2004 x type front bearings-realistic to do by self?
#1
2004 x type front bearings-realistic to do by self?
Took off one side wheel/caliper and hub nut. Removed wheel speed sensor. Removed both nuts on ball joint and control arm but could not get those apart. Didn't dare use pickle fork on control arm-hammered some on it but wont budge. Ball joint-wedged pickle fork between arm and joint without touching the rubber-hammered fork with sledge but wont budge... Did em on Taurus and Saturn, big job but can be done...also knuckle has to detach from strut-didn't even try getting that out...
Garage wants $580. how does the average person do this?
Garage wants $580. how does the average person do this?
#2
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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See here for inspiration.....
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...wheel+bearings
I would've thought it was easier to just replace the hub assy, if doing yourself the extra cost in parts will be more than offset by labour savings
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...wheel+bearings
I would've thought it was easier to just replace the hub assy, if doing yourself the extra cost in parts will be more than offset by labour savings
#3
Took off one side wheel/caliper and hub nut. Removed wheel speed sensor. Removed both nuts on ball joint and control arm but could not get those apart. Didn't dare use pickle fork on control arm-hammered some on it but wont budge. Ball joint-wedged pickle fork between arm and joint without touching the rubber-hammered fork with sledge but wont budge... Did em on Taurus and Saturn, big job but can be done...also knuckle has to detach from strut-didn't even try getting that out...
Garage wants $580. how does the average person do this?
Garage wants $580. how does the average person do this?
pic for reference only.
I only say this from experience
once i got the knuckle off pep boys replaced the bearing for me for $30 (labor) I had to provide the bearing
Last edited by Paulc732; 12-15-2014 at 01:07 PM.
#4
My ball joint is held on with 3 huge rivets, not bolts..so no.
The problem in the DIY process is due to his assertion that he got the knuckle off-I cannot get my ball joint apart without fear of destroying it. I did put a pickle fork in between it and the arm, and used a hand sledge and it won't move...now if I keep hammering on that, it could pop...but I dont want to risk a)tearing that joint boot, so I can't just use the fork normally...and b) I just fear I'll mess up the lower arm somehow with all that sledging...
Here's a question, if you used the slide tool could you pull out the hub alone, and then with that out, there is a tool kit I saw that has L type hooks (2) and you MAY be able to slide them both in and then use the tool to press the bearing out...his tool kit doesn't include those tools.
The problem in the DIY process is due to his assertion that he got the knuckle off-I cannot get my ball joint apart without fear of destroying it. I did put a pickle fork in between it and the arm, and used a hand sledge and it won't move...now if I keep hammering on that, it could pop...but I dont want to risk a)tearing that joint boot, so I can't just use the fork normally...and b) I just fear I'll mess up the lower arm somehow with all that sledging...
Here's a question, if you used the slide tool could you pull out the hub alone, and then with that out, there is a tool kit I saw that has L type hooks (2) and you MAY be able to slide them both in and then use the tool to press the bearing out...his tool kit doesn't include those tools.
Last edited by eriklane; 12-15-2014 at 02:27 PM.
#5
If you want to take the entire hub out, use a jack to lift up on the tie rod end as you smack the side of the joint with a hammer will allow it to come apart easily.
For the upper part of the hub, take the bolts out of the top of the strut and remove the entire assembly.
The lower control arm ball joint will come apart but you have to remove the two large and two small subframe bolts on the side of the car you are working on to get enough room to get the ball joint apart.
The ball joint isn't a press fit like some cars, the bolt holds it in and if you tear the boot the entire control arm assembly only costs $40 on e-bay and amazon now.
For the upper part of the hub, take the bolts out of the top of the strut and remove the entire assembly.
The lower control arm ball joint will come apart but you have to remove the two large and two small subframe bolts on the side of the car you are working on to get enough room to get the ball joint apart.
The ball joint isn't a press fit like some cars, the bolt holds it in and if you tear the boot the entire control arm assembly only costs $40 on e-bay and amazon now.
#6
I plan on retrying this Sat am as it'll give me all day. I did our Taurus and did use a ball joint separator but it took a ton of force to get that to pop out. I will have to grind off the rivets and replace those with 3 short studs...and from there, I believe now I can do it-as you said...then it's just a press out and in for the bearing and reassy...
I',m confident now...and ya have to take the hub out as then it reveals the bearing in the knuckle...
I',m confident now...and ya have to take the hub out as then it reveals the bearing in the knuckle...
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