Howdy from 🇺🇸
So what’s with all the AIR


in the braking system
after having replaced the ‘nipple’
on the front right caliper

 

https://www.google.com/search?ie=UTF...+system+nipple

 

Well, having spent hours of pumping the pedal to push all the bubbles out (engine on and then engine off), to the point of all air in that tube…
🤔

 

Mine did that too. Realized it was air most likely coming in at the bleeder nipple. I could have changed them, it didn't. Hasn't been a problem. You'll know if there is air in them. As long as you dont let the master cylinder dry when adding fluid, should be no problem. On a side note, everyone should get a Motive brake bleeder. One of the most "worth it" tools I own.

 

Motive Air Brake Bleeder it is.

Thou what I’ve already ordered from eBay was the ‘Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Gauge’ $25🧾

Thou what site has the illustrations on the caliper maintenance?

 

I think any brake bleeder like that is a step up. I only said Motive as it is the specific one I have so I can recommend it specifically. As far as the documentation, if you look at the sticky posts at the beginning of this x400 forum, you should find what you need there. Though I wouldn't necessarily think it's the caliper. First thing I would do is just change the bleeder nipples on each of the calipers. Got to do it quick though so as not to lose too much fluid but it's not hard to do. See what you get with that. I don't think there's usually air infiltration from around the caliper piston itself.

 

And there was barely any DOT4 fluid pressure out when rescrewing the nipple 🐟

 

So you replaced the frt right nipple, and then you tried to ONLY bleed that one?
I have a hunch that this might not work.
Bleeding - imho - always works like that: You always start at that nipple, which is furthest way from the brake-master-cylinder, and then you come closer.
'I would not expect that bleeding the frt right one ONLY would work, because there would be air trapped BEHIND that one, too.

 

Yeah, man
I initially started with the rear right
(that’s been loose)
then the rear left
and currently stuck on the front right

 

All I can think of, is that sometimes there is for some reason a bit more air caught in the system (especially of cause, if you let the reservoir run empty).
With a bit of luck the bubbles will stop after a while.
However, recently I let my reservoir run empty (while bleeding everything) on my van, where the same reservoir also feeds a secondary cylinder for the manual gear shifter...
That was really bad. There was no "natural way" to get the air out of the secondary cylinder - thus I came up with a "cunning plan", which worked:
I jammed something on the clutch-pedal, connected a tube on he open bleeder-valve, and to this an airtight "fluid catcher", and the outgoing tube from that one I connected to a powerful vacuum pump, which I had to create a vacuum in a house-A/C system before letting the refrigerant flow in. That worked.

 

Right on
Spent a few bottles of Synthetic DOT4 refilling that reservoir till it’s clean coming out from the front right nipple☀️

So I got this fancy kit today from eBay and some pumping makes the vaccum gauge go up and then come down quickly as if there’s a lack of vacuum or leaking nipple. Screwed that nipple somewhat tighter and it slows the vacuum leak while pumping that gun. And despite of all that pumping the fluid is not moving from the reservoir and it’s all air in the tubes of the kit
🦈

 

Unfortunately, I have never found that style of brake bleeder much better than the manual way. What I'm referring to is the type of bleeder that you fill with fluid and then you connect it hole via a cap to the reservoir. Then you put 15 psi by pumping it. Then you can go around as you please to each bleeder screw and bleed it without worrying about pressing the pedal and without worrying about the reservoir running dry. They are somewhat expensive for what they do, but one of the best investments and a toll I've ever made.

https://ebay.us/m/6kf8cS

(There are different caps. I believe the cap that we use on our x- – type is in the primary kit. I don't think I had to buy any extras but I don't remember)

 

@ 777eleven: Funny, I do have that exact same kit for brake bleeding. I bought it ages ago, attempted to use it, and immediately discarded it as non-functional... - but I was wrong there - I just did not use it right...:
When I referred in my last post above to the "airtight "Fluid catcher"", I actually meant this exact same "cup" from this kit you used (while cup with the black lid). And only when I used this in combination with a powerful electric vacuum pump and still nothing happened, I realized that there was NO VACUUM being created at the nipple. Yes, the pump creates a vacuum. The pump connects to the "cup", and then there is no more vacuum. Then I figured out, why: Note the black rubber seal-ring in your picture located in the lower half of your red box and there in the upper right corner...!
This rubber seal needs to be placed between the white cup and it's black lid. Without that seal there is a massive air-leak at the cup and any vacuum being created with the hand-pump "evaporates". If you insert that seal, the hand-pump should work - although my electric pump is obviously better. Try with the hand-pump first, if not, get an electric one for A/C systems. Mine was about AUD$100.

 

Yeah man, you’re right
That was extra rubber band of a gasket that came with the kit, while the identical one was already in place…
So I will be using the fluid intake kind of pump as recommended earlier, thou what’s with the sequence wording on this piece of paper 📄

 

I tried reading this Chinese nonsense until my head started to hurt. Obviously it's wrong to start at the nipple closest to the master cylinder.

And whatever else those wildly strewn out letter-salat want to suggest...:
1st tube from nipple to jar (to jar-bottom)..
2nd tube from jar (jar-lid) to pump.
Open nipple slightly and pump.
Might be an idea to place a little bit of old brake fluid into the jar already - but this might not even be necessary.

 

Well, pumped some air bubbles from the front calipers today. And despite of the seemingly soft brake pedal, it works. 👍

 

Made the process way easier, I bet?

 

Absolutely
🛩️

 

So what exactly is EGR all about?

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation

At the end of the day, it reduces emissions, which is why in some countries you fail the technical check-up, if your EGR-system is faulty to the effect that the emissions are not as low as they should be with that system (being operational). In Australia there is no measurement of car-emissions, i.e. no-one would ever notice that the EGR system is faulty.

I am not sure, though, where your question is coming from, since your problem was bleeding of the brakes, nor do I know what this has to do with the map of America...

PS: ...or was this just a "Who wants to be a millionaire"-question from your side, and I won? (....especially for recognizing the land-mass shown on your map?)