Help Pls - X Type 08 - Limp mode!!!!
#1
Help Pls - X Type 08 - Limp mode!!!!
Just bought 2 days ago an 08 X Type with 153k on clock, full dealership servicing record. Today it went into limp mode on a short trip, engine cut out, rolled into layby with no engine/power steering. Sat and read book and said to drive to a dealer in limp mode. Restarted and full engine back, so drove home. I had was on way to get litre of steering fluid as had noticed the tank was below minimum. Have now topped up fluid. COULD very low Power Steering fluid cause engine management to click into limp mode - or no connection? URGENT advise sought. Its due service Thur, tmrw at a non jag garage, anything specific I should ask they look for? as management light is currently off.
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rjh, the low power steering level and the engine going into limp mode have nothing to do with each other. Just a coincidence.
As for your problem, you should have also gotten the check engine light. Get the codes read and see what they say. Odds are, you have a vacuum leak (throwing the P0171 and/or the P0174 codes). If you are getting the 2 codes I mention, then I would look at what we call the big 3. The IMT valves have an o-ring on them and this is known to fail with lots of miles on the engine. So, probably a good idea to get them changed if you haven't already (cheap part and quick to get done). The next item is the brake booster hose check valve failing. If you open the bonnet of your car and find the vacuum line going between the brake booster and the top of the engine, you will see a little "football" in the middle of the line. Rub it with your fingers and if you are getting some plastic dust from it, replace the piece as it is either failed or going to fail in the near future. The final thing to check is the PCV hose running next to the throttlebody. This will be the hose that is about 2CM in diameter that is there that runs into the intake. PUll off one end of the hose and look on the underside of the hose. Does it have a rip in the hose (normally occurs right where the hose goes over a support that is under the hose). If you have a smooth hose, it is a good idea to replace this hose with the redesigned ribbed hose. But, you should have the ribbed hose already based on the year car you have.
After this, I would say to run your ear near the engine in various spots to see if you can hear a vacuum leak. That may help you figure out what you are looking at needing done.
With all this being said, I am making an assumption it is a vacuum leak. It could be a few other things and that is where getting the codes read would help me narrow things down. Your local mechanic should be able to diagnose it in under an hour since you are taking it in anyways.
As for your problem, you should have also gotten the check engine light. Get the codes read and see what they say. Odds are, you have a vacuum leak (throwing the P0171 and/or the P0174 codes). If you are getting the 2 codes I mention, then I would look at what we call the big 3. The IMT valves have an o-ring on them and this is known to fail with lots of miles on the engine. So, probably a good idea to get them changed if you haven't already (cheap part and quick to get done). The next item is the brake booster hose check valve failing. If you open the bonnet of your car and find the vacuum line going between the brake booster and the top of the engine, you will see a little "football" in the middle of the line. Rub it with your fingers and if you are getting some plastic dust from it, replace the piece as it is either failed or going to fail in the near future. The final thing to check is the PCV hose running next to the throttlebody. This will be the hose that is about 2CM in diameter that is there that runs into the intake. PUll off one end of the hose and look on the underside of the hose. Does it have a rip in the hose (normally occurs right where the hose goes over a support that is under the hose). If you have a smooth hose, it is a good idea to replace this hose with the redesigned ribbed hose. But, you should have the ribbed hose already based on the year car you have.
After this, I would say to run your ear near the engine in various spots to see if you can hear a vacuum leak. That may help you figure out what you are looking at needing done.
With all this being said, I am making an assumption it is a vacuum leak. It could be a few other things and that is where getting the codes read would help me narrow things down. Your local mechanic should be able to diagnose it in under an hour since you are taking it in anyways.
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rjh39 (02-05-2015)
#4
#5
Thanks Thermo, was that for a Petrol or D vehicle, as mine is D ? Im not car savvey at all so Ive fwd your post to the local garage dealing who arnt Jag dealers. They reporting the filters have been in place for 30k miles and changing these may help issue. The AA guy found the wires to the sensor on fuel injector (?) were damaged from rubbing on engine cover, and once he cleaned off plug/senor and replaced, we drove it to the garage 8 miles away with no issue (he had reset the fault light) the codes are with the garage (see next post), AA suggesting it may have been just bad/dirty connection on senor? (ill post codes once I have them in my possession). All advise greatly appreciated
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rjh, from the sounds of things, your problem was a cylinder misfiring. Get the wires repaired to the one the AA Guy told you about and you should be golden.
The filters being in for 30K miles is probably not helping the issue, but it isn't causing it either. I would say if you haven't done a fuel filter recently, it would be a good idea and if the air filter has been in for 30K miles, it is due to be changed. Both are quick and easy things to get done.
As for the vacuum leak checks I mention above, those are for a petrol engine. NOrmally the diesel engines don't suffer from vacuum leaks. They are a little more forgiving in that department.
The filters being in for 30K miles is probably not helping the issue, but it isn't causing it either. I would say if you haven't done a fuel filter recently, it would be a good idea and if the air filter has been in for 30K miles, it is due to be changed. Both are quick and easy things to get done.
As for the vacuum leak checks I mention above, those are for a petrol engine. NOrmally the diesel engines don't suffer from vacuum leaks. They are a little more forgiving in that department.
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