CV joint replacement
 

I'm the process of replacing both front halfshafts with new complete shafts. I've started on the passenger side (supposed to be the easiest). Everything is stripped down to the inner joint housing (pic below)

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q.../Jag/oldcv.jpg

The inner housing was cleaned so that the new shaft could be fitted.

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...innerjoint.jpg

The new shaft would not fit. The new triax joint is larger than the old one, so it will not slot into the housing. The new joint is the image on the right. You can see that it is slightly (about 2-3 mm) larger than the old joint (the image with the red grease showing). Notice that you can clearly see the Ford stamp (on the right side of the housing).

http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q...triaxjoint.jpg

The new drive shaft fits the hub OK, but it does not fit into the old inner CV joint housing. So, I tried to remove the inner housing and it won't come out. I reconnected the old, shaft complete with a new CV joint clip, and pulled on the driveshaft to remove it that way, but it still would not release from the gearbox diff.

I was then going to simply swap over the traix joints, but you can see that the central bearings have different inside diameters.

So, I'm stuck here with a new shaft that I can't get on. Does anyone have any ideas as to how I can remove the old inner housing (there is limited room for a price bar)? Or where to go from here?

Cheers.

Use a prybar or a proper tool to remove the CV Axle Shaft.

2 prybars side-by-side may help.
Jaguar issued special tools 307-443 and 307-442 to separate the splined joints.

ANY Japanese car repair shop is VERY familiar with the 'plug-in' type CV shafts.

Try tools like this.

eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

bob gauff

That looks like the left (driver's side). There really is not an easier way than getting a pry bar up in there and even that can be difficult. The Jag tool is heavy and awkward and usually broken. You definitely need to get that inner part out though. If you got complete shafts then you need to replace the whole thing. Rebuilders and manufacturers use different size stuff sometimes that doesn't always match OE stuff. Finally, just a general question, why are you replacing them?

Yes, it's the drivers side. I'm replacing them because when I move off from a standstill with some lock on the car, there is a loud clunking noise. This happens on both locks. This indicates CV joint wear. I didn't want them to fail on me when I was driving, so decided to change them; normally an easy job!

Maybe they didn't clunk that bad after all.

Can I ask what are the symptoms of a failing cv joint or drive shaft? I took my 05 xtype in to the dealership and described symptoms of what i thought was a failing cv joint, but they are telling me that it's my sway bar bushings and links. The symptoms i get is whenever i make a hard right turn, i can feel a slight "limp" or "jerk" until i straighten up the steering column. I dont want to get the wrong thing replaced. I really wish i could do this myself.

>it's my sway bar bushings and links.

What year and how many miles? The bushings and links do wear out and many of us have had them replaced in the last year because Jaguar started performing that repair under warranty.

I'd bet its the bushings...
================================================
Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons

I have an 05 xtype with 77k miles.

I just replaced the axles(had them rebuilt) on my daughters car 185K. Inner and outers for $45 each axle, and they picked them up and dropped them off. That part you left in should have come out too and that would have been replaced and new boots installed. You just pop outt he axle assembly and reinstall complete unit once rebuilt. xtype are very easy oin cv joints and until mileage gets up there we never see issues with them

Symptoms are usually (if there are no loose joints etc): moving off from a standstill with some lock on the car, there is a loud clunking noise. Check on both full steering locks.

^^clunking on straight accel is the inboard joints, on turns the outside ones. All the time, both joints and or theyre all really bad

bumping an old post
 

I've been researching everything I need to buy to restore my rear suspension components and abs/dsc issues and I came across this post.

If I give the throttle a good stab, there is a a loud clunk and an abrupt jerk, as if something in the driveline has too much play in it. After reading this, I'm beginning to suspect it is the inner joint on the half shaft. I was only planning on replacing the outers to fix the abs ring issue, but now it seems I should do full shafts. Could this be the source of the clunking?

I bet your clunking noise is actually the engine mount restrictor that attaches between the sub-frame and transfer case. They wear pretty quickly and allow the engine to rock back and forth making that noise. Part number is: C2S20858

The driver side c/v joint is pretty easy to change but I had to buy a slide hammer c/v joint attachment to get it to come apart. No amount of cussing and pry bars worked for me, but one little tap with the crows foot attachment was all it needed once I had the right tool. (got it for $20 on E-bay)

Wouldn't touch the passenger side if I were you as the shaft slides all the way through the transfer case and if you pull it out the c-clip on the trans end will probably damage the seal inside the transfer case and cause the trans fluid to leak into the transfer case.

I am talking about the rear, are you talking about the front?

My post was talking about the front, rear's are much easier to do.

Yes, once you mentioned the transfer case I thought you were addressing the front.

This is the part?: http://www.oemautopartsandaccessories.com/catalog/product/view/n/restrictor-c2s20858/v/jaguar-x-type-2004/vid/11867238

So the inner cv joint on the rear is unlikely to fail? As I mentioned, I'm only in the cv project to fix abs and traction control, I'd much rather put the money I'd save on the full axels towards new shocks and struts, but if there's the possibility that the clunk... ...I'd rather do the full in that case.

In the mean time I'll check out the condition of that mount, thank you for the advice

I'm sorry for the question everyone, but ima do this task on the weekend, want to gather all the tools I need, but what's the of the axle nut socket I need? N what else should I consider buying on tools for this task?