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Is there any option to the positive cable?

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Old 10-05-2013, 09:26 AM
Spikepaga's Avatar
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Default Is there any option to the positive cable?

Hey guys, my battery light has been coming on for a while, I was relieved to learn that it's typically just the positive cable, and surely enough, mu positive cable get EXTREMELY hot.

I was not as relieved to see the cost for a new cable, its not terrible at 100.00, but I had planned to use the 2 gauge kind they sell at the auto store, but that would mean I would have to use a separate cable to run from the starter to the alternator since the Jaguar one goes for the post to the starter, then splits from the starter to the alternator, my solution would be to run one cable from the post to the starter, then run another cable from the starter to the alternator.

Any ideas?

Thanks !!
 
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:41 AM
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Spike, you got a big pair of vice grips or channel locks? What I would tell you to do is to go and pick up the $15 cable from the auto parts store. Cut the lug off of the end that would bolt to the starter, take a new connector and put the battery cable and a new cable that would run to the alternator. Crimp it down and then put a lug on the other end of the alternator. Should be able to get it all done for $30.

Worst case, if you have a propane torch, you can simply slide the cable into the connector, crimp it down a little (if desired) and then you use the torch to heat up the connector and then you add solder till the connector is full. Obviously, the more wire you can put into the connector, the quicker it will fill up with solder. From there, you can put some heat shrink (I would recommend some Raychem-750 or Raychem-1000) over where the wire meets the connector. That way, no water will get into the connection and start it corroding.

Since I mentioned the raychem, this is great stuff when working on automobile electrical. I say that because this has a heat sensitive glue on the inside if the heat shrink and as you shrink it, the glue becomes molten and it will seal the heat shrink to whatever it is touching. This way, no water can get in. No water, no corrosion. No corrosion, the likelihood of a failure drops.

If you are worried about the Raychem not surviving the underhood conditions, DON'T!!!!! I use it at work to survive a nuclear catastrophe. I don't think the conditions under the hood of your car are that bad.
 
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