Brake fluid renewal
 

Looking over the Vehicle Maintenance Sheet Jaguar X-Type 2.0, 2.5 & 3.0 litre I see it states to renew the brake fluid every 2 years. Is there anything different in this process to bleeding the brake system at the callipers? Other than the obvious of removing all the old fluid and replacing it with new fluid of the correct spec. I recently (mileage wise - last year before car was off the road) replaced brake pads as required (can't remember if fronts needed replacing or not) and bled all 4 corners of the vehicle. Having been off the road for about a year now due to transmission failure I'm back on the road but the ABS warning light on the dash is on. The transmission repairer tells me a code was observed for a pending fault of the ABS pump. My OBDII bluetooth connector (cheap one) doesn't show me anything to do with the brakes. Also the park brake lever/handle won't engage unless it is pulled up an excessive amount, it just drops back into the console, and the two brake warning lights on the dash are illuminated with or without this lever/handle engaged. The only fault code my cheap connector is finding is the upstream Bank 2 O2 sensor, but I can't see that being related to the brakes. Obviously that is a separate issue I need to address.

Many thanks in advance

I'm pretty sure I've read several times from Thermo that if the e-brake has to be pulled up excessively, the rear caliper is messed up. You can search his name and posts to see it.
The other caution is bleeding the brakes. Again search here for which wheel rotation is used. Another thing that quite a few people complain about is after bleeding brakes it gets messed up and requires an adjustment of the rod in the brake booster. I've read enough problems here that when I do mine, I'm paying the $150 to the shop to have it done. Just had my fluid checked and shop said I'm still good.

Found sequence = RR, LR, RF, LF.

Post #8 & others =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-brake-161465/

Thanks Dell Gailey, I was aware of having to follow the correct sequence of corners so that wasn't a problem. I thought there may have been something that needed doing at the ABS pump but I haven't seen anything to indicate that as yet. I'll check out the posts from Thermo.

I did read a Jag tech talking about a procedure to bleed the ABS prior to wheel bleeding. I'll see if I can find it again.

Here it is =
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...problem-92831/

newtojags, when it comes to the e-brake lever, what you will find is that one of your e-brake levers will be frozen in a forward position (ie, leaning more towards the front bumper than the other). If you pull off both rear wheels (with the car supported by jackstands), you can look at the e-brake levers and see if one is pointed more towards the front of the car than the other. If in doubt, you can use your thumb to push the lever back (towards the rear bumper). If you get movement, then the lever is sticking. You may even be able to see some distance between the lead ball on the end of the cable and the retaining spot on the lever.

As for the repair, you have 2 options. The quicker way is to simply get a new caliper and install it. The other way is to rebuild the caliper. Almost as expensive as buying a new caliper the first time, but, after that, it gets significantly cheaper. The rebuild kit is made by Centric and you will need a 14mm pentasocket (5 pointed socket, yes, they make them). I have a post in the forums on how to rebuild the caliper.

If you need more info, let me know.

Finding the pentagon sockets here in Australia saw me having to buy online, at least it was from within Australia. One 23mm socket was available locally for $95 but they didn't have any other sizes. I got a set of 4 including a 14mm for $50 including postage. Now I just have to wait for the, less than $40 delivered, both sides rear caliper repair kit including pistons (extra $8) to arrive from the UK, even the online local price was again out of the ball park. I hope the kit includes all the parts in the ebay listing photos, it wouldn't be the first time I've had something arrive without all the parts in the images. There appears to be two types of pistons for the rear calipers, the cutouts for the pins in the pads differ. When I ordered the kit I didn't look that closely at the images. Could this be an issue if I picked the wrong ones? Both are listed for 2001-2009. The third image was listed as 2004-2010 but I can't remember what my 2002 piston cutouts looked like when I changed the pads, both look familiar though I've only ever played with one X-Type.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...06e837ea2d.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5af0bab19f.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...58552f3bb6.jpg

newtojags, the cutouts shouldn't be that big of an issue. Besides, from my experience, you really only need the software. Getting the pistons is nice should you have a major failure, but I have not seen a Jag piston become bad. Follow my rebuild post and you won't have an issue. The big thing is making sure you get a good high temp grease to put on the e-brake lever to help ensure it doesn't bind up over time.

My only concern was the diameter of the pistons suiting my calipers, and then the software to suit.