No worries, the pic looks good. This appears to be the same design as mine. If you have a long flat-blade screwdriver, you can gently push down to insert the tip of the screwdriver in one of those gaps on the outside edge of the black retaining clip on the top, and once the screwdriver is firmly inserted you can begin to wiggle it loose. A pair of long needle-nose pliers should also do the trick. The plastic clip on the top might give some resistance at first but if you are persistent it should come loose.

 

A few posts here say that the level sensor is not available--in fact, Jaguar sells it as part #C2Z6566. But Jaguar doesn't bother to mention that it cannot be installed! Other posts here explain that it is fastened to the bottom of the tank with some magic and virtually can't be replaced. No matter, since the actual reason for the "low coolant" light coming on is almost always a sunken float inside the tank--as several other members have helpfully pointed out! While Blaydes99 outlined an imaginative way to put a substitute float under the bad float, I found the procedure impossible to do. No matter how hard I tried--gently--to remove the black retaining clip with pliers, it would not come out and I feared breaking the 'post' off. Maybe on his earlier car (mine is a 2013) the clip was made differently and could be dislodged. Anyway, to fix it right, believe the people who say "just buy a complete new tank that comes with a new sending unit" and save yourself a lot of fiddling around. Or, just drop a loop of fine mechanic's wire under the bad float, tug it up to the black clip and tie the wire off on the handy 'max' lip inside the neck, which turns off the light, and keep an eye on your coolant level the old fashioned way--as I did.

 

I think I'm in the same boat as you Cathead as mine is a 2013 3.0 AWD. I pulled really hard and tried using a screwdriver as he suggested and i've broken the outer rings he mentioned. Found a used tank on Ebay with a 90 day warranty with only 38k miles allegedly with a sensor for $30 so it is on it's way. In the meantime, I put fishing line around the float to turn off the message. Thanks for your insight.

 

Is this the same tank you can buy new on Parts.com for $82, and you people are messing around with sensor replacements and buying used tanks?? LOL

RESERVOIR TANK[ 15 ]
Part Number
T2H4044
$82.67 / each

 

No the part for my vehicle on that site is $100. Plus I'm getting a sensor I'm hoping is in a lot better condition than mine because I saw mine has a crack toward the base of the post. Yes I'm taking a chance but for the price is worth the gamble. I can buy 3 used for the price I paid than for 1 new one and sensor. Also if I have a spare I may figure out how to get retainer off and fix the float without worrying about not being able to drive without a functional tank. Lastly, it isn't like it is a complicated swap and if I have to replace again won't be a big deal.

 

The tanks on these cars are a consumable item. They are known for cracking and leaking, which could cost you your engine. What are you going do next, buy used oil with only 5000 miles on it for your next oil change?

 

I appreciate your opinion but first of all you were wrong about the price of the tank for my vehicle and even suggested the wrong part. Second, I have 112,000 miles on my car and I have a small hope that a vehicle, if stated truthfully, that had only 38,000 miles on it has a bit more life in that tank. Third, your question really isn't in the same ballpark and comparing apples and oranges. I wouldn't buy used spark plugs either if you're curious about that too. A coolant tank that is supposed to be in grade A condition with low miles that has been checked out that includes a sensor and a decent warranty for a pretty good price? Yes, seems like a viable option. I'm taking a guess that the tanks aren't cracking because they are just too old and have some sort of expiration date on them. I'm guessing it is from all of the heating cycles they endure from being in a small engine compartment and the heat from the coolant as well. I'm curious about your position on the tank you have on your vehicle now? Are you concerned it is going to crack or fail and you lose your engine? Did you already replace it as a precaution and maintenance item just to be sure it doesn't? Seems like that is what you are suggesting everyone should do because if one fails they all do and should be replaced on some interval. Lastly, I fully expect even if a used tank, which could fail like you suggest and seems to be a possibility I don't deny, I hope will trigger the low coolant message that I currently have erroneously and I'll pull over and check it. Trust me, the first thing I'll do is make sure the sensor does in fact work in the replacement tank so I have some sense of confidence it will tell me if it gets low. I'll also make sure it doesn't leak and monitor for a while until i'm confident, as much as I was before mine started having issues, that it will be fine for now.

 

Never heard that one before - what's the recommended maintenance/replacement interval for the coolant tank as documented by Jaguar? My XF is almost 10 years old and the coolant tank/reservoir has not been "consumed" by cracks and leaks, but instead does its job. Do you have any real data to back up your claim?

 

I have owned 2 s-types, an x-type, an xj8 and currently own an XFSC. The 2 s-types had under 60k miles on them and were 6-8 years old. The x-type had 40k and 4 years old, the XJ8 was 4 years old and 66k and the XF is an '09 with 52k miles on it. Here's the common theme with all those cars. At one point or another, during my ownership, they all, needed the coolant reservoir replaced. None of them ever let go completely, and in both s-types they failed around the nipple that leads to the top of the radiator. The XJ8 had a crack around the filler cap, the X-type cracked a seam and the XF needed a replacement because the float switch sunk. I drove the XF for 6 months with the float tied up with some fishing line, but I eventually chickened out, knowing that if the tank ever failed, I would only really know about it once damage was done. So in summary I would really say that they are a consumable item, they will fail. I have jokingly come to the conclusion that Jaguar can't design a coolant reservoir that lasts. If you have an early XF and haven't replaced the tank yet, I'd say you are living on borrowed time.

 

See my reply above. There is no recommended interval for replacement, I just don't believe Jaguar can design a reservoir that lasts..... I have the same MY XF and I would seriously consider replacing it very soon. You are on borrowed time....

 

That's a stupid argument. There's a ton of things that are not on the "maintenance schedule" that need to be replaced with time/mileage. You obviously are not a car person, so I won't try to educate you to my level of knowledge of cars on a thread reply.

By the way, I replaced the coolant tanks in both of my XF along with all the plastic pipes and water pumps around 6 years/50K miles. Look up my threads with the all the pics.

Also did the cleaning of the intake valves that were caked on with tar-like substance and robbing performance and idle quality.

Tell me, do you see intake valve cleaning on the maintenance schedule??

Didn't think so..

 

Yeah, you were already proved wrong here, but if you paid attention on these forums, you would see failures of these tanks, coolant pipes and water pumps are common.

 

Not my opinion, just facts.

You know what's an opinion? The seller of that tank telling you it has low mileage. Those people can make up anything. Who knows how many miles on the tank?? You going to check the odometer on the tank when you get it? LOL

Plastics don't show signs of wear, they just break, and when a cooling system loses pressure, you may not get a low coolant light before you damage your heads. Check out that thread on the guy that bought a XF with a dropped valve seat from overheating. Looked like a fun job that could have been avoided with proactive maintenance.

And sorry I showed you the tank for a later model 3.0L XF, but more sorry that an extra $18 is so much money to you that you can't afford to do the job right.

And yes, I replaced the tank, and all the coolant plastic pipes, and water pump (and idlers and serpentine belt), and cleaned the intake valves at around 6 years/50K miles on both my XF's. Look up my posts on both cars.

Good luck with your engine rebuild. At least you'll always be able to say you should have listened to the guy that can not only afford a new coolant tank, but also a Lamborghini!

 

There are quite a few logical flaws in your assumptions, such as "plastics don't show signs of wear" and "they just break". You also fail to recognize that there is a significant difference between "complete failure" of an engine and cleaning the valves to maintain optimal performance. The reality is that EVERYTHING is a consumable item eventually, but the question is at what point do we call the item "consumed"? As we can see, our opinions vary on when the "coolant" tank is considered to be consumed and needs to be replaced. There is a drastic difference in performance between a part that is still functioning and a part that has failed. I'm guessing that your point is that we shouldn't mess around with any part or system, that if it fails, could damage the engine or a primary system of the vehicle.

On another note, that's a good looking Lamborghini. Not sure how you managed to take that picture either...

 

I'm really glad you can afford all of the vehicle listed in your signature plus a new coolant tank. Now my question is if you have so much money to throw around, why are you wasting your time doing your own maintenance and not paying someone much lower class than you to do it for you? Even better, why do you maintain anything and not just trade it and buy a new one? What is your problem? I tell you what, I got the used tank yesterday and going to put it on today. I'll let you know when my engine blows and I have to rebuild it because the tank failed like you predicted. Maybe you can drive one of your fancy cars to WV and show me how to be such a car guru like you. I can show you what it is like to be a country boy. Among some of those things are: integrity, honesty, respect. Granted someone out to make a buck may in fact lie, cheat and steal and state that something has lower miles to deceive someone like me hoping to make a simple repair for less. Maybe you can enlighten everyone by posting what everyone should replace and at what interval so us lesser folks can aspire to be more like you.

I'm surprised you can fit into an XF based on how big your head seems to be and the ego that is stuffed into it.

 

I think you misread my post. I was saying that the tank needs regular replacement, as evidenced by my needing t do tanks on 4 different Jaguar models.

 

So what is the fix for this? My 2010 XF has the coolant low red sensor light in my car.

Any DIY's someone can share?

 

I think if you read through the posts you will find 2 options and you will have to excuse the unnecessary banter unfortunately. Yours is older and might be able to remove the sensor as described for that option. The other option is replace the tank. I chose what is supposed to be a low mileage used tank and from the appearance it was low mileage. Or, you can buy a new replacement either jaguar brand or aftermarket. I have kept an eye on coolant level and everything seems fine and been check engine light free since.

 

without reading all these gone sideways posts, first on the float repair mentioned and not getting the black cap off. Don't worry about that, just cut a slot in the new float piece and slid it up underneath the old float. Make it narrow enough to not come off. Personally if mine I would replace the tank. I hate rigging crap.
Second NEVER EVER EVER defeat the float. If you blow a hose or pipe you will not have warning and it can easily cost a engine no matter how much you check coolant level. What are you going to do while driving and it happens. I see many cases of rapid coolant loss. Oh that's right you'll monitor the engine temp for overheating. Well a little FYI, coolant temp sensors read :LIQUID NOT AIR!!!!! Oh yeah they EVENTUALLY will, but then it too late and the engine will be cooking. DO NOT be penny wise and Dollar stupid