X-Type ( X400 ) 2001 - 2009
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

X not starting....Help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 05-17-2012, 05:18 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default X not starting....Help

ok it started with the car suddenly sputtering when first started cold, barely idle for maybe 10-15 seconds CEL flash and Cruise not avalible, then clear up and run fine, BUT NOW it won't even start !!! getting codes
P0102, P0112, P1224, and P1229 any Ideas ???
 
  #2  
Old 05-17-2012, 06:52 PM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

Maximum, based on the codes that you are getting, I would tell you to open up your hood and look at the area under the brake booster. You should see a wiring bundle there. Do a hand over hand of that wiring bundle looking for any damage to it. From the sounds of things, something has pinched that cable and you have a few wires that are getting shorted together. In short, your throttlebody is not getting the correct signal to partially open it to keep the car idling.

Now, when you say that the car will not start, are you meaning that the engine will not turn over or are you meaning that the engine will roll, but it doesn't seem to fire? This changes things significantly.
 
  #3  
Old 05-17-2012, 09:52 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

the engine turns over, and it almost fires, but never starts, just a few pops...
 
  #4  
Old 05-18-2012, 01:50 PM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

maximum, I want you to try something. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position (do not take to the START position). HOld it there for a few seconds. Now, attempt to start the car. Did the engine try to fire or actually run for a little bit? If so, you have a bad fuel pump. But, based on what you were describing with the codes, it is sounding more like a wire bundle that has gotten damaged. Since the engine will fire some, that is telling me that the ECU is good.
 
  #5  
Old 05-18-2012, 02:13 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok tryed turning the key to run for a few seconds, but still no start. Nothing different than before, I did have someone turn key to start while I push the valve in on the fuel line and it shot gas all over, so I don't think the fuel pump is bad
 
  #6  
Old 05-18-2012, 03:46 PM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

maximum, well, then, if you have fuel, you have power to the ECU, you have the timing (barring both of your timing chains breaking, but then, you would be fearful of starting the motor due the noise that this would make), all you have left is spark. This points back to either a bad ECU or a wiring issue (where I pointed out earlier). I doubt your fuse for the coils is blown as that would be resulting in lots of tranny codes due to lack of information.
 
  #7  
Old 05-18-2012, 04:55 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I checked the wires, they all look ok ! almost seems like its flooded ? when it first happened, there was miss fire codes, then after disconnecting the battery overnite, and trying to start it, I got the codes above, after trying over and over to start it the battery is dieing faster each time !
 
  #8  
Old 05-18-2012, 07:36 PM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

maximum, are you putting the battery on a charger between times of repeated cranks? If not, that is why.

On a side note, If you think you have a fuel injector that is causing your issues (which is what would be flooding the car out), you can press the gas pedal to the floor when you attempt to start the car. This will force the computer to shut off the fuel injectors (contrary to what you would think). This will allow you to push the gas out of the engine and hopefully that will allow the engine to fire. If that does, then you have a problem in trying to figure out why you are getting too much fuel into the car. That will be a hit and miss with figuring out which fuel injectors to replace without creating a test rig to plug the injectors into and testing their flow.
 
  #9  
Old 05-18-2012, 08:15 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

yep I got the charger on it, and I think we are getting somewhere, I went out and held the pedal to the floor, and it turns over, but not a single sputter or pop, which leads me to think you were right about the fuel pump, when I press the fuel rail valve with out the motor turning over, I barely get a burb of gas, I would think there would be some more pressure like in my other car I tested, were It bleed off over a little length of time, but the Jag, just a short little burb and then nothing !
 
  #10  
Old 05-19-2012, 08:21 AM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

maximum, spend a few bucks (or see if you can rent one from a local auto parts store) and get yourself a fuel pressure gauge. Connect it to the fuel rail of your car. In your case, turn the key to the RUN position (do not attempt to crank the car) and see what the gauge goes to. It should jump up to 40-50 psi. If you are down around 40 psi or less, then your fuel pump is toast or you have a blockage in your fuel line. some members have had a problem with their fuel filters failing and leading to something like this.

If you can get the engine running, the pressure gauge should read 30-40 psi (closer to 40). Hope this helps.
 
  #11  
Old 05-21-2012, 08:35 AM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

ok got a loan a tool fuel pressure gauge, from AutoZone, hooked it up, turn the key to run, got about 2 psi....I think its the fuel pump !! you were right thermo ! thanks so much for your help. today I'm going to start the removal of the bad one
 
  #12  
Old 05-21-2012, 04:33 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I think instead of droping the tank, I may just cut a access door in the floor under the seat, can anyone tell me if they have had sucess doing that, and the area I should be cutting ??
 
  #13  
Old 05-21-2012, 04:52 PM
pab's Avatar
pab
pab is offline
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,766
Received 240 Likes on 207 Posts
Default

Yes, a couple of people on the list have done that. One of whom, unfortunately, poked holes in his tank while doing so.

So, it can be done, but you have to be careful.
================================================
Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons
 
  #14  
Old 05-21-2012, 05:05 PM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

maximum, before you jump feet first into the gas tank, when you can access the plug to the fuel pump, you will see a red and yellow wire. Connect a multimeter across these two wires (may need to use say a paper clip to slide it into the plug so you have something to touch the multimeter leads to) and with the fuel lines still attached, turn the key to the RUN position. Did you see 12 VDC across the two wires? If yes, then that confirms a bad fuel pump (most likely component). But, if you are not getting 12 VDC, then you may have a bad fuel pump module. Hate to see you spend the hours replacing the fuel pump assembly just to have the same issue. The fuel pump module is on the driver's side, just inside of the rear passenger door, bolted to the top of the tank as I recall.
 
  #15  
Old 05-21-2012, 08:08 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok thanks for sure going to check that first !
 
  #16  
Old 05-22-2012, 08:45 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Thermo, under the rear seat is an access hole, is the wire harness there the one I check the red and yellow wires on, I'm assuming that's the one to the fuel pump ?
 
  #17  
Old 05-22-2012, 08:51 PM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

maximum, if I am remember things right, the plug for the fuel pump is on top of the tank right near the fuel pump module. So, in order to do the check, you will have to atleast drop the one side of the gas tank down to access.
 
  #18  
Old 05-22-2012, 09:00 PM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Ok, can't thank you enuff by the way for all the help ! Hopefully I get to check it out tomorrow, and get back to here with the findings !
 
  #19  
Old 05-23-2012, 10:48 AM
maximum's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 44
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

checked the wires and getting 12v with the key on run, just for the heck of it, I pounded on the tank a couple times, and tried to start it, and it started !!
 
  #20  
Old 05-23-2012, 03:34 PM
Thermo's Avatar
Veteran member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,214
Likes: 0
Received 3,825 Likes on 3,144 Posts
Default

maximum, if you can pound on the gas tank and it causes the car to start, then that almost confirms that the fuel pump is going. When it will completely fail, who knows. The pounding on the tank works for a little bit, but is not the end all.
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:18 PM.