Hood Latch and Fuel Filter;Quality Parts
#1
Hood Latch and Fuel Filter;Quality Parts
Anybody can recommend a good online source to buy a Hood Latch. I'll be following ChrisFix method of changing mine has completely popped off and the bonnet and is missing the center hood catch and if you've had a bad experience with any particular company? I am looking to change my fuel filter as well. Any brands you can recommend as well Bosch or Mann Filter which is better. Thanks, Cheers!
Attached below is the missing Hood Catch and Fuel filter how does the filter look the bolts look rusted if anyone knows the size and I can pick them up beforehand
Attached below is the missing Hood Catch and Fuel filter how does the filter look the bolts look rusted if anyone knows the size and I can pick them up beforehand
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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daniel, as for the hood latch, I would find a wrecking/recycling yard and get the hood latch from there. Before you put it on, you may want to take a little time and straighten out the metal support. Should make installing the new latch a little easier.
As for the fuel filter, I always bought what was at the local auto parts store and never had anything bad happen. I don't recall what I bought. I want to say that it was WIX. Just remember that you will need the special tool to release the fuel filter retaining clips. If you are not familiar with what I am talking about, the local parts store will have one. You put the tool over the line with the 2 C extensions towards the filter. You then slide the tool towards the filter and push it into the filter until you feel the tool slide in another fraction of an inch/few millimeters. Keeping pressure on the tool (pushing towards the filter). you can then pull on the fuel line and it should slide out.
As for the fuel filter, I always bought what was at the local auto parts store and never had anything bad happen. I don't recall what I bought. I want to say that it was WIX. Just remember that you will need the special tool to release the fuel filter retaining clips. If you are not familiar with what I am talking about, the local parts store will have one. You put the tool over the line with the 2 C extensions towards the filter. You then slide the tool towards the filter and push it into the filter until you feel the tool slide in another fraction of an inch/few millimeters. Keeping pressure on the tool (pushing towards the filter). you can then pull on the fuel line and it should slide out.
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#5
I’m currently changing my fuel filter and I got the blue tabs off the current line but the other plastic tabs both have broken off when I went to press and release them. Any ideas how to get the filter off from here?
#7
Okay this has been an ongoing battle for quite some time and now I’ve torn the bushing for the hood latch cable. I’m going to order two hood latches. I’ll try it see how it works has anyone either not had any latches at all and just have the emergency latch so the hood won’t fly open or have another mechanism that works for them and did some retrofitting?
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#9
Now I bought and fitted two new hood latches and a new cable there is no question about the cable or latch itself. Both will operate correctly when closed manually and open with the lever. Now I just read a forum linked below. I have very similar issue when the hood is closed the passenger side has a larger gap then the driver side and the hood sits about a few mm high. I adjusted the grip mechanism that is supposed to be caught by the latch itself and made it deeper. Still, the hood won't open I will also link below pictures.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-flush-60051/ Post #11
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-flush-60051/ Post #11
#13
I’m going to include these obviously looks like someone took the hood off and rebolted them and didn’t align them correctly unless otherwise also the radiator support is pushed onwards toward the air box which will be need to be straighten out.
Is the front bumper crash bar able to be removed about few mm’s away from the air condenser and This one is toast...
Is the front bumper crash bar able to be removed about few mm’s away from the air condenser and This one is toast...
#14
#15
Post in another forum =
First check rubber bumper stops. If too high they will stop the hood too high. To adjust, remove the rubber tops, screw in or out to correct height, re-install rubber. Those laches with the cables are a serious pain. The latches actually are supposed to grab those "bars" and pull them down. If there is too much slack in the cable it just grabs it but doesn't pull it down. The cable runs across from the drivers side latch. Losen the set screw and pull all the slack you can out of it. That's what I did. It takes some trial and error trust me but you should be able to get it. You might have to tinker with both latches to get it to lie flat. That's all I can remember from that job. Oh yeah don't get it so tight to where you snap the cable because it is so hard to latch it completely. It should lie flush not negative of the rest of the car.
First check rubber bumper stops. If too high they will stop the hood too high. To adjust, remove the rubber tops, screw in or out to correct height, re-install rubber. Those laches with the cables are a serious pain. The latches actually are supposed to grab those "bars" and pull them down. If there is too much slack in the cable it just grabs it but doesn't pull it down. The cable runs across from the drivers side latch. Losen the set screw and pull all the slack you can out of it. That's what I did. It takes some trial and error trust me but you should be able to get it. You might have to tinker with both latches to get it to lie flat. That's all I can remember from that job. Oh yeah don't get it so tight to where you snap the cable because it is so hard to latch it completely. It should lie flush not negative of the rest of the car.
#16
Thanks Dell unfortunately I’m still waiting for SNG on special leads to ship so it’ll be a week for now but my latches arrived today so I worked on it now. I don’t have any rubber stops they just rusted shut and are junk so while I wait for them the passenger side unlocks but my driver side is still not unlatching.
#17
#18
Hahaha agreed The right is new and I’m going to grab those 3M headlight restorer kits and sand the headlight down and see how it comes out
#20
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