Yes... I got that, thank you

But I was sort of hoping the maf would "upset" the 02 sensors.

Guess we will see.

It would be a quick help for me if someone has the right part numbers. For some reason here in France its really hard to find the right numbers vs the parts by itself.

 

Aah ok, I guess I responded to a non edited message.

Exactly what I was thinking!

thanks!

 

Post #2 & 3

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...umbers-110142/

 

Hello all.

MAF will arrive soon.

But I have another question.

The jag (since I drove it a few times) squeaks at the back from the shock absorbers.

It happens even when breaking or driving backwards.

They work fine, I have not really investigated it myself but is that a known problem with a possible fix.

 

 

When I had my X-Type and it did that it was the lower control arm and I also replaced the springs. By chance, are the tops of the tires on the rear canting in towards the center on the car? If so, then you definitely need to replace the front lower control arm.

 

If the rear suspension squeaks like an old spring bed, the fix could be as simple as a dab of grease between the emergency brake cables and the nylon bushings that support the brake cables where they pass thru the rear hub carriers, aka the lower, front control arms of the rear suspension. Follow the emergency brake cables from the rear brake calibers forward to where they pass thru the lower, forward control arms. The brake cable can squeak where it rubs on the nylon bushing. If that's the problem, a dab of grease will fix it. If not, let us know and we'll discuss how to isolate the noise.

Here's a post on the emergency brake cable squeak: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...eeky-bed-4047/

 

You sir, are a genius.

Indeed those made that noice.. However lying under the car not only that. So WD40 on them both.. and It will be ok for a while

The other noise came from rubbers (or the absence of) had I already mentioned the horrible garage I used before))

I sprayed those too, so they are quiet. But need to be replaced, surely.
If anyone has the proper numbers for me, would be great.

While being there decided to change the petrol filter too. That wasn't hard but the specific filter I received in a "set 3.0 v6" was a tiny bit thinner vs the one in it. Its is properly fixed now. But strange, that a UK supplier delivered me that. Don't think it'll be harmful??! But strange non the less.

 

C2S50863P

Mine were squeaking bad when I bought it. Particularly going very slow over a "speed bump". When I removed them, the bushings actually crumbled in my hand.

 

Thanks!

It looks like these will too..

Its ok for now. But Ill need to replace them soon.

Could I get away with these? or aren't these the under rubbers? Cant really see it well. But if I need both type of bushings it makes more sense buying the arm complete I guess.

 

Front of car when they go will be =

Left = C2S46699 Right = C2S46697

Accompanied by = C2S39552
When (not if) the rear upper control arms go tires are squatting. Search this forum for the adjustable retrofit by member "Thermo" to fit aftermarket non Jag arms that allow adjustable fix.

 

I looked at bushing replacement, but for the cost and difficulties with pressing them in and out, it was more economical and easy to replace the arm. It took probably 30 minutes. Just make sure you download the repair manual on the home page here under "stickies" to get torque specs SITTING ON THE GROUND, not lifted in the air to proper torque. This applies to the rear front lower arms. The fat thick ones.

 

Norbert: For the squeaky emergency brake cable, WD40 works for a while until it washes off. Thick grease last longer.

For the rear suspension, lower control arms, search for Mevotech part number MS101044 or CMS101044. They sell for ~$60 USD a pair, and some eBay vendors ship to France, such as this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replace...k&shqty=1#shId

For the rear suspension, upper control arms, Thermo identified control arms that are adjustable and replace the non-adjustable factory original version. They are described in this very popular thread, because excess negative camber (where the top of the tire leans in) is a common problem in our aging X-Types: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rol-arm-88530/

Search eBay or Google for " control arm adjustable (Mazda, Focus, Volvo) " . Here's an example of a $51 USD pair on eBay from a vendor who ships to France: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-...p&shqty=1#shId

 

thanks!!

Yes.. I know.. But WD40 is all I had now.

 

Well the MAF is in. ~Cruise control works, limp mode is not longer kicking in. So the car drives super! Thanks all for participating and finding this fault.

But I do get the 02 sensors fault almost directly.. Guess, I get it all in one go..

P1646 and P1647

So that together with the back arms and all will be the project of the coming weeks. At least the car drives again..

 

Dandy!

Make sure you read the forum posts (use search for your code numbers or O2 replacement and change all forums to just x type) and get some tips on O2 sensor replacement. There are a bunch of them here.

 

Norbert: Those error codes for P1646 (Bank 1 - Firewall side, Sensor 1 - Upstream) & P1647 (Bank 2 - Radiator side, Sensor 1 - Upstream) usually have little / no impact on engine performance. Their primary purpose is reducing air pollutants from a cold engine.

Oxygen sensors work best when hot, so O2 sensors have 4 wires: 2 energize the heating element, and 2 for the output signal / voltage that varies with O2 content in the exhaust gas. In hot engines, the O2 sensors are heated by exhaust gas, so the electric heating element is superfluous. In cold engines, e.g., during the first ~5 minutes, the O2 sensors are pre-heated by the electric heating element.

In older, 80-100+ K mile engines, P1646 & P1647 usually occur when the O2 sensor heating element has failed, like the "burnt out" filament in an old incandescent light bulb. The engine will run fine, but won't pass the annual inspection in most of the US because environmental regulations (and I presume most Europe MoT regs) require O2 sensors with heating elements to reduce emissions from cold engines.

 

It may drive but avoid driving it until those codes are fixed or you'll need one or both cats as well.