The hose breaks on that Tee, so I was thinking getting some webbing and some JB Weld and put it back together. If you sand down the joint you're going to be putting it on, then put down the JB weld with the webbing I bet ya it will hold, I mean hell it's only 15 psi. I just replaced my upper hose, paid 120 for it and then I put it in. But, if I had to do it again I just might do it this way.

 

I had the hairline crack across top of plastic T. I roughed it up a bit with sandpaper and JB Welded it, but 4 months later it's now leaking again. The hose on driver side that connects to T also seeps endlessly, even after I added an additional clamp. Can't wait to change the whole thing next week!
Has anyone thought about or used a gasket dressing where thermo housing meets block?

 

Hey Bracester....What parts did you by from Jagbits? I'm looking on their page and all I see is the thermostat housing with thermostat, but that isn't $130. What is this T connector you speak of? Thanks.

 

Jaguar RADIATOR HOSE, UPPER, INCLUDES THERMOSTAT - C2S43430

 

Maybe I'm getting lazy...maybe I'm getting old...I don't know, but I've read all the posts on this subject and have made my decision. I'm just gonna let the pros take care of it. I got a quote from the place I go to replace the entire assy. and the O2 sensor under the air box for $288 out the door. As much as I like doing things myself when I can, I just changed out all my A/C parts and don't feel like tearing things apart again.

Once again, this forum is great help (whether helping to fix...or helping to make up my mind)!!

**Edit** Just to be fair, I'm providing the O2 sensor. I already bought it, but then realized if the upper hose assy. needs to be replaced, I might as well do both or none. Again, I choose none this time.

 

New to this forum and getting ready to tackle this job. I found this link which has a good write-up on the procedure.
jaghelp.com: How to change the upper radiator hose on your X-type

Not sure if it's leaking, but it seems for the price, once I'm in there, it might be good to replace the water pump as well.

Rob

 

I was given a quote of $795.00 from a jag dealer to replace the upper radiator hose assembly. Work is not covered by my warranty company. The part cost $127.00 and the rest is tax and labor. The dealership charges $106/hr for labor. That comes to around 6 hours of work. To me that shoulda like a really long time for that work. Am I being unrealistic in my thinking?

 

My car is a 2005 jaguar X type with 64,000 miles

 

I haven't got the video posted that shows you how to get the upper radiator hose off, yet. But it's pretty simple. Don't mess around with trying to get it off from above, take off the lower shield and access the bolts from the bottom, way easy (I wanna say they're 13 mm bolts). Make sure you drain the system, you can access that from the lower hose. Also, at the bottom of the upper hose, where it attaches to the lower hose, there's about a 2 inch hose that you have to remove before you can take the upper hose off.

Make sure on your new hose to clean the mating surface of the block really well and the hose itself, then apply some good sealant before you put it on. Put it on there and give it 24 hours to dry, then fill the system with anti-freeze.

 

A tech at the dealer should be able to do this job in 2 hours max. It took me with medium skill level 5 hrs start to finish, but I took my time, wasn't in a hurry, stopped and ate a sandwich, etc... Also, as Justice said, use gasket sealer on the final flange assy. Let it dry 24hrs, etc.

 

I just replaced the T hose with thermostat. It took me around 4 hours - I have not mechanic skills. I didnt have to remove the plastic guard from the bottom of the car to do this. I also did not have the appropriate tools but, I was able to get the screws off the lower part of the base of the T that attaches to the engine block. It was a pain.
One note:
You will have to be careful and do not push or harm the cooling fans or the radiator. My radiator has a crack on the plastic side part on one of the fan support clips. It had it before and it was leaking slowly. Now that the T has been replaced the pressure has normalized and the leak on that part of the radiator has increased. I ordered a new radiator just to not deal with it by using JB or any other product on a monthly basis to patch it. Just do not put any pressure on the radiator fans as I found myself hitting it quite a few times.

 

Here's the second video,

.

I say, "All right guys" a lot, sorry about that. If anyone needs information on how to correctly bleed the system email me and I'll send it to you. I hope this helps anyone who's doing this job…

 

Hellllllllllllllp! The X-Type has these plastic hose fittings/clamps that I have never seen before. I cannot get the lower hose fitting/clamp off, even with the radiator out of the car, and even after removing the wire clip...and I have also been unable to RE-insert the wire clip back into the other, identical, plastic fitting.
I have spent three hours, wiggling, persuading, pulling, gently prying on the plastic, spraying penetrating oil and WD-40, and looking on the net. There is NOTHING on the net that shows people how to deal with these clamps, including Alldata and all the Jaguar forums, and iatn.
You would really be helping people a lot if you would tell us EXACTLY how to get the lower plastic fitting/clamp off the bottom of the radiator, and also how to RE-insert the wire that holds the clamp together. If you post pics, you would do the world a great favor, but that's is a bit of work, so ANY reply would be greatly appreciated! -Scotty in Sacramento

 

First, I got a tip to spray the joint with SILICONE spray...and as soon as I read that, it made perfect sense, because you do not use petroleum or lithium lubricants on plastic, you use those on metal connections.
I used a non-metallic striking tool against the lip of the plastic coupler and also tapped the other edge with a non-metal tool, and the coupler came right off in two seconds flat!
As to the wire retaining clip, I had been fooled by working in poor lighting. When that clip is installed, you cannot see it, except for its tip, which you use to pry it out of the coupler. So in the bad light I had, this I-never-saw-this-before coupler looked like it has the clip running between coupler and the hose nipple (under the coupler). That is not true. The wire retainer runs outside of the coupler, but is sunk into a protruding groove, so you don't see 99% of it. It's very easy to slip it over the outside of the coupler. I checked my work by reinstalling the now-siliconed coupler and trying to pull it off, and it's perfect. Lesson learned, and thank you to everybody.

Now all I need is a photograph of the torched and bent tool that someone used to successfully remove that one engine oil pan bolt that no one can reach on V-6 X-Types. There are a million forums on the subject, but the people who made the special tools were only almost successful in getting that bolt removed and saving several days of work, apparently, when you read all their comments to the end.

 

awesome video thanks for sharing

 

Great prices and quick shipping. Autohausaz.com

I just did this on my 09

 

 

If my memory is correct, the C-plate is a piece of steel that goes over the plastic flange where it bolts to the block. I'm not sure if the plastic alone, especially with just the 2 opposing bolts, is going to be stong enough to keep the gasket sealed up between the thermo housing and the block, especially if you reused that square gasket. If you did reuse it ( it does not come included with a new thermostat, you need to buy that upper "hose" (as it is listed as), or plastic pipe.), you absolutely want to also reuse that steel C-plate, or else your seal will most certainly fail before too long. I reused both (also used permatex) and got about a year from it before I got leaks from a half dozen separate places. BTW, there is an aftermarket upper pipe, or hose, that is made of steel, since the plastic one is notorious for splitting a crack lengthwise. Very poor construction, opt for the steel one if ya can still find it online.