Help with car not starting...
 

Specifics on the car...

2002 Jaguar X-Type 2.5 Liter with 85,000 miles.

I just replaced the valve seals, spark plug boot seals, intake cover seals, new spark plugs and all new vacuum hoses, new water pump and gasket. Then due to my job I had to leave it and let it sit for a few months. Got home the other day, charged up the battery and started it up. Started fine, let it idle for 10 minutes, no problems and no leaks.

Took it for a road test, after about 2 miles and at 60 mph the vehicle just died. Pulled it over to the side of the road. Wouldl not shift into neutral. Had to force it to shift it. Turns over fine but will not start. Towed it home.

Broke out the OBDII scanner received the following code: P1780 and P1000. From what I've been reading it could be the TCM. Does this sound right? I know the P1000 is normal.

So just making sure before I spend more money on the car that I need to check the TCM for corrosion and if so, clean and/or replace?

Thanks for the help.

Have you looked at this pdf yet? http://www.bluejag.co.uk/Jaguar-XT-T...s/XT310-01.pdf

Also, double check your battery. Another member had the same code and it turned out to be the battery.

Any more ideas...?
 

Alright,

I've replaced the battery with a new one. No P1780 code, just P1000 code now but still won't start. Turning over fine but it's like it's not getting fuel to spark. Also the ECM area is beeping when I turn the key to off position. I hear it coming from the glove box, a fast beep...beep...beep...beep...beep for about 5 seconds then it shuts off. I've checked all the fuses and relays, they are all fine.

I also pulled the shifter and adjusted the J gate, that made the shifting more smoothly now and everything illuminates fine.

I also checked the TCM, it was not corroded at all and all connections looked good.

So now I'm think Neutral Safety Switch and if so where exactly is it located? My only other thought could be fuel pump or bad ECM.

I'm at a loss and this car is killing me. I rebuild muscle cars as a hobby and I've never ran into something like this.

It's not a daily driver so I've got time on it. Just tired of spending money on parts that are not the problem. Any help would be more than appreciated.

Longshot: Do you have a second key? In my xj8 I had similar issue. Somehow my transponder just stopped working.

Don't have a second transponder. I'm towing it to the dealership tomorrow to see what they can come up with. I'll let you guys know.

Dealership says fuel pump. $1300 for parts, labor and that included the original diagnostic. Pretty high but my only other option is to tow it back, remove the tank and do it myself and I'm done messing with this car.

Hi Dave333,
Would appreciate your update - when you have resolved the problem (new fuel pump)
I hope this truly is the cause of your woes.... but, do keep your chin up mate !!

That was it. That and a couple seals in the fuel pump area. They test drove it and it drove fine and I'll pick it up tomorrow. Thanks for all the help with the trouble shooting.

Did anybody ever have any luck in trying to reach the fuel pump w/o dropping the gas tank? I seem to remember someone talking about removing the back seat and/or cutting a hole in the floor of the trunk to reach the fuel pump access panel on the top of the tank. Did anyone ever actually attempt to do that?
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

I had read where you can cut a hole to reach it but using a cutter near a fuel pump is an accident waiting to happen so I figured I'd let the dealer get at this one. Running fine now.

Long rant...
 

Alright guys, if I could send this car to the crusher I would. As I was driving it home from the dealer, had a coolant hose go bad...I think. I'm in the process now of seeing if it was a hose or the radiator as a whole. When I put fluid in the reservoir it just runs out the bottom. So I have it on stands now and will have a friend pour water into the reservoir as I'm underneath (which will be enjoyable to say the least) to see which hose it is or where the leak is coming from.

When I picked it up from the dealer they said the shifter linkage is bad and requires a whole new shifter. Also the A/C condenser is leaking which has caused the whole dash to bubble up. I noticed this when I received the car. There is an oily film on the windshield, passenger side. Also the oil pan gasket is shot and needs replaced. Dealer costs for all of that are around $3,000.

So here's my rant. I've rebuilt Chevy 396's, Pontiac 400's, TH400 transmissions, Munci M21's and do all my own work on my current vehicles: 07 Mustang GT, 07 Charger SRT8, 06 Toyota Tacoma. I have never seen a car whose mechanical layout is so illogical. In order to remove the oil pan I will need to remove an exhaust piece and unless I'm wrong one of the bolts is unobtainable without removing the transmission. I inherited this car from a relative that passed away and my family told me to make sure it's road worthy and sell it. I'm now $2500 into this vehicle. When I received it the driveshaft was missing 2 bolts and the others were hand tight so I had to realign it, reseal and regrease it and tighten everything up with loctite. Then when doing the plugs (which is great that you have to remove an intake to get to them), I found the oil leaking in 1 & 2 banks so it was new seals all around. Then it was the door handles not functioning properly which required new plastic pieces (fix found on here...thanks guys). Then it was trunk seal allowing water into the trunk so whole trunk interior replaced.

I pulled the TSB's on this vehicle and they are monumental. I cannot believe that a vehicle with 90k miles would have this many problems. Previous owner may not have been great at maintenance upkeep but that is no reason for shifters to fail, fuel pumps to fail, a/c compressors to leak so bad that it ruins the entire dash, door pulls to fail and interior seals to fail.

I can understand the gaskets. Those are routine maintenance and at this mileage that's acceptable.

I guess Jaguar goes off of their name and the probability that most owners will trade in for the latest model when they arrive. Seeing as all the parts are Ford parts, I don't see what the allure is to Jaguar. The only upside to all the maintenance I've completed is the valve train looked great at 90k when I removed the valve covers to reseal.

I don't know how many members actually do their own maintenance on these X-types but they are a pain.

Sorry for the rant and to go off on Jaguar and X-types especially on a Jaguar forum but I cannot for the life of me show any love to this vehicle.

I will say thanks for all the answers and informative how to's on here. I'll throw some up on the radiator hoses with pictures as I replace parts.

Thanks.

Dave333,
As I've mentioned before (in the Forum) some folks treat their cars just like their Lawn Mowers.... in that that they only seem to do maintenance - when problems become evident and evolve into or need repair. You only have to look at some of the posted pics - to see evidence of that.
Sadly, some folks think they have all the required skill-sets, equipment and training - to perform the critical work themselves, but doing that badly and thus reaping the consequences later.

In this case of your great misfortune, perhaps the previous/original owner has done most of the damage for you - which you now have to deal with.

There are many here on this forum... that have relatively trouble free vehicles - providing they put that important upfront TLC into their charge, which and of course is all part of their particular Jaguar experience and enthusiasm.

I'm sorry to hear you are having such a bad time with this particular one.

Yeah I understand that. My Tacoma has been under my supervision since mile 298 and at 120k miles, the only thing that I've had to replace is a shaft seal at the transmission to driveshaft. It's had one small recall but other than that it's just been general upkeep.

I honestly think the problem with this vehicle is it's been abused and lived through it for so much that that when I started sealing things properly it really put pressure on the other seals that were already leaking and caused them to burst. I'm learning alot about Jaguars though so if one ever enters my shop I'll know what to do.

Thanks for the help.

>I'm learning alot about Jaguars though

Ya but, other than with the S-Type (i.e., the other Ford design) I'm not sure there really is much in common with other Jaguars... :-(
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar

^^^ Figures. Well the hose was the upper hose and it burst at the connector under the air intake. No big deal at all. 15 minute fix. Idled for 30 minutes fine, test drove and it's good to go.

Thanks for all the help guys.

My wife got an X Type and i can say man it's one thing after another with this car . My Maxima since mile 25k I have done all the maintenance I think the X Type she got follows the same sad story as the rest .

Well it just got better. I sold the car for less than I had in repairs in it, I'm fine with that. However, the day before the guy is coming to pick it up the upper hose burst at the connector between the upper and lower. I had to go to the dealership and get one since it happened on Friday. $170 for a hose. That's crazy. Even my wife's Dodge Charger SRT8's giant hose connection was only $60. I could have got it online for $90 but it wouldn't have been here in time for the guy to pick it up.

Anyways, replaced that hose which was another great engineering design. Had to remove the hood latch and battery to get to everything, then even still that water pump pulley was in the way. Took care of it all.

The guy picked it up, drove it from Atlanta to Florida without any problems at all. He said no vibrations, quiet at highway speed and temp stayed cool the whole time. I'm glad it's working well for him at least.

Won't be on these forums anymore. I'm not a Jaguar type guy, more a muscle car/truck type of guy.

Take care guys and thanks for all the info.

Dave333 - The oil pan is a pain, but there is a simple solution if your willing to take a risk. All of the oil pan bolts can be removed excpet for one. If you look at transaxle housing you'll see that it is blocking this one bolt. However, its only the "bolt housing" for the transaxle that is blocking it. You can grind or drill out this "bolt housing" section to get to the last bolt. I had the same problem. I cut this section out and cut a socket down to get to bolt. I believe there are other posts of people doing the same thing.

Sounds like you're a mechanical guy, so this shouldn't be a problem for you.

If you want to see a pic let me know, I'll jack the car up and take one. It's not a problem since I need to rotate the tires anyway.

Thanks but I sold the car. The intention from the beginning was to have the repairs done for resale. I didn't want to grind a bolt out on a car that was to be sold so that's why I didn't go that route. The guy that purchased it said it's been running fine and he drove it from Atlanta to Florida with no problems so seems like all the major problems that could be repaired was and as long as he keeps an eye on his oil levels he should be alright.

Thanks for the help.