1995 XJS 4.0L Facelift 6cyl Won't Start
#1
1995 XJS 4.0L Facelift 6cyl Won't Start
Hi Guys
No experience of working on these 6cyl AJ16 Engines but my XJS won't start
Fuel Pump working and plenty of high pressure petrol flow to the Fuel Rail
Also a really good Spark on all Six Spark Plugs
If I put a bit of petrol down the Air Intake, She will run (She was running ok yesterday but for a very short while)
So it would seem that Petrol is not being injected into the Combustion Chamber
Not familiar with the Fuel Injection System on these Cars
Any Ideas what might be the problem and how to fix it?
No experience of working on these 6cyl AJ16 Engines but my XJS won't start
Fuel Pump working and plenty of high pressure petrol flow to the Fuel Rail
Also a really good Spark on all Six Spark Plugs
If I put a bit of petrol down the Air Intake, She will run (She was running ok yesterday but for a very short while)
So it would seem that Petrol is not being injected into the Combustion Chamber
Not familiar with the Fuel Injection System on these Cars
Any Ideas what might be the problem and how to fix it?
#2
OB
No real experience of the 6 cylinder, but try following the injector leads to the loom plug and give the plug a clean? No idea if it uses a resistor pack, but if there is one, clean that too. After that, maybe clean the multiplug that goes into the ECU? Which I think is under the passenger toe board and requires moving the carpet and a bit of wood to get at it - at least it does on the 3.6.!
No real experience of the 6 cylinder, but try following the injector leads to the loom plug and give the plug a clean? No idea if it uses a resistor pack, but if there is one, clean that too. After that, maybe clean the multiplug that goes into the ECU? Which I think is under the passenger toe board and requires moving the carpet and a bit of wood to get at it - at least it does on the 3.6.!
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orangeblossom (08-15-2018)
#3
#4
When cranking, it the RPMs don't go up to 200, then the crank sensor is determined to be at fault, no? Is the tachometer needle moving when cranking?
It could also be the camshaft position sensor, no? I'm not sure there is a way to be certain without trying it out.
The fact that you got it to run with fuel in the intake concerns me. Can you keep it running with your foot on the gas, or does it peter out either way?
I suppose there's no check engine light.
Assuming the car is being underfueled because when you add fuel to the intake, it ran:
Can you check to make sure you have a working MAF? If thats dead, it won't start.
Can't think of a way the Coolant Temp Sensor would prevent the car from starting. Jumping the harness couldn't hurt.
Oxygen Sensors are ignored until they get hot. Can't see how that has anything to do with anything.
TPS is read, perhaps that is malfunctioning?
Can the IACV prevent the car from starting?
Lastly, check for corrosion on the ECU. That's a common occurrence, and can easily be the culprit.
It could also be the camshaft position sensor, no? I'm not sure there is a way to be certain without trying it out.
The fact that you got it to run with fuel in the intake concerns me. Can you keep it running with your foot on the gas, or does it peter out either way?
I suppose there's no check engine light.
Assuming the car is being underfueled because when you add fuel to the intake, it ran:
Can you check to make sure you have a working MAF? If thats dead, it won't start.
Can't think of a way the Coolant Temp Sensor would prevent the car from starting. Jumping the harness couldn't hurt.
Oxygen Sensors are ignored until they get hot. Can't see how that has anything to do with anything.
TPS is read, perhaps that is malfunctioning?
Can the IACV prevent the car from starting?
Lastly, check for corrosion on the ECU. That's a common occurrence, and can easily be the culprit.
Last edited by Vee; 08-15-2018 at 04:11 PM.
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orangeblossom (08-15-2018)
#5
#6
I had something similar and it was simply flooded. Pull a few plugs and have a look, blow out the cylinder with compressed air if the plug is wet, just to displace the fuel and reassemble. Do the cylinders one at a time, as it's easy to get the coil pack wiring mixed up on the rear 2 cylinders.
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orangeblossom (08-15-2018)
#7
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#8
Has the crank sensor ever been replaced as far as you know? I am thinking that the crank sensor sets the pulse for the injectors but could be wrong about that. I had a crank sensor fail on my '95 with no warning-car ran fine-shut it off and next time cranked over but would not start. It has been a several years now but I believe I did have spark and fuel pump working when the crank sensor failed. I found out that the tach will pulse very slightly when the crank has failed even though many at the time did not think it would.
If the crank sensor has never been replaced as far as you know I would recommend starting with that as the magnets get week over time regardless of miles on the car. They are very easy to replace and right around $100.00 for a new one so if it is getting old I would replace it as good insurance to start. I tried bench testing my failed one but could not get correct readings to tell if it was good or bad so luckily I had my other '95 and switched it out and the car started right up.
Hope this helps but if you have not had any issues with the running of the engine before this happened a good place to start as usually if your computer is starting to get corroded at the connections you will start having odd drive ability issues etc. leading up to a no start condition.
If the crank sensor has never been replaced as far as you know I would recommend starting with that as the magnets get week over time regardless of miles on the car. They are very easy to replace and right around $100.00 for a new one so if it is getting old I would replace it as good insurance to start. I tried bench testing my failed one but could not get correct readings to tell if it was good or bad so luckily I had my other '95 and switched it out and the car started right up.
Hope this helps but if you have not had any issues with the running of the engine before this happened a good place to start as usually if your computer is starting to get corroded at the connections you will start having odd drive ability issues etc. leading up to a no start condition.
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orangeblossom (08-16-2018)
#9
Hi Luvmyxjs
Many Thanks for your very detailed reply, although She's never had a problem starting before and always first time on the button
But because this Car is almost like new, I have very seldom used her since I bought her some years ago, which could be one of the reasons that the Fuel Pump packed up
Though that has all been fixed now, with a Brand New Pump
You mentioned that it could be the Computer, not quite sure what you meant by that or where I can find it, so please could you tell me where that is, so I can check it out
My knowledge of these 6cyl Cars is Zero!
So any help you can give me would be appreciated
Many Thanks for your very detailed reply, although She's never had a problem starting before and always first time on the button
But because this Car is almost like new, I have very seldom used her since I bought her some years ago, which could be one of the reasons that the Fuel Pump packed up
Though that has all been fixed now, with a Brand New Pump
You mentioned that it could be the Computer, not quite sure what you meant by that or where I can find it, so please could you tell me where that is, so I can check it out
My knowledge of these 6cyl Cars is Zero!
So any help you can give me would be appreciated
#10
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orangeblossom (08-16-2018)
#11
Cheers!
I've already checked that one out but was wondering if 'Computer' referred to something underneath the dash
#12
I now carry a spare crank sensor in my car if that helps to convey how big of an issue this can be with the 4.0L. Good luck with getting this issue resolved.
Todd
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orangeblossom (08-17-2018)
#13
#14
Very very easy. It sits next to the crank pulley and is either one or two bolts that holds it on. easiest to get to from the underside so I suggest to jack the car up and get to it that way but it only sits in one position and once you have the car jacked up on "your" drivers front just takes a few minutes to switch over. Just be careful where it plugs in getting the connector apart so you dont brake the keeper on the connector off.
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orangeblossom (08-17-2018)
#15
#16
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orangeblossom (08-18-2018)
#17
Hi Todd
Many thanks for finding that Crank Sensor especially the Part Number which also checks out with a well known supplier of Jag parts in the UK
They can supply an Original OEM for around £50 inc delivery and vat
But first I want to get the old one off, so that I will know the way to put the New one back on
I've also followed 'Greg's' suggestion of Cleaning the Plugs on the ECU, which could have been the cause of the 'No Start' problem and so at least I can eliminate that one from the mix
I am also getting a good high pressure flow of Fuel, travelling through the Fuel Rail from one end to the other, so having tried almost everything, its looking like the 'Crank Sensor' as you have suggested
But what about the other one on the back of the engine
What does that one do? or is it only likely to be the one on the 'Front'
Many thanks for finding that Crank Sensor especially the Part Number which also checks out with a well known supplier of Jag parts in the UK
They can supply an Original OEM for around £50 inc delivery and vat
But first I want to get the old one off, so that I will know the way to put the New one back on
I've also followed 'Greg's' suggestion of Cleaning the Plugs on the ECU, which could have been the cause of the 'No Start' problem and so at least I can eliminate that one from the mix
I am also getting a good high pressure flow of Fuel, travelling through the Fuel Rail from one end to the other, so having tried almost everything, its looking like the 'Crank Sensor' as you have suggested
But what about the other one on the back of the engine
What does that one do? or is it only likely to be the one on the 'Front'
#18
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orangeblossom (08-19-2018)
#19
#20
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orangeblossom (08-20-2018)