Aside from the obvious power differences, and the fact that the 380 hp has the limited slip differential, what other performance differences are there between these two models? Does the 380 hp version have a better suspension or larger brakes?

Thanks.

 

I went through the same thought processes you seem to be going through and arrived at the conclusion: I did not need the 380HP version--also after test driving both on multiple occasions. I can tell you that since accumulating the break-in miles I have not been able to break the rear tires loose under any circumstances, so I don't know what the need for a limited slip diff. would be.

 

 

Thanks for the responses. Is there any actual difference in the suspension regarding handling ability, not so much ride quality? I am looking at current production versions.

Also, is there any aftermarket LSD alternative on the 340?

 

You can use the compare tool on the Jaguar website. It seems if you want the 380 HP in Manual, you have to go with the R-Dynamic.

 

I would actually be fine with the 340 hp model. I am just trying to understand the other differences and the Jaguar website is not clear on this.

 

So to answer my own question, I found some information in the full online brochure:

 

My 2 cents - If you are into performance, the S model is worth the money - bigger wheels, brakes, active exhaust, limited slip, better suspension. And while you can tune either trim to 400hp, getting the S with a full warranty on the 380 HP is a plus. If you just enjoy the looks of the car and typically don't push the limits of cornering or acceleration, get the base.

One additional thought. Depreciation on performance/luxury cars is brutal the first couple years - why not consider a used R or S instead of a new base. In 2 years you might be glad you did....

 

You are 100% correct, that is why I plan to lease. The current lease program has the equivalent of .024% interest, so practically free money. Plus, the number of pre-owned manual transmission F-Type convertibles with the options I want currently number zero.

 

Yes, the MT is tough to find used, not enough owners selected them originally - I hear the number of folks that don't even know how to drive a manual anymore is huge and growing.

Lease makes sense in your situation, plus you get the advantage of not sweating every little scratch or scuff that appears on the car. If the lease payment differential isn't huge, I'd suggest the S....

 

That was exactly my reasoning when I bought mine.
Also, most of the initial problems pop up during the first year.

 

With all the automated "driver aids" being implemented these days, there's a large number of people out there who can't actually drive.

 

So true. And it will only get worse - just wait until driverless cars get on the road - computer-driven cars would never have an electronic failure (a life-endangering one) , would they? Definitely not, nope, not possible. I'm pretty sure about that.Uh....hmmmm...well....

 

 

Do you have chewing gum for tyres lol.

I have to be careful with my V6s because its all to easy to spin the wheels out and you can get the back end out of shape quickly by hitting the gas pedal too early in a bend. Im in the UK so temps are lower and running with p zeros which are not the best in the wet or when the temps are lower

 

I got the base model because I was able to get an amazing deal on it that I could not come close to replicating on the S. That being said if the price difference between the base and the S was similar to MSRP, I would go with the S.

Perhaps the most important option is the active exhaust. In fact, I ended up swapping the base exhaust for the active exhaust and it made a huge difference. In spirited driving an LSD would be nice as the F Type sometimes struggles to put the power down coming out of corners. Adjustable ride would also be nice as well but for the way I use to F Type it is not a must and the base ride is firm but still comfortable.

In conclusion, I think that the reason that you can get a great deal on the base model is because at MSRP it is not worth it. However, when dealers throw large discounts on the base, it does become a very attractive value.

 

That's so true, I often had "interesting" times with my 5.0 XKR, but so far, touch wood, I haven't had any issues with my smaller, more economical(!) V8R AWD, and there's one corner on my usual route that was particularly easy to lose it on. I guess the AWD does its job.

 

Same here - true, I could not afford to buy the MY16 I now have new, but, I bought it for half (!) the price it was sold for new,
and no, it is not a wrecked nor high mileage car.

Taxes are among others a reason cars like these are hard to sell here when young, loose much value in the first couple of years.
Unless you do not have any problem buying such a car new, there is no point to here.
Might take some time to find the right car - right color, version, specced to your requirements, etc - but if not in a hurry, which I was not, you can make good deals

 

To be transparent I haven't tried to spin the wheels on anything but dry pavement, the tires are Continental SportContact2 (summer tires), and the lowest the temperature has been since I took delivery in April has probably been 75 degrees F. A cold day in our winter seldom drops below 45 degrees.
I've never had summer tires so I'll be curious to see what happens when the temps drop.

 

I tried to do a straight-line burnout this summer, with no success. Traction control off, launch control, but I forgot that it starts in 2nd unless I downshift to 1st, which I didn't do. But warm day on asphalt = lots of traction.