X not starting....Help
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#2
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Maximum, based on the codes that you are getting, I would tell you to open up your hood and look at the area under the brake booster. You should see a wiring bundle there. Do a hand over hand of that wiring bundle looking for any damage to it. From the sounds of things, something has pinched that cable and you have a few wires that are getting shorted together. In short, your throttlebody is not getting the correct signal to partially open it to keep the car idling.
Now, when you say that the car will not start, are you meaning that the engine will not turn over or are you meaning that the engine will roll, but it doesn't seem to fire? This changes things significantly.
Now, when you say that the car will not start, are you meaning that the engine will not turn over or are you meaning that the engine will roll, but it doesn't seem to fire? This changes things significantly.
#4
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maximum, I want you to try something. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position (do not take to the START position). HOld it there for a few seconds. Now, attempt to start the car. Did the engine try to fire or actually run for a little bit? If so, you have a bad fuel pump. But, based on what you were describing with the codes, it is sounding more like a wire bundle that has gotten damaged. Since the engine will fire some, that is telling me that the ECU is good.
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maximum, well, then, if you have fuel, you have power to the ECU, you have the timing (barring both of your timing chains breaking, but then, you would be fearful of starting the motor due the noise that this would make), all you have left is spark. This points back to either a bad ECU or a wiring issue (where I pointed out earlier). I doubt your fuse for the coils is blown as that would be resulting in lots of tranny codes due to lack of information.
#7
I checked the wires, they all look ok ! almost seems like its flooded ? when it first happened, there was miss fire codes, then after disconnecting the battery overnite, and trying to start it, I got the codes above, after trying over and over to start it the battery is dieing faster each time !
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#8
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maximum, are you putting the battery on a charger between times of repeated cranks? If not, that is why.
On a side note, If you think you have a fuel injector that is causing your issues (which is what would be flooding the car out), you can press the gas pedal to the floor when you attempt to start the car. This will force the computer to shut off the fuel injectors (contrary to what you would think). This will allow you to push the gas out of the engine and hopefully that will allow the engine to fire. If that does, then you have a problem in trying to figure out why you are getting too much fuel into the car. That will be a hit and miss with figuring out which fuel injectors to replace without creating a test rig to plug the injectors into and testing their flow.
On a side note, If you think you have a fuel injector that is causing your issues (which is what would be flooding the car out), you can press the gas pedal to the floor when you attempt to start the car. This will force the computer to shut off the fuel injectors (contrary to what you would think). This will allow you to push the gas out of the engine and hopefully that will allow the engine to fire. If that does, then you have a problem in trying to figure out why you are getting too much fuel into the car. That will be a hit and miss with figuring out which fuel injectors to replace without creating a test rig to plug the injectors into and testing their flow.
#9
yep I got the charger on it, and I think we are getting somewhere, I went out and held the pedal to the floor, and it turns over, but not a single sputter or pop, which leads me to think you were right about the fuel pump, when I press the fuel rail valve with out the motor turning over, I barely get a burb of gas, I would think there would be some more pressure like in my other car I tested, were It bleed off over a little length of time, but the Jag, just a short little burb and then nothing !
#10
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maximum, spend a few bucks (or see if you can rent one from a local auto parts store) and get yourself a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it to the fuel rail of your car. In your case, turn the key to the RUN position (do not attempt to crank the car) and see what the gauge goes to. It should jump up to 40-50 psi. If you are down around 40 psi or less, then your fuel pump is toast or you have a blockage in your fuel line. some members have had a problem with their fuel filters failing and leading to something like this.
If you can get the engine running, the pressure gauge should read 30-40 psi (closer to 40). Hope this helps.
If you can get the engine running, the pressure gauge should read 30-40 psi (closer to 40). Hope this helps.
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maximum, before you jump feet first into the gas tank, when you can access the plug to the fuel pump, you will see a red and yellow wire. Connect a multimeter across these two wires (may need to use say a paper clip to slide it into the plug so you have something to touch the multimeter leads to) and with the fuel lines still attached, turn the key to the RUN position. Did you see 12 VDC across the two wires? If yes, then that confirms a bad fuel pump (most likely component). But, if you are not getting 12 VDC, then you may have a bad fuel pump module. Hate to see you spend the hours replacing the fuel pump assembly just to have the same issue. The fuel pump module is on the driver's side, just inside of the rear passenger door, bolted to the top of the tank as I recall.
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