Thank you for the reply. I haven't updated on my progress yet because I haven't gotten back to that project. It's not at my house, which makes it not-so-convenient to just work on in my spare time. I have to commute to it!

 

OK, so I went at it again tonight.

I pried up on the fuel lines over the middle bolt/stud combo, holding down the black valve cover. This was to ease up on the threads so that the last thread wouldn't be damaged. I then managed to finagle the fuel lines over the stud. It was a combined thing - getting it just high enough the tilt the stud/bolt thing to the side and pull it out. I didn't do that last part until I was doing a test run of putting the cam cover back on - it just wasn't going to happen with that bolt in the way.

With that out of the way, I used my largest flat screwdriver and put it between the square nub on the cam cover nearest the oil filter adapter. The screwdriver had a square shaft, so I used a wrench to turn it. The seal broke free with ease. The cover was manipulated off the two dowels that aligned the cover to the head, and the part was liberated from the engine. From there, I cleaned up the mating surfaces with an abrasive pad and carb cleaner, compressed air, and shop rags. I then used an RTV sealant. I used Ultimate Grey by JB Weld. It seemed to meet all the requirements, and the winning qualifier was that it was sitting on my shelf, ready to go However, the assembly instructions only required me to turn the cover mounting bolts a half turn after curing. The post above states 12nm. Looking at a conversion chart, that seems to be 106 in-lb. I haven't gotten to this stage yet as I'm waiting for it to cure, but I'm thinking a half turn isn't going to reach the 106 in-lb...

As for the wait, I've used the time to reassemble the actuators back onto the cam cover, clean up some of the oil on the pulleys and surrounding areas, and get the valve cover bolts back in and fuel lines reassembled and back in place.

 

I thought you might like some mechanical **** for you viewing pleasure.

 

Lastly, what is the coolant refill procedure if I only had to remove the top hose of the radiator? Can I just attach it to the radiator, fill up the tube as far as I can then reattach and hope the remaining air burps itself out? I'm thinking not.

Are there bleeder screws in the system?

 

Not tryint to open an old Post. However. I'm about to do this same job. A have small leak, same area. Question how did you unscrew the Big Bolt that holds the fuel lines in the Cover ? What was the method you used. I didn't quite understand. Thanks

Jayson
2015 XF 3.0 S/c with an oil leak