Jaguar X-Type 2004, 2.5L, AWD

This is about 2 problems I found on my brakes - the first one would probably only possibly apply, if someone meddled big time with the calipers before, but the second problem (cracks in brake-line rubber-hose could be something more common...

I had not planned to meddle with my rear brakes again, as I had taken them apart to replace all brake caliper seals not too long ago. But currently I am about to remove my transmission - to do so, I have to remove the prop(eller)-shaft (easy to remember, which one that is: That’s where you would attach the outboard-motor propeller on the X-Type, after you have converted it into an amphibious car… ).

To remove the prop shaft on the X-Type standing on 4 stands (=all wheels in the air), I have to remove 12 Allen-key-size-6-bolts. This should not have been any issue, with the handbrake (= emergency brake) engaged, but it was: The prop-shaft was turning when I tried to open the bolts – the prop shaft turned, because one rear wheel was able to turn… But that should not have been possible with the handbrake engaged… It was only because of that special circumstance that I figured out that the handbrake locked only the right rear wheel, but not the left rear wheel. Normally I would never have noticed that – also, the car just passed the rego check without problems. And that would be dangerous in an emergence situation, when your brakes do not work, and you are quick-thinking enough to pull the emergency brake: With the emergency brake stopping only the left rear wheel, I would have entered a clockwise spin, and would possibly have flipped the car, too... So having a proper working emergency brake is quite important.

But I luckily figured out quite quickly, what my issue was – it was actually of my own making…:

The problem was: When I replaced all the seals of the caliper I tried to dismantle the caliper as much as possible, hence, I also had the "lever" removed. When I put it back on, I placed it one tooth-width (there are tiny teeth on the bracket under the screw) too much clockwise. Due to that the brake cable could not engage the emergency brake on the left side. Also note: During reassembly put the spring into position FIRST, and only then rotate the bracket into position to fit the 2 bolts (would be quite difficult to fit the spring afterwards).


So that is what it looks like correctly assembled. Very hard to see the difference compared to the 1mm incorrect position before. One should actually expect that the parts are made to make an incorrect assembly impossible...


After re-assembly of the brake caliper to the car with those two 13mm bolts, this is how I pulled the cable into the lever. At least I did not forget to feed the cable/grommet thru the bracket, but it might have been even easier, if I had positioned the cable before fitting the two 13mm bolts...


AND THIS IS THE OTHER VERY WORRYING FAULT I FOUND: CRACKS in the brake-line rubber-pipe (see also on the second picture from the top). I ordered two new rubber-brake-lines: C2S46537 - and if it helps: It looks like 2202699, H621492 and C2S4684. are different P/Ns for the same thing. My first thought was that a burst pipe would mean an immediate loss of brakes, but I think that it would mean "only" an immediate loss of the left rear brake, and hopefully you'd notice that something is wrong before you have lost sufficient brake fluid to render all hydraulic brakes on the car without function...


And just in case you ever see a need to adjust the hand-brake: This can be done under the car, above the prop-shaft, behind the centre-prop-shaft-bearing.

So have a look at your rear brake-line hoses.

And if you want to be sure that your hand-brake operates both your rear wheel-brakes...: It would be quite inconvenient to disconnect the prop-shaft, just to see, if your hand-brake has an effect on both rear wheels. I could only suggest to lift up both rear wheels, remove both wheels and watch the lever-action, while someone engages and releases the hand-brake. If you are confident that on both sides there is only a minimal distance between the lever and the "hydraulic brake line brass connector" while the hand-brake has been released, it should be fine.
Another test method I could think of: one rear wheel jacked up, hand-brake on, and see, if the wheel turns - first on one side, then jack up the other side and check there. Obviously, it would not turn much, even if the hand-brake would not engage, as the prop-shaft would stop major movements, even if you put wheel-blocks on the wheels and shift out of P (without engine running). But if you could turn the wheel on each side just a little with the hand-brake engaged, this would be a worry.

PS:
I remembered now, what the probably easiest way would be to check, if someone meddled with your rear brake caliper before, removed the lever there and put it back on in the wrong position:

This "gap-check" is obviously for when the hand-brake has not been engaged. When the handbrake is engaged, the gap should be about the same on both sides.

And talking about brake safety:
The obvious considerations are to check that neither the thickness of the rotors (=brake disks) nor the thickness of the brake pads are below minimum.
And considering the age of the X-Type now, it might be worth thinking about swapping all the caliper rubber seals (just like basically all rubber parts on the car.)