OK! Every body, Thermo, Paul; After fourth time disassemble and reassemble the engine of my X-Type to reset the timing, it still not start, and this time I'm sure it's not the mechanical timing but all those electrical ( or electronically) sensors fault codes, here what I found on my code reader,11 of them some are just the same:
P0102- MAF or VAF
P0112- IAT sensor 1
P0122- TPS Pedal position switch A
P0222- TPS Pedal position switch B
P0197- Engine oil temp.
P0340- camshaft sensor A bank 1 malfunction*
P1108- Fuel air metering
P1532- Idle speed control
P1549- Idle speed control
P1000
Except For P0340- camshaft sensor A bank 1 malfunction* all others said circuit current low input, would you guy tell me where are this sensors located? Obviously there are 2 camshaft sensors on each bank and they are the most responsible for the engine start up, but which one is the sensor A; the one on top of valve cover or the one in front on timing change cover?Beside camshaft sensor which one should I replace next because some of these codes just for the engine performing, and some might be gone when engine is running. And why is the Idle speed control had 2 codes P1532 and P1549? Are they two separate sensors? Give me estimate for all these sensors? Thanks guy.

 

Thang, Just to ask a silly qusetion, but is this the same engine that came out of the car? Did you do anything like change the wiring harness? The reason why I ask is you have a lot of sensor issues. For them to be all "low resistance" you would have to have a cable that is crushed somewhere and now the wires are all shorting together.

For reference, the starting of the engine is based on the crankshaft sensor, not the camshaft sensors. The camshaft sensors are there to let the engine know how much valve timing has been put into the car and to serve as a backup should the crankshaft sensor fail. The camshaft sensors have a single point that the sensor picks up with each revolution of the engine. Where the crankshaft sensor has 36 (35 teeth and then a blank spot so it know where TDC of the engine is).

So, for your current problem, you either have a crushed cable or potentially you have a cable bundle (maybe computer) from one generation of X-Type with all the other components of the other generation of X-Type.

 

Hi Thermo, After the engine got over heated, first time I remove the engine head, exhaust manifolds, oil pan to replace the gaskets, put it back together not start, scan the engine it give 11 codes, remove ECU box plan to send it to check, but Paul came and said it's timing might messed up, put ECU back. Second time just remove the covers to reset the timing, reset the timing third time as the instruction you send me, it's not start, even bought a used engine for $200 remove its cover to learn to set the timing from it, fourth times still not start, scan the engine it's give the same 11 codes; All these time I only pulled the plugs from those sensors, but never remove the wiring harness. For the code P0340 I'm sure the scanner said camshaft sensor A bank 1. Should I buy a complete new wiring harness? Could over heat burned those sensor? How to test those sensor? Thanks Thermo for replied.

 

Thank, to test he camshaft sensors, you simply pull the sensor out of the engine and with it sitting on a bench, you will connect up a multimeter (set to monitor DC volts, 2 VDC range). You will then pass a large metal object (large screw driver, piece of scrap steel, etc) near the tip of the sensor. If you see the multimeter jump, then the sensor is good. Using an analog meter is easier in this case. If you have a digital meter, hopefully it has an analog bar on the display.

The TPS is a simple resistance check. You measure the two sides of the TPS and they should be pretty much the same resistance. You can also manually operate the butterfly valve and you should see a smooth change in resistance across the range of operation. If you see it jumping around (ie, at some value, then going to an extremely high resistance, then back down, jump back up, returning), then that would indicate a TPS that is starting to go. But, based on what you are experiencing, this will not cause the car to not start.

As for a damaged wiring harness, I would run my hand between say the TPS and where it runs through the firewall. What you are feeling for is where the harness seems to feel different than other spots.

 

Hi Thermo, I have more questions for you:
I found two engine wiring harness on ebay; One was for 5 speed manual, is it any difference in this and automatic?
I took camshaft sensors out to test, turn the key on (not start the engine) check the terminals on the wire plugs, it didn't show any current, but the plugs for other sensor show current around 10,+ volt? I switched the sensors from left to right the code didn't change.
For throttle position sensor, the ear to install it on throttle body had the slots to wiggle it up and down, how to set it right position?
What is the IAT sensor and idle speed sensor where are they located?
Is any way to tell the ECU is broke or not working right?

 

Thang, the camshaft position sensor should not have any voltage on it. As the camshaft spins, it induces a voltage into the sensor and that gets sent to the ECU to be analyzed.

As for the wiring harness, there are differences as it relates to the tranny. So, odds are, without some major work on your part, the two are not compatible with each other.

IAT (Intake Air Temp). That is located on the top of the intake. Should be a little black box there.

As for setting the throttle position sensor. look on the sensor plug and you should see a yellow wire and an black/green wire. With the car in the RUN position, if you connect the red lead to the yellow wire and the black lead to the black/green wire, you should see a voltage of about 1.000 VDC (0.5 to 1.5 VDC). What you want to do is while watching the volt meter, adjust the TPS so you have just under 1.000 VDC (say 0.99 or 0.98 VDC). The closer to 1.000 VDC you can get, the better the throttle response. But, this also makes it that much easier to get an error code saying that the TPS is not fully shutting too.

As for telling that the ECU is working, this is beyond what most backyard mechanics have in their toolbox. You would need what is called a SDD/IDS computer. In short, this is a dealership level computer that you plug into the car and it looks far deeper into the car's computer systems than anything you can normally buy. You can find them on say e-bay, but plan on spending a few hundred dollars to get a decent one. Some will go up into the thousands. Depends on whether it comes with just the cable and software or if you are getting the whole computer. For the cost, you would probably be best off getting the car towed to a shop and having them put the car on a computer and have them tell you if the ECU is toast or not.

 

Thanks Thermo, I found a wiring harness on eBay for $150, is this right price for a used one? I will replace the wiring harness when it come, let's see what happen?

 

Thang, that is about the going price for one. Wish you luck and that things start working for you. Otherwise, based on the codes and replacing the wiring harness, that will pretty much leave you with needing an ECU.

 

While I'm at it my AC compressor is leaked, is it possible to fix the leak myself? It's leak at the cover plate right behind the clutch pulley. I attempt to take it apart and reseal with gasket maker, do you think it would work?

 

Thang, you need to look at what the gasket maker is resistant to. Freon oils are a different type of thing and it may eat through the gasket maker. Also, because you are breaking into the freon system, you are going to need to evacuate the freon system and then refill it. If you don't, the A/C system will not work properly, regardless of how much freon you put in.

 

Yeah, right now I'm play with the compressor, if it's not work I'll buy a refurbish one and the dryer, I got nothing to loose and to do now any way. it's been over a year now I didn't get to drive it: Sick!