Hello question
has anyone tried the MST-80 +
Battery voltage stabiliser
I came back to new Zealand two weeks ago from the United Kingdom
I brought back my JLR IDS SDD
but forgot to bring voltage stabiliser
So I managed to find this one for $100.00 nzd
Or £46.00 pound sterling
just wanted to know if they are any good
thanks

 

Need the specs on that power supply.
Note that that the newer the car the more amps are required. You also need a low ripple supply. 50MV or less. This can be somewhat hard to find.
See attached documents from JLR on power supply requirements.
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Hi =clubairth
thanks for the information
But unfortunately understanding that kind of information is what i struggle with

This is what I found out about it

Thanking you
Darrol

Core Specifications

• Input Voltage: Universal compatibility with \(AC110V\) or \(220V\) \(( +/- 15\%)
• auto-switching
• Frequency Range: 40 to 60 Hz
• Output Voltage: 14 .1 v to 14.5 v DC
• Rated Current: 0 to 100 amp (continuous)
• Rated Power Capacity: 1500 w
• 
  
• Ripple & Noise: 100m v p p thanks to Peter from Australia he made me realize I made a typo
• Should be ripple & Noise 0 to 100 vpp
• Auto adjusting
• Operating Temperature: - 40 c to + 85 c

Key Features

• Smart Charging: Features intelligent, fully automatic charging technology to prolong battery lifespan and safely charge batteries that have run low.
• Safety Protections: Built-in safeguards against output over-voltage, over-current, short-circuits, and machine overheating.
• Design: Utilizes switching power supply

This device is primarily used to prevent sudden voltage drops or power interruptions that can corrupt data and damage expensive vehicle ECUs during lengthy diagnostic and coding sessions


This is it connected to battery ignition off but headlights on as car has no instermint cluster fitted

 

Hello Darrol...

Well, comparing Clubair's notes with yours, the ripple should be less than 50mV, but you stabilizer has 100mV. I cannot say, how critical that is.

But that triggers a question from my side:
I understand that it is critical to ensure that your battery-voltage does not drop, while you are using JLR IDS SDD. But I thought that that could be archived by connecting a good battery charger to the battery. My intention was to use my 15A CTEK battery charger for that purpose... Would that be wrong?

 

Hello Peter
Thanks for the reply
Had a quick look again at ripple spec s it says
Auto switching from 0 to 100m.v
so I wrote it down wrong

As for not using a battery charger
You hear different things
Some say you can some say you can not
But for $100.00 it was worth it
as you can also use it as a battery charger
Well that what it says in the manual

Thanks
Darrol

 

It's not bad at 100 MV and since JLR wants 50 mv I can't say if that will cause problems or not. With ripple you want that number to be as low as possible. Especially for programming. If your only trying to read codes people can get away with a normal battery charger. But it is a risk! That's the problem when you read internet experts using battery chargers. Will they fix your car when this blows up in your face? No of course not. They are keyboard experts without any hands on experience. That's what so great about this car forum. Real people with real experience. Heck we even have JLR factory techs posting!

It falls back to that old saying? "Do you feel lucky kid?". To me why risk it when we have dozens of threads with SDD disasters by people who did not know what they were doing. SDD is a powerful tool and that cuts BOTH ways! Use it with caution!

BUT any power supply that at least publishes a ripple measurement tends to be a higher quality one. Be aware if they only publish amps and volts. That's fine for a battery charger but not for a DC power supply.

Also follow the amperage rating recommendations. I can't explain it but my SDD draws 30+ amps for hours on end when I am using it. Again JLR wants 55 amps.
I run an Iota DLS-55. They are expensive new but around $100 used on EBay.
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