X-Type codes P1000 P0303 P1647 missfire
 

I have had all these issues previously in one form or another and the O2 front was changed but not with OEM and the light keeps coming back on but I have ignored it silly me, then a misfire in number 3 so I pulled all the plugs replaced with new ones although old ones had only done 3000k since putting in iridium ones NGK6AP 13E I also changed all the coil packs back then but again not OEM, I was a mechanic so did all the checks for air leaks seals etc and fixed anything not in good condition but no actual leaks detected, since running it for months it was juddering slightly when first started up for the day until idle came down and was fine for rest of day.
after this coughing and spluttering I pulled the plugs, they are not all same colour so something odd with mixture probably the O2 sensor not being original, I am going to try and get OEM new or used to try out, I did not some carbon build up in the manifold to cylinders and there is a popping noise at air intake at idle like a backfire but not as severe .
I have taken all the codes and screenshots from ODBCII and attached, if anyone can see the problem I would appreciate the feedback.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...548098a279.png
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a2aa6679b6.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c3958bd3e4.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4909233328.png
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c65af7b8b7.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b7594fbdbf.png
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...7efac2b258.png
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f16cbabb2a.png
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9632395d30.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...fcf9ff8855.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a47ade5134.png
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9f557c88d0.png
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...bb787a8c34.png
viewed from front of car to rear

I guess, bank means cylinder.

I don't quite understand how it reads but if bank is a cylinder I must have lost a couple from the V6 I have another upstream O2 sensor on order as it is noted and the reading to me indicate imbalance, I am hoping this one works and brings balance back to the universe or it's time to search for Yoda or Spock lol

There are posts after posts of problems with O2 sensors that are not OEM (usually bought on the internet for cheap) causing problems. There are even some posts of people putting numerous sensors in, getting frustrated and buying OEM and "presto"! Problem solved.

Ignore Car5, his knowledge of X Types wouldn't even fill a thimble.

It appears to be readings from the 4 (yeah Car5) four sensors = 2 UPSTREAM and 2 DOWNSTREAM and it does appears they are not reading correctly. If you need guidance on fuel trims, there are several threads that are very comprehensive and detailed in this forum. Just do a search main page, advanced, fuel trims, change forum to X only. The electrical readings on the sensors look off as well.

Hi Dell,
Thanks for the input, can you tell me where and how much to expect to pay for upstream O2 near radiator, they go for $25 to $250 for same thing, lambda or Bosch, there are a poo load of posts your right, maybe OEM isn't so great if they fail so often as to create so many threads nobody wants to pay through the teeth for OEM simple device, I might have to search the wreckers

Cheers Dell,
AUD 96 to 252 bucks and not OEM most if not all of them so why the wild differences in price beats me, anyway like I say I have already ordered one so if it doesn't fix it I will give one of these a go, ever hopeful to rid myself of the P1647.
thanks again

Are Bank 1 S1 and Bank 2 S2 up streams the same sensors

Upstream and downstream are the same for either bank. Difference is in the up and down. Plugs are color coded.

I thought so thanks, I ordered this one from yes I know E-Bay Upstream Lambda Oxygen O2 Sensor For Jaguar X-Type 2.0 / 2.5 / 3.0 V6 XJ C2C7359
I will feedback after arrival and install

Hi Dell,
Sensor arrived and installed, since then full tank has with 1 bottle injector cleaner half tank now gone through her and still having issues, for the most part the engine light is off apart from acceleration when it flashes then goes off when I return to cruising and does not come on again unless I hard accelerate.
she does feel like a slight roughness like a misfire but runs really rough between 1200 -12200 rpm popping backfiring back through air filter hesitating and flat spotting. floor her and once over 2200 she feels fine up to 5500 and beyond but when she goes into top gear at 60kph the revs sits at 1500 and she runs like crap.
I have run half a tank through her since the new O2 and these are the readings:
Fuel System 1 status OL

Fuel System 2 status OL

Calculated LOAD Value 24.7%

Engine Coolant Temp 93 c

SHORT term fuel trim BANK 1 0.0%

SHORT term fuel trim BANK 2 0.0%

SHORT term fuel trim BANK 3 8.6%

SHORT term fuel trim BANK 4 10.2%

LONG term fuel trim BANK 1 1.6%

LONG term fuel trim BANK 2 0.0%

LONG term fuel trim BANK 3 10.9%

LONG term fuel trim BANK 4 10.9%

Engine RPM 723/Min

Vehicle speed 0km/h

Ignition timing advance for #1 Cyl 2.5 degrees up to as much as 7 degrees at idle

Intake air temp 26 degrees

Air Flow rate from MAS 5.39 g/s

Absolute throttle position 0.0%

O2 Sensor output Voltage (B1-S 0.035V2)

O2 Sensor output Voltage (B2-S 0.055V2)

Short term fuel trim (B1-S2) 0.0%

Short term fuel trim (B2-S2) 0.0%

Equivalence ratio (lambda)(B1-S1) 0.999

O2 sensor current (B1-S1) 0.025mA

Equivalence ratio (lambda)(B2-S1) 0.999

O2 sensor current (B2-S1) 0.00mA

I am struggling to believe a single non gen O2 sensor can cause the above issues, she has done 169k I am positive there are no air leaks at manifolds or intakes, I put new plugs in after it said misfire cyl3 but they ones I replaced were only 3k old and I put the original coil packs back on neither the plugs nor c/packs made the slightest difference, I would almost believe TPS or MAF but they are not indicating any issues.
I am going to look up the fuel trims section you mentioned se if I can spot a cause, if you have any comment on new figures or symptoms please let me know she is driving me nuts right now.
cheers in advance mate

Flashing MIL = severe misfire causing actual catalyst damage. DO NOT KEEP DOING THAT!!

The workshop manual explains the codes with causes and is a free download.

You need to fix the O2 code and the misfire code ASAP. Latter is usually bad coil - cheap=bad usually.

Maybe try moving the coil to a different cylinder to see if the code moves with it. That would at least tell you if it is the coil itself. But, like JagV8 said, if it is flashing that means it is doing damage, so you don't want to keep driving it like that.

^^ yup, yup. Moving the coil is inexpensive and will show you if it is a problem & driving it with a flashing warning, damage occurs incredibly fast.

I have been trying to find causes, I found an air leak Vac pipe fitting top of manifold near bulkhead goes to brake booster, I have had to do a farm fix (silicon) as I was afraid of breaking the part and something drop into manifold, anyway leak sealed cleared codes at idle most of the popping back through air filter box has gone, much smoother, on the road it was smoother, still hesitating 1200-2000 light accelerator but with small pedal inputs roughness is almost not noticeable.
my Autophix OM580 even though I cleared codes keeps showing P1647, P1000 and P0303 pending $07 and permanent $OA 1647 is the upstream O2 near the battery which I have replaced twice (non genuine) the misfire on cyl #3 is the same as before I changed out the spark plugs and put back the original coil packs so not suspecting those as cause, TPS increases on ODBC through range 0.0-100% MAF sensor moves with different throttle positions I have removed and cleaned MAF sensor.
with codes cleared I took it for a 15mile run, no ECL flashing or solid clear dash but I did not push it as I think it would flash under load and I want to see if it can recover, I thought it might have been a valve but discounted that now as with coil pack and plug so I am thinking fuel system??

ODBC still showing
SHORT term fuel trim BANK 1 0.0%
SHORT term fuel trim BANK 2 0.0%
LONG term fuel trim BANK 2 0.0%
O2 sensor current (B1-S1) 0.025mA
O2 sensor current (B2-S1) 0.00mA

what are BANK 123&4 and what is causing this 0.0% constant???

I am biting the bullet hate paying $127 bucks from Rockauto for a pocksy O2 sensor I really hope this fixes the issue once and for all lol due fedex 17th May will advise results

Would changing the O2 sensor eliminate the P0303 misfire code? If the O2 was bad, wouldn't it show misfires in more than 1 cylinder in that bank? Did you check the wiring around that coil pack?

all these issues have been conflicting and confusing Alfa, a lot of it makes no logical sense why doesn't a different cyl show misfire when the plugs and coils are changed over? why do certain banks show massively differing values I have to admit sometimes scratching my head to work it out, that's why I have resisted changing O2 for an expensive OEM Denso one and hopefully return the E-Bay one as not fit for purpose.
well I will get the new one in couple of weeks and post back results.

While you have the oxygen sensor out, you may find it useful to measure the exhaust backpressure, if you can find a way of safely doing it. The thread is M18 x 1.5. Should be quite low. Not enough to blow up a balloon at idle.

thanks Dave I will look at that when it is out