Gonna' list all of my problems in one thread...3rd brake light out...Trunk button inoperable...Steering wheel shudders when turning going slow under 3 MPH...The "Lurch"...Door side panels becoming unglued... Driver seat belt goes beyond seat Loop and gets stuck behind it...Any advice appreciated!

 

Could the trunk issue be due to "valet mode"

I am not familiar with valet mode except I know it can cause the trunk to not open.

Here is a thread on it, and probably some information in your manual.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-mode-163455/



Steering shudder seems to be a common problem. Mine does it. I don't worry about it.

 

When driving home from Maryland after my purchase I noticed about an hour and a half into the ride home it started to do the 2 to 1 Lurch when coming to a stop. Did hours of Google research on the lurch. Everything from changing transmission fluid to reflashing both the ECM and the TCM. What seems to have worked for me so far is coming to a complete stop when braking. Mine would be fine driving for the first half hour or so but then would lurch every once in awhile when slowing to a stop but then accelerate. I don't know for sure but I think the Adaptive transmission gets confused when you start to come to a stop and then accelerate?? Regardless, I haven't had the lurch since breaking more firmly and coming to a complete stop. It's been over a thousand miles and you don't need to drive gingerly, just come to a complete stop for a while when braking and the car seems to learn to downshift smoothly.

 

Shudder is commonly associated with warped front rotors .

Is this happening when applying the brakes

 

You might want to try a hard reset and let the car learn your driving habits.

 

Rotors don't warp; they accumulate brake pad residue from slow stops that builds high spots that cause the brake pedal to pulsate or shudder. Before having the rotors resurfaced, try the Italian brake job: on a clear highway, accelerate to 70 mph and then hit the brakes hard and slow down to around 30mph. Accelerate and repeat the process 5 or 6 times or more. That might get the rotors hot enough for the calipers and pads to remove the accumulated high spots and eliminate the shudder.

 

Stuart I can send you photos of warped rotors from direct impact on the wheel and also when the wheel nuts are put on too tight.

What a ridicilous comment to make

 

I have seen people claim that before but I still don't understand how over tightening wheel nuts could warp a brake disc. The disc is clamped between the wheel and the hub and the braking surface is some distance away from the bit that is clamped so I wouldn't have though it would make any difference how tight the nuts are. I could understand if the disc was put back on with corrosion behind it so that it didn't sit flush to the hub though.

I thought I was due a new set of front discs on my '10 XKR after some late night standing quarter timings on a quiet back street caused shuddering on braking but 4 months later a track day seems to have sorted the issue out so I assume my issue was brake pad residue from being stationary for too long with hot discs and the brakes applied.

 

I forgive you for believing that myth. Ignorance is bliss. https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/warped-rotors-myth/

Unequal torque, perhaps.

 

Just to keep you happy Stuart I will substitute the word warped from now on .. perhaps your front rotors are 'deformed' due to over tightening or the incorrect tightening sequence was used.

Didnt know their were so many cynics on this forum

 

I'm not cynical, just realistic. My rotors aren't warped, but my sense of humor is. Accept that you were mistaken and move on. You learn something new every day.

 

I did clear the transmission adaptives to no avail...

 

The shudder is in the steering wheel at very low speed not a brake rotor problem...

 

Hearing this I wouldn't consider it a transmission issue. It would be somewhere in the tire , wheel , tie rod ends or steering rack. Also might have someone check the run out of the front rotors just to make sure there isn't a problem there. This can be done on the car with the wheels removed. Also consider a wheel alignment and the steering components can be check at that time. Also a check on the ABS system should be considered.

 

Viper, if you lightly hold the brake and lightly hold the gas; does the 3MPH steering shutter go away?

 

I think the shudder is in the power steering system.

 

Why don't you look at the definition of warped Stuart .

Stuart have you ever turned a single spanner in your life I very much doubt it

 

Exactly. But I find it hard to believe when the car came out as new it would have this kind of problem

 

OK, how about we all agree that "Warped" could be a condition and not a Causality. . ? ?

 

I want to rule out RPM drop of the engine causing a weaker output of the power steering pump.

The light throttle + light brakes keeps the RPM from dropping when demand is placed on the power steering pump.