check engine symbol - x400 2.1
#1
check engine symbol - x400 2.1
the engine symbol on the dashboard I am told through the forum should stay lit until started then disappear
If it disappears before starting then I believe , the immobilizer is active. Is that correct? I hope my understanding of the posts is correct.
My Engine symbol disapears and the cars symptoms indicate no spark, no start
Where would the likely cause be, there is no pats light flashing.
At a loss as to where to start
Thanks
John
If it disappears before starting then I believe , the immobilizer is active. Is that correct? I hope my understanding of the posts is correct.
My Engine symbol disapears and the cars symptoms indicate no spark, no start
Where would the likely cause be, there is no pats light flashing.
At a loss as to where to start
Thanks
John
#2
The check engine light will go on when you initially turn the key and if everything is ok it will go out. Immolbilizer has nothing to do with it.
For your issue I would check the battery first, based on teh limited info you provided.. The car is very senistive to the proper voltage. If the car was running fine and then the next time you get in and try and start it you get nothing, it could be the battery.
For your issue I would check the battery first, based on teh limited info you provided.. The car is very senistive to the proper voltage. If the car was running fine and then the next time you get in and try and start it you get nothing, it could be the battery.
#3
Not to contradict Alpha as he's a "guru" here, but yes, if you turn key to position 2 (1 before start) the m.i.l. (engine icon) must remain lit. If it goes off before starting the car, this is Jaguar's indication the immobilizer is activated.
Firstly check the ignition barrel and make sure the little "covering hatch" is closing fully. Some graphite lube is helpful (NOT wd40 type).
It is strange that the PATS light is not flashing. Also try manually locking and unlocking the driver's door several times to see if the PATS starts blinking while locked (slow repetitive blinking).
Battery as Alpha mentioned would be the logical first test.
Has ANY work been done recently? Have you jacked it up, had the front end lifted (like towed), hit a really bad pot hole, etc.
Firstly check the ignition barrel and make sure the little "covering hatch" is closing fully. Some graphite lube is helpful (NOT wd40 type).
It is strange that the PATS light is not flashing. Also try manually locking and unlocking the driver's door several times to see if the PATS starts blinking while locked (slow repetitive blinking).
Battery as Alpha mentioned would be the logical first test.
Has ANY work been done recently? Have you jacked it up, had the front end lifted (like towed), hit a really bad pot hole, etc.
#4
Thanks Dell for all your interest
The work done on the car in the last 12 months has been, ECU replaced with clone, plugs, coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, new transponder ring, maf sensor, new starter solenoid, . Checked wiring , tests ok. Have a mongoose with 131.03, all modules display with green ticks except for the PAM module which has a red cross. I feel that a parking assist module should not interfere with ignition?? Have reset key transponder, run immobilisation program, no PATS light indicated, no spark evident, New Battery with powerpak for sdd eliminates any battery issues
Your post on the engine light disappearing early makes sense and explains why no spark
What to check next
Thanks again
John
The work done on the car in the last 12 months has been, ECU replaced with clone, plugs, coils, crank sensor, cam sensor, new transponder ring, maf sensor, new starter solenoid, . Checked wiring , tests ok. Have a mongoose with 131.03, all modules display with green ticks except for the PAM module which has a red cross. I feel that a parking assist module should not interfere with ignition?? Have reset key transponder, run immobilisation program, no PATS light indicated, no spark evident, New Battery with powerpak for sdd eliminates any battery issues
Your post on the engine light disappearing early makes sense and explains why no spark
What to check next
Thanks again
John
#6
Sorry for the prolonged delay, Im on call and the work flashed up over the last couple of weeks, and the car is in a shed a couple of blocks away so less than accessable at times of busy, The immobilizer switch is pushed down, has been for a long time, Is there a test to see if the immobilizer is good? Fuel pressure at the rail is good.
Just sounds like a break in the electrics with my gut feeling, just don't know how to approach it
Thanks
John
#7
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#8
serial no discrepancy in wds
Thanks everyone for their input
Dell, Ive checked the inertia switch OK, reset the alarm system via the door lock 4 times and no go to start.
I checked the modules with isd/sdd and they are all communicating and can be read by the computer with a nice green tick on the measurement application page.
I checked each of the modules and came across something interesting, The serial number for the ecu should end in AH, but as reported on the program
it ends in AP. This discrepancy in serial numbers, can it account for the ecu failind to write the vid when programming the module?
Has anyone else had a similar glitch?
Everything else on the car works except there is no spark, and the engine symbol on the dash disappears before starting, as I believe indicates an immobilizer fault.
As I am in the country getting to a dealer is out of the question
The drama continues
Thanks for your interest
John
Dell, Ive checked the inertia switch OK, reset the alarm system via the door lock 4 times and no go to start.
I checked the modules with isd/sdd and they are all communicating and can be read by the computer with a nice green tick on the measurement application page.
I checked each of the modules and came across something interesting, The serial number for the ecu should end in AH, but as reported on the program
it ends in AP. This discrepancy in serial numbers, can it account for the ecu failind to write the vid when programming the module?
Has anyone else had a similar glitch?
Everything else on the car works except there is no spark, and the engine symbol on the dash disappears before starting, as I believe indicates an immobilizer fault.
As I am in the country getting to a dealer is out of the question
The drama continues
Thanks for your interest
John
#9
When this current situation first happened was the car running fine, you shut it off and then when you tried to start it the next time nothing happened? If so, is it completely dead when you turn the key with no sound or is it cranking, but won;t fire? When you turn the key to position II can you hear the fuel pump running? Are you SURE the battery is good?
#10
Past history
Thanks alpha dude for your reply
when I got the car about 12 months ago it had a new battery and even though it was hard to start, when it did it started and ran fine. Being a little older I decided to improve the starting changing plugs and coils and filters and the car refused to start. I then changed the starter solenoid and got it working. After much deliberation I checked the voltage to sensors and found that the maf sensor was faulty. To try and restore spark I then changed the crank sensor and 1 cam sensor, again with no result
i called in a local mechanic with a scan tool who told me the computer was at fault, so I proceeded to get the ecu rebuilt and replaced again with no result. There was still no spark at the plugs even though the coils showed volts present. Have checked the inertia switch and Dells post concerning the CEL seems to have some merit as it disappears before starting indicating an immobiliser fault!
That fits the symptoms exactly
i have changed the transponder ring trying to get to the immobiliser problem
The car presently shows 2 abs codes, cranks but no start. Fuel pump is audible but no spark evident at plugs
Have checked fuses and swapped relays. As you can see the problem is a tricky one
The options to solve the problem seem to be getting slim
it just feels like it’s an upstream ignition problem
where to now?
Thanks for your interest
John
when I got the car about 12 months ago it had a new battery and even though it was hard to start, when it did it started and ran fine. Being a little older I decided to improve the starting changing plugs and coils and filters and the car refused to start. I then changed the starter solenoid and got it working. After much deliberation I checked the voltage to sensors and found that the maf sensor was faulty. To try and restore spark I then changed the crank sensor and 1 cam sensor, again with no result
i called in a local mechanic with a scan tool who told me the computer was at fault, so I proceeded to get the ecu rebuilt and replaced again with no result. There was still no spark at the plugs even though the coils showed volts present. Have checked the inertia switch and Dells post concerning the CEL seems to have some merit as it disappears before starting indicating an immobiliser fault!
That fits the symptoms exactly
i have changed the transponder ring trying to get to the immobiliser problem
The car presently shows 2 abs codes, cranks but no start. Fuel pump is audible but no spark evident at plugs
Have checked fuses and swapped relays. As you can see the problem is a tricky one
The options to solve the problem seem to be getting slim
it just feels like it’s an upstream ignition problem
where to now?
Thanks for your interest
John
#11
#13
Hallo jczaban
I recognised a lot in your story.
I have done more or less the same like you last 2 -3 weeks.
My car is a 2006 3 liter with 75,000 km. in good shape.
Just before I get crazy, I thought I bring the car with a trailer to a Jag specialist.
When i tow the car for 10 meters, I tried to start again. (the wife recommended) Guess what: it started.
??? reason still not known, but the car drives.
I hope this helps.
I recognised a lot in your story.
I have done more or less the same like you last 2 -3 weeks.
My car is a 2006 3 liter with 75,000 km. in good shape.
Just before I get crazy, I thought I bring the car with a trailer to a Jag specialist.
When i tow the car for 10 meters, I tried to start again. (the wife recommended) Guess what: it started.
??? reason still not known, but the car drives.
I hope this helps.
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