I just wonder which oil filter is good for x.

K&N
Mann
Bosch
Fram
Motocraft
Oem
etc....

 

I've used all the above except Mann and can't say that I've ever had a problem, not that I really expected to.

Years ago some guy did a semi-formal study of oil filters and posted it on the www. Fram was bad-mounted pretty bad. I've used Fram for decades and never felt I had an engine wear problem...but its pretty hard to tell without scientific testing. With a little Googling I'm sure you can find some recent write-ups on filter comparisons.

I usually use genuine OEM on my Jags. No particular reason other than a little bit of the "feel good" factor. For ordinary cars I use whatever brand name is on sale that day.

You'll probably get a whole slew of opinions on this

Cheers
DD

 

I used fram for years. Never had a problem, knock on wood. Been using it since 1980 to be exact.

 

I used Mann for years and years on my Saabs (it was factory filter at one point). No problems.

Now I use K&N because I like the welded nut on the top.

 

I've always used Jag filters..peel off the paint on one and you'll see it's made by Mann..

I was looking the other day at the Purolator Pure1... it has a rough textured coating, seems that would be easy to get a grip on to install or remove...I like K&N's design with the nut welded on the bottom too.

FRAM is junk IMO..had a few in my time that blocked oil flow, new out of the box...thank God for bypass flow systems.

What Makes A Good Filter?
Engine oil filter have one purpose in life: to filter out the particles that enter the oil so that they don't act as abrasives when the oil recirculates. The filter is a cellulose (paper) or synthetic media that is usually contained in a steel can. The front of the can typically has a threaded center with surrounding holes. Oil enters through the surrounding holes, passes through the filter media, and exits through the threaded center. The filters usually screw right onto the engine block using an o-ring gasket to prevent leakage. Many filters have an anti-drainback valve to prevent dirty oil from backwashing back into the oil pan. They also have a pressure relief or bypass valve that will allow oil to bypass the filter element in the event that it becomes too plugged to pass enough oil. This prevents engine oil starvation and the possibility of destroying the element, allowing pieces of it and the junk it filtered to enter the engine. Also, when the oil is cold and very thick, it will tend to bypass the filter through the pressure relief valve because it cannot pass through the element until it thins out somewhat. If it did not do this, the filter element media would tear open.
A good filter has a strong steel can to withstand the high oil pressure (60-80psi when cold), an anti-drainback valve that actually works without creating too much backpressure, a pressure relief valve that doesn't leak, and a strong paper element and cap that can with stand the pressure and flow of oil without falling apart. The element media has to be able to trap small particles, but without restricting the flow too much. Cellulose (paper) media is used on economy filters and works OK. The fibers in the paper acts as a mesh to block particles down to a certain average size, while allowing the oil to pass through. Some manufacturers add other media, such as cotton, to the cellulose to improve its performance. There is synthetic fiber media for the high-end filters that has smaller passages to trap smaller particles, but can pass more fluid through it because it has more of them. There is also media that is a blend of these two. There are also "depth" filters that are usually made of synthetic material that has a passage size gradient to it. In other words, the deeper into the element the oil goes, the smaller the passages get. This way, large particles are trapped in a different spot than small particles, which allows the filter to hold more particles before it "blocks" (becomes too restrictive).
All filters have to undergo SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) tests to prove that they meet the engine manufacturer's requirements. The SAE J806 test uses a single-pass test, checking for contaminant holding capacity,size of contaminant particles trapped, and ability to maintain clean oil. As an amendment of the J806 test, the multi-pass test also looks for filter life in hours, contaminant capacity in grams, and efficiency based on weight. The efficiency of the filter is determined only by weight through gravimetric measurement of the filtered test liquid. Typical numbers for paper filter elements are 85% (single pass) and 80% (multi-pass). A new test, the SAE J1858, provides both particle counting and gravimetric measurement to measure filter capacity and efficiency. Actual counts of contaminant particles by size are obtained every 10 minutes, both upstream (before the filter) and downstream (after the filter), for evaluation. From this data filtration ratio and efficiency for each contaminant particle size can be determined as well as dust capacity and pressure loss as a function of time. Typical numbers for paper element filters are 40% at 10 microns, 60% at 20 microns, 93% at 30 microns, and 97% at 40 microns.

 

I buy the Walmart brand (#3600), and also use their brand of 5-30 synthetic oil. Both of these products are made by major manufacturers for sale under the Wlamart name. Besides, I change my oil every 4,000 miles or so and have had no problems when changing with this frequency. Save yourself some $$. Both of these products meet the specs.

 

well...I guess there are not much differences among them....after all....right?

 

If I didn't have 3 filters left from my dealer giving them to me..I would be buying a WIX

O'Reillys sells them

 

I just stick to what's OEM . WIX's a great brand too

 

Merry Christmas to you Caddy my ole friend..hope you have a wonderful new year too..

 

I use a Mobil 1 oil filter and then Amsoil 5w-30.I select the Mobil 1 because of the synthetic filtering media used andwell built cansiter construction. Mann's are good as well...I have used them and Mahle's on my Porsches.

WIX is a quality brand that has been around for a longt time as well.

 

Thank you my dear great friend Dennis
Hope, this ain't your best xmasand new year yet

 

I agree with you on the WIX brand. I had a 1998 BMW 740i that I used Castrol Syntec and a WIX filter in, and even after 2000 miles, the oil still looked like honey. Car had 198,000 miles on her too. It wasn't a screw on set up either, so not sure if that made a difference.

 

I use either the Motorcraft or Pureone filters.