Please help 2003 XType 2.5
 

Hello everyone!
So I purchased this jag for a good price long story short it appears the heads are rebuilt re surfaced cleaned whatever they do to them they look good new head gaskets it looks like they put new coil packs?? The throttle body looks replaced as well.. It's a 2.5 the issue I'm having is keeping it running as soon as it turns over it dies. I have checked fuses all sensors looked either new or replaced. I was thinking fuel pump but checked the line and it had fuel good pressure id say. If anyone has any input I can try it'd be greatly appreciated I shall buy a owner manual thanks guys in advance

Could be anything
 

Does it start, then sputter out? If so my guess would be a vacuum leak in one of the many hoses. Look for cracks in the lines leading from the booster to the top of the intake . Also the main hose from the intake to the valve cover. Also check all your plugs ,map sensor, or mis connected wires.
Good luck and let us know,
The Dr!

It turns over and dies almost instantly.. The only way I can get it to stay idol by spraying starting fluid in tb :x! Not proud of it but it would stay Idoling for a couple seconds and die. I was thinking and reading it might be the fuel pump I just don't know someone help before I screw it up. Do you know how to read the freeze frame data?
Freeze frame data
Trouble code p1224
Abslt tps(%) 100.0
Engine speed (rpm) 0.0
Calc load (%) 69.9
Maf(lb/m)0.00???????
Map("hg) 27.
Coolant (•f) 88
Iat (•f) 93
St ftrm1(%)0.0
St ftrm2(%)0.0
Lt ftrm1 (%)0.0
Lt ftrm2 (%) 0.0
Vehicle speed 0
Fuel pressure (psi) 57
Fuel system -open

Fuel pressure might be high because I was trying to prime it to get gas in the damn cat thanks for replying!

Webe, if you can make the car run on starter fluid, then that is almost garanteed to be a fuel pump issue. If you have no spark, the car wouldn't run at all. If the timing was off (ie, jumped a tooth on the timing chains for example), then again the car could possibly run, but would do so on starter fluid or gas/petrol too.

The code you are showing P1224 is Throttle Position Sensor B Out Of Self Test Range

First thing you should check is the two connectors that plug into your throttle body, (one on the side and one on the bottom) it's very easy to break them when you take off the intake manifold if you're not paying attention. From the code you've got I wouldn't be surprised if that's the problem.

Thanks guys for your input I've checked those sensors they look fine no gunk around them still can't get started I'm going to start the tear down to get to the fuel pump I will let u guys know in the next couple days

hmmm
 

I am wondering if the throttle body that may have gone bad. Is there any codes?

hey everyone quick update I didn't take the fuel pump out, I ran through the tb one last time checked sensors made sure they were plugged in correctly made sure the battery was charged to %100 and I got the girl to turn over come to think of it might been a noob move but anyways first time since I bought her what a great feeling hearing her purr. quite rough but got her running! okay so now here come the codes
p0304 cylinder 4 misfire
p1316
p0354 ignition coil D primary/secondary circuit malfunction
p1000
c1145
p1224
p1229

Webe, the rough idle is because of #4 cylinder (cylinders next to engine, middle cylinder) having a misfire condition. I would say to access the #4 coil and see what you find. It may very well be possible you have some oil in the cylinder or the plug has gotten fouled. Worst case, if you don't find a smoking gun (ie, obvious problem), I would say to swap the #2 coil (if looking at the engine when standing in front of the car, it will be the nearest cylinder on your left side) and the #4 coil. If the problem moves, then you can easily access the #2 coil and replace the coil with a new one. If the problem remains with #4 cylinder, then you have a bad plug (would probably recommend cleaning the plug while you have it out during the initial checks) and/or the wiring to the coil is damaged (a visual of the wiring should lead you to a problem there (again, one of those things that if you are there during the coil swap, wouldn't hurt to do it then).

Based on the other codes, your throttle position sensor seems to be messed up. For that, I would say to pull the sensor off of the throttle body and then connect a multimeter to the two pins. Then, using a screw driver, you can slowly rotate the sensor internals 90 degree and you should see the resistance on the multimeter slowly go up. If you see the resistance as either a very high value (ie, more than 10K ohm) with the sensor in the engine off state, then that would be a sign that you have a bad TPS). Doing a visual of the pins will also be a good check to make sure that they have a shiny, silver appearance, not a gray/dull look or look like they are rusted. Worst case, take a small jeweler's screw driver or a scribe and scrape the pins to return them to a shiny silver appearance.

Finally, if you have the ABS light, it is because your right front wheel speed sensor is failed and you will need to investigate that. For the moment though, that is the least of your worries. We can deal with that once you get the car running around the block.