Heislegend31

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Joined 33 m ago
0 Posts Discussion Starter • #1 • 20 m ago (Edited)Hi All,

So as the long winded title probably suggest i am getting a whole host of errors pop up. I have a 2016 XF V6 S. 30,000 miles now.

When i started the car last week it popped up with ABS error, Stability Control Not Available, Emergency Brake Assist not available, Forward Alert not Available, ASPC not available. tyre pressure warning.
If you tried to reverse and park it wouldn't even stop playing the beeping sound and none of the parking sensors work and came up saying park assist not available.
I turned the car off and on a few times and it went away, was fine for a week but yesterday it did it again and no amount of power cycling fixed it. Still had this issue for 3 days now.

The car drives fine, sounds fine. Except i cant put it in eco mode, cant use cruise control and use parking sensors etc. etc.

I had a meter on the battery as that was my first thought that battery was on its way out. 12.49V with engine off and only boot light on and 14.6v with engine on. Only lost 40 CCA in the 4 years so in all the battery seems in excellent health and not the issue. Car diagnostic on tyres say all are at 35psi and manual gauge confirms so tyres are fine.

Anyone had similar or shed any advice side from take it to the garage? What could trigger pretty much every sensor to suddenly fail or not work?

 

Battery.health?

 

I second the motion...

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...bility-235525/

Less than 12.85v while off seems to be the cutoff point.

Original factory battery?
They seem to last 36 months sometimes...

 

Oh really 12.85v? Using the multi meter it read back that the battery health was excellent and on the battery housing it says 12V and up which is why i assumed it was fine. Yeah its the original Jaguar battery so will be just over 4 years old now and iv seen most people say they last 3-5 years which is why it was my first thought.

 

Battery health can be measured by State of Charge (SOC). You can have a 'good' reading and the car still won't turn over if there's an internal short in the battery (or electrical system) under load. With the engine running you should see 13 - 15V at the battery to let you know the alternator is working. With the engine off and no electric usage for a resting period of about 15 minutes is when you make the reading. If you have LED headlights in your XF you must wait until the cooling fan stops before the resting period starts. Here's the SOC values:
12.65V = 100%
12.45V = 75%
12.22V = 50%
12.06V = 25%
11.89V = 0/dead
You can see how important the 'rest' period is by stopping the motor and watching the voltage slowly rise until it reaches the maximum voltage. After you charge a battery you can see up to 12.85 volts at rest but it won't last for long at that level after driving the car.

 

If you keep a wet cell lead acid battery at a high charge level (around 75% or more) there's no reason they won't last much longer. If allowed to stay at a low level (<25%) constantly they sulfate and die sooner. If you do a lot of short trip driving, especially at night, or your car sits for days without driving, you will probably see a low SOC and should use a trickle charger/battery tender to keep it healthy. Cold environments are hard on batteries and tend to task them more as well.

 

I have been wondering if its due to the Coronavrirus and with working from home for 6 months so far my car has done 1 trip a week to the supermarket and back at most which is 8mile round trip. It has had some longer trips out now with relaxing restrictions. I did a 45mile round trip with all the warning lights on Saturday in the hopes it might re juvinate but nope. I wonder if that might have finished the batteries health off?

I just tested again as its now been sat for 24 hours with no driving and 12.4v and 14.2v when the engine turned on.

 

So the car hasn’t moved or been turned on for 24 hours and I get a reading of 12.45v with everything off bar boot light/open. With the engine on after I got 14.49v

so my battery is showing as 75% charged by that breakdown? So does that means it’s on it’s way out and could be the issue? Unfortunately I don’t own a smart charger or any charger to try that.

 

75% is good,.it's probably not your battery although it may take some time to reset the faults. You can disconnect then reconnect the battery and see if that clears them. Some cars, I don't know if the XF is one of them, only charge to 75% to leave headroom in the battery for charging when the car is decelerating. It's also easier to check the battery from under the hood at the jump start points. Just remember to pop your hood and wait a bit before measuring.

 

Mleskovar and other forum veterans know far more than I do so their input is always appreciated!

For clarity, I just called Jaguar Cincinnati service team:

"With engine off and no accessories running, 12.85 volts is fully charged and 12.3v is lowest standing operating voltage permissible. Should show Mid-13's and up during alternator charge."

As these batteries age (especially if sulfation occurs) the various Jaguar systems start to show error messages not necessarily indicative of a true failure in that system.
Just like my "errors" from 2 weeks ago..

Touch wood, my x260 has been wonderful since Jag paid for a new battery ($265) after 3 years of use on the original.

 

That's true but I'm saying it won't stay there nor will the alternator get it to that voltage in my experience. On any car. When I slow charge a car battery, or put a new one in off the shelf when they get too low from non use or they are dead, they start out at 12.8V but after driving it quickly drops down to 12.6V. I also question why 12.3V (over 50% SOC) as the lowest permissible for the XF but they're the experts. I've had below 12.1V with no apparent problem on many batteries but not the XF so far. I'd like to see the charging algorithm for the XF but haven't found one yet. Sometimes after long trips (daylight/500 miles) I get 12.45V and sometimes the same trip gets me 12.6V. One BMW I had never got above 12.45 on it's own and BMW said that's by design to give the battery room to store the charge generated under deceleration.

 

Yeah that makes sense about not charging to full to give battery room to store. My dad owns an x250 Jag XF, 2.0 Diesel. I took my multi meter with me and popped round there to test both. His battery voltage reading was near exact the same as mine. 12.49v with everything off and over 14v with engine running and his is fine.

I have a friend with an ODBC2 reader and software so im going to go there on Sunday and see if we can narrow down the fault codes. My money and hope is on a wheel or ABS sensor if its not the battery. I cant deal with anything too expensive right now as im buying my first house and they solicitors just rinsed me for an extra £350 on extra searches

 

If the reader picks up a code(s),write it down, clear, and see if it returns. With all those codes going on at once I would do a battery disconnect/reconnect reset if the reader can't clear them..

 

And best fortunes on the new house!
Moving to Chelsea?😉

 

Have somebody solved this problem??I have the same problem but mine goes of after i turn the engine off

 

Yes.. the problem was solved.

Its solution was the dealer supplying a new battery and replacing the ecu as per a recent TSB.

Tell us your situation mate..
(model year, mileage, codes, etc..)

 

Mine is 2016 xf x260 3.0d v6 S 50k miles no code showing but all those errors pop up like Heis said plus a slightly vibration sometimes when turning the steering wheel but in my situation all the errors gone after stop and come back when driving around 5 miles.I have tried to resset all by disconnect the battery(did it yesterday)and now since then didn't pop up nothing but my steering wheel adjustment not working anymore.

 

Original battery?
Any water ingress into the trunk well where the battery lives?
You live in Barnesly so I figure no 60k mile warranty as in USA?

 

No water ingress in trunk
Unfortunately there's no 60k mile
I will start this weekend with the battery health to see what is going on.

 

Best Wishes on it..
FWIW, my 3 yo battery showed just fine in testing until it suddenly didn't; and all warning light hell broke loose.

I bought the Ctek Tender and used it on occasion when not driving for several days.. all lights on it showed Green.

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