Xtype- cylinder 1 misfire!
#1
Xtype- cylinder 1 misfire!
Greetings all,
New to the forum, my 05 x type had a check engine light on, for
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire and code P1316- misfire rate exceeds emission
i have changed all 6 spark plugs and all 6 coil packs, don't know where to look next, same codes still on. any advise is appreciated, and is it bad to drive with it?
New to the forum, my 05 x type had a check engine light on, for
P0301- cylinder 1 misfire and code P1316- misfire rate exceeds emission
i have changed all 6 spark plugs and all 6 coil packs, don't know where to look next, same codes still on. any advise is appreciated, and is it bad to drive with it?
#2
Make sure the connector for the number 1 coil is ok.
This might help:
jaghelp.com: P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 and P0306 on you Jaguar X-type
You could also have a dirty injector. There are 4 things a cylinder needs to run:
Spark
Gas
Air
Compression
You are missing one. Even though you changed the coils, try swapping them with another to see if it stays at 1. Also take out the spark plug and make sure it is properly gapped.
After that it might be time for a compression check!
Good luck!
Also try: jaghelp.com: That pesky rough idle
This might help:
jaghelp.com: P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305 and P0306 on you Jaguar X-type
You could also have a dirty injector. There are 4 things a cylinder needs to run:
Spark
Gas
Air
Compression
You are missing one. Even though you changed the coils, try swapping them with another to see if it stays at 1. Also take out the spark plug and make sure it is properly gapped.
After that it might be time for a compression check!
Good luck!
Also try: jaghelp.com: That pesky rough idle
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02xtype05 (03-12-2015)
#3
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O2Xtype05, if you don't mind a little bit of a drive, I live about 2 hours south of you. I would be willing to look at the problem and see if there is something that we could do about it.
With all this being said, how is the gap of that plug? Could it have been accidentially bumped during install leading to the gap changing. The other thing I would look at is whether you have oil in the plug well or not. That can cause what you are seeing.
Like daxter recommends, you can swap the coil from the #1 cylinder (back cylinder nearest the passenger tire for you) with #2 (nearest the radiator on the side nearest the passenger tire). That way, if it is a coil issue, replacing it later will be much easier as you can remove the coil for #2 without having to remove anything off of the engine, unlike #1.
With all this being said, how is the gap of that plug? Could it have been accidentially bumped during install leading to the gap changing. The other thing I would look at is whether you have oil in the plug well or not. That can cause what you are seeing.
Like daxter recommends, you can swap the coil from the #1 cylinder (back cylinder nearest the passenger tire for you) with #2 (nearest the radiator on the side nearest the passenger tire). That way, if it is a coil issue, replacing it later will be much easier as you can remove the coil for #2 without having to remove anything off of the engine, unlike #1.
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02xtype05 (03-12-2015)
#4
Thank you for your response, i will look at it this weekend, but when i first had opened it, no oil was in there, i made sure of the gaps i believe they need to be .52.
@Thermo, the drive is normal, at start up it idles rough a bit, but as soon as the car sits for 15 seconds there is no problem. i will keep all posted thank you for your responses. i appreciate it but i wont be able to bring the car to you as i will be out of town all week and school starts next week for me.
@Thermo, the drive is normal, at start up it idles rough a bit, but as soon as the car sits for 15 seconds there is no problem. i will keep all posted thank you for your responses. i appreciate it but i wont be able to bring the car to you as i will be out of town all week and school starts next week for me.
#5
I had various misfires which the shop wasn't able to diagnose, so I rolled up my sleeves and got dirty. I determined that the plugs were fouled with oil. I traced this back to the valve cover gaskets failing due to an overpressure which had been caused by the deterioration of the crankcase breather tube.
One new breather tube, new plugs and valve cover gaskets solved the problem.
The other issue, which has now shown up, is an O2 sensor failure. Based on experience this could have been caused by the excessive unburned fuel going into the exhaust. I will be addressing that shortly.
When I bought the car people told me: "You'll be sorry; you can't do your own work on that car". Those people are completely, utterly wrong! Of course, I'm the guy who did a brake job on the rear end of a dually pickup last weekend. You have to pull the axle to change the rotor. My gearhead skills have been increasing and that is now no big deal.
One new breather tube, new plugs and valve cover gaskets solved the problem.
The other issue, which has now shown up, is an O2 sensor failure. Based on experience this could have been caused by the excessive unburned fuel going into the exhaust. I will be addressing that shortly.
When I bought the car people told me: "You'll be sorry; you can't do your own work on that car". Those people are completely, utterly wrong! Of course, I'm the guy who did a brake job on the rear end of a dually pickup last weekend. You have to pull the axle to change the rotor. My gearhead skills have been increasing and that is now no big deal.
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02xtype05 (03-12-2015)
#6
update
so a few days ago i was coming home and the check engine light started flashing on every uphill/straight road, the only time it didnt flash was on a down hill as i was barely pressing on the gas, the car was struggling to go pass 40mph, seemed to be better when i went into lower gears and relived the engine.
ran a code reader got the following,
P0301- c1 misfire
p0304-c4 misfire
p1316- misfire exceed emission
so i got back to work. i have taken almost everything out (as in everything on the top of the engine area ), no oil in any spark plug well,
took the injectors out cleaned them they seem to be fine, i ordered a set of new o rings for the injectors. planning on putting them back on once they arrive.
took both valve covers off, checked the timing chain along with all gears on the camshaft ect. they seem to be fine, timing chain was sitting nice and firm so i figured it had not skipped a gear. also ordered gaskets for both sides,
planning on putting everything back this weekend as I am waiting for parts to arrive. i still think the problem will be present.. dont know where to look next, any help would be appreciated.
ran a code reader got the following,
P0301- c1 misfire
p0304-c4 misfire
p1316- misfire exceed emission
so i got back to work. i have taken almost everything out (as in everything on the top of the engine area ), no oil in any spark plug well,
took the injectors out cleaned them they seem to be fine, i ordered a set of new o rings for the injectors. planning on putting them back on once they arrive.
took both valve covers off, checked the timing chain along with all gears on the camshaft ect. they seem to be fine, timing chain was sitting nice and firm so i figured it had not skipped a gear. also ordered gaskets for both sides,
planning on putting everything back this weekend as I am waiting for parts to arrive. i still think the problem will be present.. dont know where to look next, any help would be appreciated.
#8
@WAFlowers, yes, the sparks were all fine, so all my parts came in and i put it together, i start the car up, and everything seemed fine, no check engine light, i let the car warm up and while in neutral press on the gas and it seemed fine until it goes passed 2500 rpm. then the check engine light starts flashing. so i let go of the pedal and when rpm drops to normal idle, the flashing stops, and it seems normal again, no rough idle, doesn't hesitate to start,... Im guessing throttle body? or MAF sensor?
#9
I'm by no means a mechanic but just my two cents, a Throttle Body or MAF issue should throw you right into limp mode not cause a flashing MIL light. Flashing MIL after 2500rpm's when warm makes me think vacuum or catalyst issues, maybe O2 sensor. Although I'd think you'd have a code for the cat if that was an issue.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? I read on here someone suggested lighting a bunt (like the sticks you light on the 4th of July to light fireworks) run it around the manifold, IMT valves and brake booster area and the tip will glow red where ever there is air escaping these areas. The only other random thought that may have no bearing on your issue is replacing the crankcase sensor.
Have you checked for vacuum leaks? I read on here someone suggested lighting a bunt (like the sticks you light on the 4th of July to light fireworks) run it around the manifold, IMT valves and brake booster area and the tip will glow red where ever there is air escaping these areas. The only other random thought that may have no bearing on your issue is replacing the crankcase sensor.
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02xtype05 (03-20-2015)
#10
The possible causes for P0301 and P0304 listed in the Jaguar DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) Summary for your model and year are:
1. Cylinder compression low
2. Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s)
3. Fuel delivery pressure (low / high)
4. Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking
5. Fuel injector(s) continuously open
6. Fuel contamination
7. Fuel injector circuit fault(s) (Injector DTCs also flagged)
8. Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap
9. ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault (Cylinder misfire detected DTC also flagged)
10. Ignition coil failure
The list for P1316 is the same as the above.
Graham
1. Cylinder compression low
2. Worn camshaft / broken valve spring(s)
3. Fuel delivery pressure (low / high)
4. Fuel injector(s) restricted / leaking
5. Fuel injector(s) continuously open
6. Fuel contamination
7. Fuel injector circuit fault(s) (Injector DTCs also flagged)
8. Spark plug failure / fouled / incorrect gap
9. ECM to ignition coil primary circuit fault (Cylinder misfire detected DTC also flagged)
10. Ignition coil failure
The list for P1316 is the same as the above.
Graham
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02xtype05 (03-20-2015)
#11
thank you all for your responses, the problem came from bad ignition coils. at first when i had a misfire in c1, i replaced all the coils because it was time, and the misfire stayed on 1, so i ruled out the coils being a problem. after a while when c4 started to misfire i was checking everything else, because in my mind i had brand new coils in there, but apparently the coils i got where not a good brand. still weired to me that the bad coil to begin with was on c1. i bought airtex coils now, anyone have those on their car? i have heard they work well.
#12
02type05, I bought airtex & wells coils when i replaced my coils the first time. One of the new coils fouled immediately and I got about 6-8 months out of the other 5 before I started getting a misfire again. This time on Cylinder 3. So I bought OEM coils from Jagbits and it's been about 4 weeks with no issues. I don't know whether Airtex is bad, if I just got bad coils, or if I have bad luck. But, I can tell you I've gotten pretty good at tearing apart the manifold. Good luck and I'm glad you tracked it down.
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02xtype05 (04-08-2015)
#13
X-type Jaguar
Hi all, seen comments on this thread and would like some help. My X-type Jag runs fine but i have the check engine light on because of 1 upstream sensor and 1 down stream sensor which i intend to replace very soon. However recently i have noticed a couple of jerks around 30-50 mph and afterwards it's fine, was thinking fuel filter as mine has never been changed in the last 3 years says the person i bought it from. I am trying to rule out plugs and coils as the car starts fine every time with a smooth idle. It's done 117k miles at the moment. Any help will do.
Regards.
Reginald.
Regards.
Reginald.
#14
thank you all for your responses, the problem came from bad ignition coils. at first when i had a misfire in c1, i replaced all the coils because it was time, and the misfire stayed on 1, so i ruled out the coils being a problem. after a while when c4 started to misfire i was checking everything else, because in my mind i had brand new coils in there, but apparently the coils i got where not a good brand. still weired to me that the bad coil to begin with was on c1. i bought airtex coils now, anyone have those on their car? i have heard they work well.
I hope your problem stays away for you.
#15
Hi all, seen comments on this thread and would like some help. My X-type Jag runs fine but i have the check engine light on because of 1 upstream sensor and 1 down stream sensor which i intend to replace very soon. However recently i have noticed a couple of jerks around 30-50 mph and afterwards it's fine, was thinking fuel filter as mine has never been changed in the last 3 years says the person i bought it from. I am trying to rule out plugs and coils as the car starts fine every time with a smooth idle. It's done 117k miles at the moment. Any help will do.
Regards.
Reginald.
Regards.
Reginald.
#16
#17
Thanks Lubino, ugotmale and jagv8 for your comments, sorry i have been on holiday in a remote village, lol.
So back to the Jag, i have replaced the O2 sensors pulling out codes P0037, replaced fuel filter and earlier this year replaced air filter and cabin filter.
Initially after changing the sensors it was still pulling out P0037, P1647 and P1000, but after driving it for a week or two it stopped and it's only pulling out P1647 and P1000. The fuel consumption is slightly better 270miles per tank against 240 miles per tank before the sensors was changed. Despite the codes i still have a judder between 30 - 50 mph under load, but afterwards it's fine and still have the check engine light on, which blinks when it's juddering sometimes. I am now inclined to think spark plugs or coil pack might be the problem.
I also have an incorrect bottom sump bolt seal and slight leak on the sump, but was advised to sort out all that concerns the check engine light as the leak is very small and no loss of oil from dip stick indication.
I will appreciate any help on my present situation.
Regards.
So back to the Jag, i have replaced the O2 sensors pulling out codes P0037, replaced fuel filter and earlier this year replaced air filter and cabin filter.
Initially after changing the sensors it was still pulling out P0037, P1647 and P1000, but after driving it for a week or two it stopped and it's only pulling out P1647 and P1000. The fuel consumption is slightly better 270miles per tank against 240 miles per tank before the sensors was changed. Despite the codes i still have a judder between 30 - 50 mph under load, but afterwards it's fine and still have the check engine light on, which blinks when it's juddering sometimes. I am now inclined to think spark plugs or coil pack might be the problem.
I also have an incorrect bottom sump bolt seal and slight leak on the sump, but was advised to sort out all that concerns the check engine light as the leak is very small and no loss of oil from dip stick indication.
I will appreciate any help on my present situation.
Regards.
#18
To answer your question ugotmale, the last 3years refers from the time the previous owner had it until present, I have owned it for about 9 months now, no service record came with it, but i am determined to put things right because i really like my Jag. The Jag is due for its 100k service, but it at 113k and its now 120k. My plan is to service it, replace gasket and sump seal once i finalise my check engine light issue.
Regards.
Regards.
#19
#20