Do I need these? And what are they?
#1
Do I need these? And what are they?
I'm running a Chevy 350 but what are these they look like vacuum cans, do I need the round one on the passenger side, I already cut the driver side out. Thanks Also if anyone knows how to wire a old Lucas wiper, without using the park switch and only high speed, that would be super helpful. Thanks
#2
#3
#4
Bottom picture is the charcoal canister as Warren has said - on my Australian - left hand side fender in front of the wheel.
Is the other picture found in the same place other than on the right hand side - if it is - it could be the part of the brake vacuum section. It looks different to my 1980.
Yours being a left hand drive vehicle, these could be round the other way
Charcoal canister (my left hand side)
Brake vacuum reservoir (that's what I call it) right hand side
Cheers
Steve
Is the other picture found in the same place other than on the right hand side - if it is - it could be the part of the brake vacuum section. It looks different to my 1980.
Yours being a left hand drive vehicle, these could be round the other way
Charcoal canister (my left hand side)
Brake vacuum reservoir (that's what I call it) right hand side
Cheers
Steve
The following users liked this post:
Kriss Vector (06-15-2019)
#5
Bottom picture is the charcoal canister as Warren has said - on my Australian - left hand side fender in front of the wheel.
Is the other picture found in the same place other than on the right hand side - if it is - it could be the part of the brake vacuum section. It looks different to my 1980.
Yours being a left hand drive vehicle, these could be round the other way
Charcoal canister (my left hand side)
Brake vacuum reservoir (that's what I call it) right hand side
Cheers
Steve
Is the other picture found in the same place other than on the right hand side - if it is - it could be the part of the brake vacuum section. It looks different to my 1980.
Yours being a left hand drive vehicle, these could be round the other way
Charcoal canister (my left hand side)
Brake vacuum reservoir (that's what I call it) right hand side
Cheers
Steve
#6
Evaporative emissions. It's connected to the fuel tank so as the car sits any fuel that evaporates is absorbed by the charcoal. When the car is running vacuum is applied to the cannister and pulls out the fuel. That way when your car is parked in the garage it doesn't stink up the garage with fuel smell. Basically every car in the last 45 years has had one.
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Kriss Vector (06-15-2019)
#7
Evaporative emissions. It's connected to the fuel tank so as the car sits any fuel that evaporates is absorbed by the charcoal. When the car is running vacuum is applied to the cannister and pulls out the fuel. That way when your car is parked in the garage it doesn't stink up the garage with fuel smell. Basically every car in the last 45 years has had one.
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#8
With the original fuel tank - there was a conglomerate (3 off) of hose adapters on the top right hand side of the fuel tank, these went to a fuel separator tucked behind the C pillar in the boot. From that separator, one hose came out and went behind the fuel tank - then underneath the car and joined the charcoal canister. As the fuel heated, the fumes went through the separator, which prevented the car smelling like a fuel refinery (in theory).
Other improvement (as mentioned in the forum) is replacing the separator near the V pillar with a two way valve - when the fuel warms up - the fumes go one way, and when the fuel cools down - the tank doesn't try to suck in.
Other ideas is to use the two way valve, and instead of running the outlet line to the charcoal canister - they run it just near the rear tire (under the floor)
The second idea apparently does a much better job in reduction cabin fuel smell - but it depends on the emission laws in where you live
Your current fuel cell must have a vent some where - otherwise it would either implode or explode depending on weather conditions in the area
Vent system - top right hand side of the fuel tank
Vapor separator - three hoses in - one out to charcoal canister. This is the original design - have not put the fuel system back together yet - but will be going for the 2 way valve approach to charcoal canister
Cheers
Steve
Other improvement (as mentioned in the forum) is replacing the separator near the V pillar with a two way valve - when the fuel warms up - the fumes go one way, and when the fuel cools down - the tank doesn't try to suck in.
Other ideas is to use the two way valve, and instead of running the outlet line to the charcoal canister - they run it just near the rear tire (under the floor)
The second idea apparently does a much better job in reduction cabin fuel smell - but it depends on the emission laws in where you live
Your current fuel cell must have a vent some where - otherwise it would either implode or explode depending on weather conditions in the area
Vent system - top right hand side of the fuel tank
Vapor separator - three hoses in - one out to charcoal canister. This is the original design - have not put the fuel system back together yet - but will be going for the 2 way valve approach to charcoal canister
Cheers
Steve
The following users liked this post:
Kriss Vector (06-15-2019)
#9
With the original fuel tank - there was a conglomerate (3 off) of hose adapters on the top right hand side of the fuel tank, these went to a fuel separator tucked behind the C pillar in the boot. From that separator, one hose came out and went behind the fuel tank - then underneath the car and joined the charcoal canister. As the fuel heated, the fumes went through the separator, which prevented the car smelling like a fuel refinery (in theory).
Other improvement (as mentioned in the forum) is replacing the separator near the V pillar with a two way valve - when the fuel warms up - the fumes go one way, and when the fuel cools down - the tank doesn't try to suck in.
Other ideas is to use the two way valve, and instead of running the outlet line to the charcoal canister - they run it just near the rear tire (under the floor)
The second idea apparently does a much better job in reduction cabin fuel smell - but it depends on the emission laws in where you live
Your current fuel cell must have a vent some where - otherwise it would either implode or explode depending on weather conditions in the area
Vent system - top right hand side of the fuel tank
Vapor separator - three hoses in - one out to charcoal canister. This is the original design - have not put the fuel system back together yet - but will be going for the 2 way valve approach to charcoal canister
Cheers
Steve
Other improvement (as mentioned in the forum) is replacing the separator near the V pillar with a two way valve - when the fuel warms up - the fumes go one way, and when the fuel cools down - the tank doesn't try to suck in.
Other ideas is to use the two way valve, and instead of running the outlet line to the charcoal canister - they run it just near the rear tire (under the floor)
The second idea apparently does a much better job in reduction cabin fuel smell - but it depends on the emission laws in where you live
Your current fuel cell must have a vent some where - otherwise it would either implode or explode depending on weather conditions in the area
Vent system - top right hand side of the fuel tank
Vapor separator - three hoses in - one out to charcoal canister. This is the original design - have not put the fuel system back together yet - but will be going for the 2 way valve approach to charcoal canister
Cheers
Steve
this is my fuel cell I'm sure it's not the origional
#10
It is not - the fuel return line normally at the bottom left hand side of the fuel tank. On my photo - got blue tape on it.
Return lines are not required for a carby driven motor unless you go over certain parameters. The same principle goes with surge tanks.
I think with the carby you are running - you only need a 4 to 9psi electric fuel pump, with the fuel injected V12 runs around 40psi
But don't quote me on that
Hose top left of your picture - this is part of the boot drain - hose connects from the boot lip to the sill(?) behind the back wheel. These hoses block up over time and then cause rust behind the rear wheel arch. I could not figure out what these drain holes achieved, so during my rust repair work, I removed them (but kept the one that was in fuel filler cap area.
Behind that drain - there appears to be another hose that looks like fuel hose - I am presuming that is the vent for your fuel tank
Return lines are not required for a carby driven motor unless you go over certain parameters. The same principle goes with surge tanks.
I think with the carby you are running - you only need a 4 to 9psi electric fuel pump, with the fuel injected V12 runs around 40psi
But don't quote me on that
Hose top left of your picture - this is part of the boot drain - hose connects from the boot lip to the sill(?) behind the back wheel. These hoses block up over time and then cause rust behind the rear wheel arch. I could not figure out what these drain holes achieved, so during my rust repair work, I removed them (but kept the one that was in fuel filler cap area.
Behind that drain - there appears to be another hose that looks like fuel hose - I am presuming that is the vent for your fuel tank
The following users liked this post:
Kriss Vector (06-15-2019)
#11
It is not - the fuel return line normally at the bottom left hand side of the fuel tank. On my photo - got blue tape on it.
Return lines are not required for a carby driven motor unless you go over certain parameters. The same principle goes with surge tanks.
I think with the carby you are running - you only need a 4 to 9psi electric fuel pump, with the fuel injected V12 runs around 40psi
But don't quote me on that
Hose top left of your picture - this is part of the boot drain - hose connects from the boot lip to the sill(?) behind the back wheel. These hoses block up over time and then cause rust behind the rear wheel arch. I could not figure out what these drain holes achieved, so during my rust repair work, I removed them (but kept the one that was in fuel filler cap area.
Behind that drain - there appears to be another hose that looks like fuel hose - I am presuming that is the vent for your fuel tank
Return lines are not required for a carby driven motor unless you go over certain parameters. The same principle goes with surge tanks.
I think with the carby you are running - you only need a 4 to 9psi electric fuel pump, with the fuel injected V12 runs around 40psi
But don't quote me on that
Hose top left of your picture - this is part of the boot drain - hose connects from the boot lip to the sill(?) behind the back wheel. These hoses block up over time and then cause rust behind the rear wheel arch. I could not figure out what these drain holes achieved, so during my rust repair work, I removed them (but kept the one that was in fuel filler cap area.
Behind that drain - there appears to be another hose that looks like fuel hose - I am presuming that is the vent for your fuel tank
#12
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Kriss Vector (06-15-2019)
#13
In your search to remove all redundant stuff and since we were talking about the boot area.
On the right hand side of the boot - you will have (originally) 2 relays near the hinge - one to work your fuel pump - and the other piggy banked to the ECU relay.
The ECU itself use to live tucked up behind the structural support frame near these relays. In the below photo - it is the grey box. The wires from the ECU runs inside the cab along the centre hump then leaves the cab near the (your) passenger right foot - about ankle height and then goes into the engine bay. The wires then branches off to the instruments required to make the V12 run smooth. With the V8 conversion, I don't believe the ECU is required any longer, but to remove it means a interior out job.
Near the right hand brake light - there is also (originally) a EGR control unit, which also forms part of the ECU circuit
Right hand side brake light - see those 2 bolts going upwards - that hold the EGR in
The other thing in the boot that I would think of getting rid off is the aerial - when I removed mine - I had water come out of the assembly. I did not bother to repair it - I patched the hole in the body work and filled the hole in my rear wing. Will use other methods to get music in the car
Cheers
Steve
On the right hand side of the boot - you will have (originally) 2 relays near the hinge - one to work your fuel pump - and the other piggy banked to the ECU relay.
The ECU itself use to live tucked up behind the structural support frame near these relays. In the below photo - it is the grey box. The wires from the ECU runs inside the cab along the centre hump then leaves the cab near the (your) passenger right foot - about ankle height and then goes into the engine bay. The wires then branches off to the instruments required to make the V12 run smooth. With the V8 conversion, I don't believe the ECU is required any longer, but to remove it means a interior out job.
Near the right hand brake light - there is also (originally) a EGR control unit, which also forms part of the ECU circuit
Right hand side brake light - see those 2 bolts going upwards - that hold the EGR in
The other thing in the boot that I would think of getting rid off is the aerial - when I removed mine - I had water come out of the assembly. I did not bother to repair it - I patched the hole in the body work and filled the hole in my rear wing. Will use other methods to get music in the car
Cheers
Steve
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