THANK YOU
#3
#4
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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There are many threads already on much the same subject, here are the two most recent ones:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-tires-204362/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...wheels-189454/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...-tires-204362/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...wheels-189454/
The following users liked this post:
Burt Gummer (07-20-2018)
#7
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#8
#9
It is winter here so I am seeing temperatures of 0 deg C on the way to work in the mornings and I am not noticing any great drop off in performance with my new Michelin P4S's.
#10
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Two or three nights a week I park in SWMBO's driveway and when I get in the car early the next morning it is usually between 0C and 4C and the poor little car is covered in frost, and there is very little noticeable drop in tyre grip. However I take it easy for the first few kilometres with little or no WOT action.
#11
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Same here in South Oz.Two or three nights a week I park in SWMBO's driveway and when I get in the car early the next morning it is usually between 0C and 4C and the poor little car is covered in frost, and there is very little noticeable drop in tyre grip. However I take it easy for the first few kilometres with little or no WOT action.
#12
I also ditched the Pirelli and moved to the Michelin PSS (pss now replaced with a newer designation)..and went to 305's on the rear. I preferred the summer tire for the summer due to handling feel and so had a set of Coventry wheels that fit Jaguar and Toyo snows (walnut shell technology).. lots of snow here and ice, for winter driving. (Overall the Michelins are far better than the Pirelli.)
The summers are the 20" and the Coventry are 19" with a slightly taller sidewall so overall size is equal. These 19" should just fit over the front brakes as they did on my XKR and I was told the F V8 front brakes are the same, if not ceramic. Anyway, I'm not sure of your winter conditions but I can say for sure the summers are like being on skate boards once we get below freezing.
If we did not have snow or ice the all season would be an option as they are ok below freezing, but do not handle as well as the Summers, in my experience.
Actually in the end I moved the F to Florida and plated it their for the winter, so never put the snows on it, and now use the snows for my XE sport. Usually bring the F back to Canada in the summer.
Lawrence
The summers are the 20" and the Coventry are 19" with a slightly taller sidewall so overall size is equal. These 19" should just fit over the front brakes as they did on my XKR and I was told the F V8 front brakes are the same, if not ceramic. Anyway, I'm not sure of your winter conditions but I can say for sure the summers are like being on skate boards once we get below freezing.
If we did not have snow or ice the all season would be an option as they are ok below freezing, but do not handle as well as the Summers, in my experience.
Actually in the end I moved the F to Florida and plated it their for the winter, so never put the snows on it, and now use the snows for my XE sport. Usually bring the F back to Canada in the summer.
Lawrence
#13
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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And it's only a few mornings in the year it gets down to 4C or lower, I have never seen a negative temp in my life and I have never seen snow in Adelaide although I have been here for 60+ years.
Remember we are talking Centigrade and 0C = 32F.
#15
Size Does (Maybe) Matter
2017 R. OK - ready to ditch the Pirelli's for the Michelin P4S. I think I've read that you can go from 295 to 305 on the rear without any mod.
1. Is that correct and the right move or stay with the OEM tire specs.
2. Does anyone have a opinon on performance going to the 305's.
2. If I do 305's on the rear what is the recommended specs for the front.
Sorry in advance if the above has been answered before.
1. Is that correct and the right move or stay with the OEM tire specs.
2. Does anyone have a opinon on performance going to the 305's.
2. If I do 305's on the rear what is the recommended specs for the front.
Sorry in advance if the above has been answered before.
#16
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: The Netherlands Central Highlands - Veluwe-
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2017 R. OK - ready to ditch the Pirelli's for the Michelin P4S. I think I've read that you can go from 295 to 305 on the rear without any mod.
1. Is that correct and the right move or stay with the OEM tire specs.
2. Does anyone have a opinon on performance going to the 305's.
3. If I do 305's on the rear what is the recommended specs for the front. .
1. Is that correct and the right move or stay with the OEM tire specs.
2. Does anyone have a opinon on performance going to the 305's.
3. If I do 305's on the rear what is the recommended specs for the front. .
There are plenty calculator tools for that on the web. I think maybe some edge might rub to the arch or inside the car. Though someone said designers take some space for snowchains inconsideration. You might get away with it;
2. It has to do with how much power your car has. I have the 4-cylinder 300HP. As far as I know, same tires as V6 cars [ 340/380HP ]. The V8 would need bigger shoes ,
or they just control it with traction control, electronicly, not mechanicly like
3. Rough estimate : 295+10=305 , so 245+10= 255 ...
But I DO NOT KNOW if it will fit ; like steering. Would you toucht the tire somewhere under the wheelarch...
But my idea is : don't do it. This affects everything, from car stability at high speed to the vectoring function controling your car .. Its not like an old ponycar with everything basic..
#17
1. Thing is that for legal reasons the circumference of the thread has to remain equal with OEM. A big change in circumference changes the reading of your spedomoter.
There are plenty calculator tools for that on the web. I think maybe some edge might rub to the arch or inside the car. Though someone said designers take some space for snowchains inconsideration. You might get away with it;
2. It has to do with how much power your car has. I have the 4-cylinder 300HP. As far as I know, same tires as V6 cars [ 340/380HP ]. The V8 would need bigger shoes ,
or they just control it with traction control, electronicly, not mechanicly like
3. Rough estimate : 295+10=305 , so 245+10= 255 ...
But I DO NOT KNOW if it will fit ; like steering. Would you toucht the tire somewhere under the wheelarch...
But my idea is : don't do it. This affects everything, from car stability at high speed to the vectoring function controling your car .. Its not like an old ponycar with everything basic..
There are plenty calculator tools for that on the web. I think maybe some edge might rub to the arch or inside the car. Though someone said designers take some space for snowchains inconsideration. You might get away with it;
2. It has to do with how much power your car has. I have the 4-cylinder 300HP. As far as I know, same tires as V6 cars [ 340/380HP ]. The V8 would need bigger shoes ,
or they just control it with traction control, electronicly, not mechanicly like
3. Rough estimate : 295+10=305 , so 245+10= 255 ...
But I DO NOT KNOW if it will fit ; like steering. Would you toucht the tire somewhere under the wheelarch...
But my idea is : don't do it. This affects everything, from car stability at high speed to the vectoring function controling your car .. Its not like an old ponycar with everything basic..
#18
2017 R. OK - ready to ditch the Pirelli's for the Michelin P4S. I think I've read that you can go from 295 to 305 on the rear without any mod.
1. Is that correct and the right move or stay with the OEM tire specs.
2. Does anyone have a opinon on performance going to the 305's.
2. If I do 305's on the rear what is the recommended specs for the front.
Sorry in advance if the above has been answered before.
1. Is that correct and the right move or stay with the OEM tire specs.
2. Does anyone have a opinon on performance going to the 305's.
2. If I do 305's on the rear what is the recommended specs for the front.
Sorry in advance if the above has been answered before.
Here are actual diameters:
255/35-20 27.0" (OEM)
295/30-20 27.0" (OEM)
265/35-20 27.3"
305/30-20 27.2"
245/40-19 26.7" (OEM)
285/35-19 26.9" (OEM)
Upsizing by 10mm only increases the diameter by 1.1%. The speedometer will still read higher than actual. You will note that the 19" OEM tire size is a smaller diameter than the 20" tires by that same margin. No laws concerning tire size in the U.S. other than they cannot stick out beyond the fender. I can't wax poetic on handling improvement as I had upsized when I transitioned from the Pirellis. (stepwise improvement in handling).
Last edited by Unhingd; 07-21-2018 at 08:35 AM.
#20