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at 40-50mph loss of power

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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 07:43 PM
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while i was driving down the road around 40-50mph car just lost power,engine was still running ,pushed the gas pedal but no power. engine light,battery light,oil pressure light came on.was hard to steer.
car was running fine before,some noise came from the engine compartment around the starter motor or from the right side and last couple of days rpm dropped while standing at traffic light.
couldn't start the car,it was cranking but no start .had to to tow it.
any idea ??
 
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 09:06 PM
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besi, from the sounds of things, your ecu lost power or failed, resulting in the engine loosing all command of when to fire the engine. This will also result in a no start/no crank condition because the code in the key is sent to the ECU to be verified before a signal will be sent to the starter to roll the engine.

Now, one check you may want to do is to use a small jumper wire and go between the large post and small post on the starter (ie, battery post to the remote start post). The engine should turn over at this point. It will not start, but this will atleast confirm that your problem is electrical, not mechanical. If for some reason the motor seized, you will hear the starter click, but the engine will not rotate.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 09:31 AM
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Just about could be (big) loss of vacuum.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 06:21 AM
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I had nearly the same thing happen to me a month ago, with difference only that engine would not crank. New battery solved my problem. Pull your battery out and take it to Interstate Battery or Sears to have it checked. When you've verified good battery power then get a scan tool to check for OBD codes. Your comment about "some noise from right side" may point to a mechanical problem with the serpentine belt area. To get to that you'll need to put the car up, remove RF wheel, then the access panel in the wheel well. You'll need a special thin serpentine tensioner wrench (Northern Tool, about $20) to get the belt off; there's not enough room for a 3/8" drive ratchet or breaker bar.
 
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Last edited by swingwing; Nov 28, 2016 at 06:34 AM.
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 08:40 PM
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thanks for the reply guys.looks like my Fuel pump died.
my mechanic checked it,i haven't talked to him what else did he checked.
is there anything i should check before i go with the fuel pump ?.
it's not cheap around $400 labor plus $500 for a new pump.
i have to look around on ebay,can't afford a grand right now. worst timing just before christmas right after black friday.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 09:02 PM
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besi, check out: Fuel Pump 2005 X Type Sku#1922258 | eBay

That will get you a used pump for around $100. can't help you with the labor as this is a fairly labor intensive job. But, saved you $400 overall.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2016 | 11:01 PM
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thanks,found couple of more on ebay.also sent a message to my mechanic to double check the problem before i order it.
what else he should look for or usually a bad fuel pump pretty obvious ?
i read about bad relay,inertia switch..etc giving the same symptoms.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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Am sure your mechanic will want to verify fuel pump failure before starting the repair, as the fuel tank has to come down to get to the pump. Not an easy job. If pump gets replaced make sure you replace fuel filter as well.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2016 | 11:45 AM
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You must have something else going on as well. A bad fuel pump won't cause the battery light, oil light and check engine light all to come on at the same time with the engine running. Have your guy do a load test on the battery and check the battery cables as well.
 
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