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-   -   Buying an XFR (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xf-xfr-x250-44/buying-xfr-196788/)

LoveAJag 02-14-2018 08:36 AM

Buying an XFR
 
Hello,

Newbie here, I'm looking to buy an XFR from 2009 it's done 119K but hasn't got a service history past 90k. It's through a trade seller and he doesn't know if the cambelt was done at a 100K. It's priced accordingly, I'm planning on putting it in for a service straight away.

I was after advice on what to look out for in buying an XFR of this age? Any links to what should be in this major service? and any Jag specialists in the Hertfordshire or surrounding Areas in the U.K.

Thanks

les 02-15-2018 10:03 AM

Hi.

The XFR doesn't have a cam belt, the cams are chain driven.
There are two belts. One for the supercharger and another for ancillaries, alternator, etc.

Cheers and enjoy the car if you buy it, they are a real blast.

You might get some advice re UK Jag Indies here; [url=http://www.jaguarforum.com/]JaguarForum.com

carzaddict 02-15-2018 10:19 AM

the e-diff can be a potential problem. something to be aware of.

OzXFR 02-15-2018 05:08 PM

A few things to check before you buy, search here and you'll find plenty of info about them:
1. Coolant leaks - coolant pump seals(s) and especially the cross-over pipe front/top of the engine if it's the plastic one. If you are looking at a 2009 XFR you should be OK with that pipe as it's alloy, it was changed to plastic in 2012/2013.
2. Brakes and tyres - the XFR is hard on both, check the tread depth on the tyres, even wear (or not) across the tread, brake pad thickness and condition and brake rotor thickness and condition.
3. Excessively rattly engine especially at idle (the DI engine "rattles" a bit from new anyway), usually a symptom of a worn supercharger coupler / torsion isolator. Fairly expensive to fix as the whole supercharger must be removed, so lots of labour cost.
4. Rough/uneven idle and less than stellar throttle response - usually due to carboned up intake valves and intake tracts, happens eventually to most AJ133 engines as they are DI. Again, can be fixed but can be expensive due to labour costs. Also check for dirty MAF sensors, 5 minute job to clean and possibly dirty air filters, not all that expensive to replace and a 10 minute job.
5. If no service history for the last 20k miles then best to assume the engine oil and filter are due for replacement, get them done pronto, the AJ133 engine is fairly sensitive to oil quality.
You can download a copy of the full 2010-2011 XFR Workshop Manual from my Dropbox here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/bet26xniua...kshop.pdf?dl=0
Only some very minor changes from the 2009 model, and no engine/mechanical changes I can think of, it should have most of the service info you need.

ariba 04-15-2018 08:01 PM

OZXFR & Carzaddict said very good info I used the same engine on my 2004 XJR the plastic hoses had to be changed after 70K. In my opinion and if I am a Horse Power person I will pay more for the 5.0 SC engine that comes in the 2010 +. It has 100 HP more and with a good pulley & ECU tuning you will get 600 + HP. If it didn't mater with you as 100 HP the 2009 XFR is a grate car to buy.


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