2013 XF Brake pads and rotors
#1
05-23-2018, 09:54 PM
2013 XF Brake pads and rotors
Hi everyone,
I know this topic has been beaten to death around here but I had some questions for which I couldn't find answers in any of the threads. I have a CPO 2013 XF (3.0 V6 supercharged), and when I went in for my 48,000 miles service last weekend (mine has 37,000), I was told by the dealer that I had 1mm on the front brakes and 2mm on the rear. They quoted me $1800 excluding tax for the job. I wanted to shop around first and see what others had to offer, so I declined to get it done at the dealer. Also, my brake pad warning never came on, so I was kinda skeptical about this. I showed it to one of my colleagues who was a technician at Firestone before and he told me there's definitely more than 1 mm on the pad. But I still looked around and most of the quotes that I received (for OEM pads and rotors) are around $1400 (front and rear). Firestone actually quoted $2500 for the job, more than the dealer. I wasn't sure if this was a lot or if this is the going rate. I was also not sure of using third party brake pads and rotors as using these would void the warranty. I called up jaguar customer service and they told me that the brake pads and rotors are anyways not covered under CPO, so I should be fine going with third party components. The issue that might come up is that if any components that is covered under the CPO is damaged as a result of using these third party components, then the damaged wouldn't be covered.
So I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with these sort of things. People here do recommend pads other than the OEMs because of brake dust and other factors but I wasn't sure which ones to go with. Or should I ask the mechanic himself to see if they could recommend something? Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
I know this topic has been beaten to death around here but I had some questions for which I couldn't find answers in any of the threads. I have a CPO 2013 XF (3.0 V6 supercharged), and when I went in for my 48,000 miles service last weekend (mine has 37,000), I was told by the dealer that I had 1mm on the front brakes and 2mm on the rear. They quoted me $1800 excluding tax for the job. I wanted to shop around first and see what others had to offer, so I declined to get it done at the dealer. Also, my brake pad warning never came on, so I was kinda skeptical about this. I showed it to one of my colleagues who was a technician at Firestone before and he told me there's definitely more than 1 mm on the pad. But I still looked around and most of the quotes that I received (for OEM pads and rotors) are around $1400 (front and rear). Firestone actually quoted $2500 for the job, more than the dealer. I wasn't sure if this was a lot or if this is the going rate. I was also not sure of using third party brake pads and rotors as using these would void the warranty. I called up jaguar customer service and they told me that the brake pads and rotors are anyways not covered under CPO, so I should be fine going with third party components. The issue that might come up is that if any components that is covered under the CPO is damaged as a result of using these third party components, then the damaged wouldn't be covered.
So I wanted to see if anyone had any experience with these sort of things. People here do recommend pads other than the OEMs because of brake dust and other factors but I wasn't sure which ones to go with. Or should I ask the mechanic himself to see if they could recommend something? Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
#2
05-23-2018, 11:50 PM
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Notwithstanding the CPO (and we know how flaky many CPOs can be), if you are even remotely handy with the spanners and you have the space/time/tools then a DIY change of both pads and rotors is fairly easy. As an added bonus of which you already seem to be aware after-market pads can be much better than OEM pads (and cost way less) and after-market rotors are just as good as OEM and cost way less as well, the total cost should come in at well less than $1,000 US and closer to $500 US.
Also, after 37,000 miles, the brake rotors may not yet need changing, but it depends on how the car has been driven and how the brakes have been used so far, if you are a light braker they should still be OK.
On a 2013 XF V6 supercharged you will have the 355 mm front and 326 mm rear brakes, and the minimum specified legal thickness for those brake rotors is front 30 mm / 1.18" and rear 18 mm / 0.72". Measure them yourself with a vernier caliper or get a shop to do it and see if they need renewing yet. Even then those specified thicknesses are based on 2 mm of wear off new discs, ie a whopping 1 mm each side, so even when they are down to the specified minimum thickness there is still heaps of meat left on them.
Of course you should also check for the general condition of the rotors and if heavily scored or pitted they should be replaced.
Last but not least the XF pad wear sensors can be problematic and yours may not be working or they have been disconnected and/or disabled. They are supposed to trigger when the monitored pad gets down to about 4 mm thick, so again plenty of meat left. There are only two sensors, left front inner pad and right rear inner pad, and it's vaguely possible but very unlikely that those pads are still 4 mm+ thick but one or more of the other pads are worn much more. I say unlikely because on the type of braking system used by the XF the inner pad usually does more work and wears faster than the outer pad, as it is directly acted on by the brake piston.
Also, after 37,000 miles, the brake rotors may not yet need changing, but it depends on how the car has been driven and how the brakes have been used so far, if you are a light braker they should still be OK.
On a 2013 XF V6 supercharged you will have the 355 mm front and 326 mm rear brakes, and the minimum specified legal thickness for those brake rotors is front 30 mm / 1.18" and rear 18 mm / 0.72". Measure them yourself with a vernier caliper or get a shop to do it and see if they need renewing yet. Even then those specified thicknesses are based on 2 mm of wear off new discs, ie a whopping 1 mm each side, so even when they are down to the specified minimum thickness there is still heaps of meat left on them.
Of course you should also check for the general condition of the rotors and if heavily scored or pitted they should be replaced.
Last but not least the XF pad wear sensors can be problematic and yours may not be working or they have been disconnected and/or disabled. They are supposed to trigger when the monitored pad gets down to about 4 mm thick, so again plenty of meat left. There are only two sensors, left front inner pad and right rear inner pad, and it's vaguely possible but very unlikely that those pads are still 4 mm+ thick but one or more of the other pads are worn much more. I say unlikely because on the type of braking system used by the XF the inner pad usually does more work and wears faster than the outer pad, as it is directly acted on by the brake piston.
#3
05-24-2018, 07:33 AM
Notwithstanding the CPO (and we know how flaky many CPOs can be), if you are even remotely handy with the spanners and you have the space/time/tools then a DIY change of both pads and rotors is fairly easy. As an added bonus of which you already seem to be aware after-market pads can be much better than OEM pads (and cost way less) and after-market rotors are just as good as OEM and cost way less as well, the total cost should come in at well less than $1,000 US and closer to $500 US.
Also, after 37,000 miles, the brake rotors may not yet need changing, but it depends on how the car has been driven and how the brakes have been used so far, if you are a light braker they should still be OK.
On a 2013 XF V6 supercharged you will have the 355 mm front and 326 mm rear brakes, and the minimum specified legal thickness for those brake rotors is front 30 mm / 1.18" and rear 18 mm / 0.72". Measure them yourself with a vernier caliper or get a shop to do it and see if they need renewing yet. Even then those specified thicknesses are based on 2 mm of wear off new discs, ie a whopping 1 mm each side, so even when they are down to the specified minimum thickness there is still heaps of meat left on them.
Of course you should also check for the general condition of the rotors and if heavily scored or pitted they should be replaced.
Last but not least the XF pad wear sensors can be problematic and yours may not be working or they have been disconnected and/or disabled. They are supposed to trigger when the monitored pad gets down to about 4 mm thick, so again plenty of meat left. There are only two sensors, left front inner pad and right rear inner pad, and it's vaguely possible but very unlikely that those pads are still 4 mm+ thick but one or more of the other pads are worn much more. I say unlikely because on the type of braking system used by the XF the inner pad usually does more work and wears faster than the outer pad, as it is directly acted on by the brake piston.
Also, after 37,000 miles, the brake rotors may not yet need changing, but it depends on how the car has been driven and how the brakes have been used so far, if you are a light braker they should still be OK.
On a 2013 XF V6 supercharged you will have the 355 mm front and 326 mm rear brakes, and the minimum specified legal thickness for those brake rotors is front 30 mm / 1.18" and rear 18 mm / 0.72". Measure them yourself with a vernier caliper or get a shop to do it and see if they need renewing yet. Even then those specified thicknesses are based on 2 mm of wear off new discs, ie a whopping 1 mm each side, so even when they are down to the specified minimum thickness there is still heaps of meat left on them.
Of course you should also check for the general condition of the rotors and if heavily scored or pitted they should be replaced.
Last but not least the XF pad wear sensors can be problematic and yours may not be working or they have been disconnected and/or disabled. They are supposed to trigger when the monitored pad gets down to about 4 mm thick, so again plenty of meat left. There are only two sensors, left front inner pad and right rear inner pad, and it's vaguely possible but very unlikely that those pads are still 4 mm+ thick but one or more of the other pads are worn much more. I say unlikely because on the type of braking system used by the XF the inner pad usually does more work and wears faster than the outer pad, as it is directly acted on by the brake piston.
Regarding the rotor and brake thicknesses, i made an appointment with Firestone this evening to get these checked (they have free brake inspection). What i dont get is how the dealer told me i could get 5000 miles off of those brake pads when i only have 1mm left on the front and 2mm left on the rear. Also, i do believe i need to change the rotors, atleast on the front because the steering wobbles when i brake hard. I dont feel anything when i brake light, which is most of the time, but sometimes when i have to brake suddenly, i can feel the steering wobble. I was under the same impression that i shouldn't need to change the brakes and rotors since it's only 37,000 miles but looks like the people who used it before used it heavily.
This is what i got back from one of the mechanics (just the front):
To stay OME premiumRotors $250 (price for both)
Pad set $150
Front pad wear indicator $50 ( I priced up the back)
Labor 2.0 $210
equals $660.00
tax total would be $709.50To stay with us purchasing from Byers Imports (Jag dealer) below are Jag prices
Rotors $250.00 (Price for both)
Pads set $395 2 days out
Wear indicator $58
labor 2.0 hours $210
$913.00
tax $981.48
Even if i take out those labor prices, it still seems expensive just for the front, i can be wrong though.
Thanks again!
#4
05-24-2018, 01:34 PM
Senior Member
I usually buy my parts from RockAuto, where the front rotors would be roughly $160 depending on which ones you get, Ceramic dust free pads are $40, and the wear indicator is like $15. (only needed if the old one was actually triggered, if it looks like it's not been worn it doesn't actually need replaced) replacing the brakes is 9 bolts per rim, including the 5 to get the wheel off itself. Its dirty for sure, but outside of loosening some very tight bolts it's a very easy job. I've done enough that i can do all 4 corners in an hour with hand tools. If you go Rock Auto dont forget to google this months discount code for 5% off.
#5
05-24-2018, 06:35 PM
I usually buy my parts from RockAuto, where the front rotors would be roughly $160 depending on which ones you get, Ceramic dust free pads are $40, and the wear indicator is like $15. (only needed if the old one was actually triggered, if it looks like it's not been worn it doesn't actually need replaced) replacing the brakes is 9 bolts per rim, including the 5 to get the wheel off itself. Its dirty for sure, but outside of loosening some very tight bolts it's a very easy job. I've done enough that i can do all 4 corners in an hour with hand tools. If you go Rock Auto dont forget to google this months discount code for 5% off.
Also, I just got back from a brake inspection at Firestone. They told me there was 5mm left on both front and rear. This was in line with what my colleague told me when he looked at it. They told me I could easily get 15-20000 out of these. They also said there was a brake sensor that would notify me when the pads need to be replaced. One thing they told me that I'm not sure I believe is that the rotors are made of a comparatively softer material like the ones for Mercedes. They said I was probably feeling the vibrations because of that and that the rotors seem fine. I might have to take it to a mechanic to get another opinion on this. And in the meantime look for brake pads and get the tools for the brake job if I decide to go with it, I really want to do it myself, seems fun.
Thanks!
#6
05-24-2018, 07:12 PM
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If the brake pads have 5 mm left all round that is plenty.
Why did the dealer tell you they had only 1 mm or 2 mm left?
I think there was a misunderstanding and what the dealer tried to tell you was that there was only 1 mm or 2 mm left before they reached the thickness at which the pad wear sensor is supposed to trigger (4 mm).
Yes, the OEM Jag brake rotors are relatively soft and wear down fairly quickly, but as I said before get their thickness measured before you renew them, they may have plenty of life left in them yet.
If the rotors are still plenty thick enough then the easiest and cheapest thing you can try to get rid of braking vibrations is to get the rotors "skimmed" or "machined", a brake shop can do that for $10-20 per rotor.
Why did the dealer tell you they had only 1 mm or 2 mm left?
I think there was a misunderstanding and what the dealer tried to tell you was that there was only 1 mm or 2 mm left before they reached the thickness at which the pad wear sensor is supposed to trigger (4 mm).
Yes, the OEM Jag brake rotors are relatively soft and wear down fairly quickly, but as I said before get their thickness measured before you renew them, they may have plenty of life left in them yet.
If the rotors are still plenty thick enough then the easiest and cheapest thing you can try to get rid of braking vibrations is to get the rotors "skimmed" or "machined", a brake shop can do that for $10-20 per rotor.
#7
05-27-2018, 08:32 AM
If the brake pads have 5 mm left all round that is plenty.
Why did the dealer tell you they had only 1 mm or 2 mm left?
I think there was a misunderstanding and what the dealer tried to tell you was that there was only 1 mm or 2 mm left before they reached the thickness at which the pad wear sensor is supposed to trigger (4 mm).
Yes, the OEM Jag brake rotors are relatively soft and wear down fairly quickly, but as I said before get their thickness measured before you renew them, they may have plenty of life left in them yet.
If the rotors are still plenty thick enough then the easiest and cheapest thing you can try to get rid of braking vibrations is to get the rotors "skimmed" or "machined", a brake shop can do that for $10-20 per rotor.
Why did the dealer tell you they had only 1 mm or 2 mm left?
I think there was a misunderstanding and what the dealer tried to tell you was that there was only 1 mm or 2 mm left before they reached the thickness at which the pad wear sensor is supposed to trigger (4 mm).
Yes, the OEM Jag brake rotors are relatively soft and wear down fairly quickly, but as I said before get their thickness measured before you renew them, they may have plenty of life left in them yet.
If the rotors are still plenty thick enough then the easiest and cheapest thing you can try to get rid of braking vibrations is to get the rotors "skimmed" or "machined", a brake shop can do that for $10-20 per rotor.
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#8
05-28-2018, 07:12 PM
Regarding the rotors, the minimum thickness is based on Max speed to 0 and safety factor of at least 2 due to legal liability. I have 150k miles on my XF, have done several pad changes and still on the original rotors without any ill affect. My rotors have maybe a 2mm wear ridge on them and I'm not in least bit worried about them.
If I ever took my car to the track I would certainly change the pads and rotors, but a 150k mile car has no business on the track in the first place... If you're a regular driver and the rotors aren't warped or gouged badly I wouldn't worry about them, save your money.
If I ever took my car to the track I would certainly change the pads and rotors, but a 150k mile car has no business on the track in the first place... If you're a regular driver and the rotors aren't warped or gouged badly I wouldn't worry about them, save your money.
Last edited by wardo5757; 05-28-2018 at 07:15 PM.
#9
06-10-2018, 05:40 PM
Regarding the rotors, the minimum thickness is based on Max speed to 0 and safety factor of at least 2 due to legal liability. I have 150k miles on my XF, have done several pad changes and still on the original rotors without any ill affect. My rotors have maybe a 2mm wear ridge on them and I'm not in least bit worried about them.
If I ever took my car to the track I would certainly change the pads and rotors, but a 150k mile car has no business on the track in the first place... If you're a regular driver and the rotors aren't warped or gouged badly I wouldn't worry about them, save your money.
If I ever took my car to the track I would certainly change the pads and rotors, but a 150k mile car has no business on the track in the first place... If you're a regular driver and the rotors aren't warped or gouged badly I wouldn't worry about them, save your money.
Thank you!
#10
06-16-2018, 06:58 PM
Thank you for your reply! I'm not sure if I understand the info you provided. Do you mean it's okay for me to use the same rotors even though I get a wobble when I brake? I did think about it because it really wasn't bothering me. The only fact that was though was that something might suddenly break if I don't get it fixed and can result in a very unpleasant situation. So I didn't want to risk it. I did ask around for resurfacing rotors and they said it wouldn't be worth it since the labor more or less comes to the same amount and in that situation, it's better to get both the pads and rotors changed. I actually got it done last Friday (sorry I didn't see the post before as I didn't think there would be any more replies). Now I'm facing another issue after the change for which I'm planning to start another thread since I didn't get any info about that in the forums.
Thank you!
Thank you!
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