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Thanks for the suggestion, the moonroof drains are top of the suspect list. I'll open the roof and inject water into each of the drains and see where it ends up.
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Seems like a few other had this issue too. Mine is fortunately bone dry under there
I remember someone using a plastic Tupperware container cut down to the right height and putting the BT module inside of it, so even if water gets into the footwell, the module stays dry. (Unless water gets directly in the container). But clearly better to track down root causes. |
Originally Posted by BritCars
(Post 2513697)
I remember someone using a plastic Tupperware container cut down to the right height and putting the BT module inside of it, so even if water gets into the footwell, the module stays dry. (Unless water gets directly in the container). But clearly better to track down root causes.
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I have traced the source of the water to the condensate drain under the climate control assembly. It occurred to me last night that the water in the rear footwell was crystal clear, too clean to have come from the moonroof as that would carry road grime. The obvious source of pure clean water is the condensation from the a/c evaporator. Once suspected, it was not difficult to trace the stream to it's headwater on top of the front of the transmission tunnel. Not sure that stopping the leak will be as simple as finding it. Seems I can only blame myself for this leak as I dismantled the climate control assembly to replace the a/c evaporator; such a mammoth task was bound to lead to some form of complication afterwards, I can only caution others to take extra care with the connection here in the unlikely event you ever replace a heater core or evaporator. I will humbly edit my rant about the manufacturers.
In other news, I have sourced the wiring harness connector for the bluetooth module from Digi-key. I'll attach a screenshot of the receipt with part numbers next time I'm posting pictures. |
Good find! Would this be related to the "Duck Bill" repair some have done on other models? I have read the XK's had this problem quite badly?
. . . |
I don't know anything about a duck bill or about the XK at all for that matter, excuse my ignorance.
This plastic tube directs condensate from the climate control unit drip tube into a hole in the floor above the transmission https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...54c2a5f93e.jpg It's a strange arrangement, at the bottom of the CC assembly there is a flange surrounding a protruding tube that points about 45degrees forward, AWAY from the hole in the floor which is about 4" further back. There's a foam rubber 'gasket' that is glued to the flange. I peeled mine off as it obviously wasn't achieving anything. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...f38e31b1dc.jpg As the CC assembly is installed, the flange mates against the top hole in that plastic conduit which catches the liquid and takes it backwards to the hole in the floor (or not). The back end of the conduit clips into the hole in the floor, there's a thin plastic 'gasket' of sorts, mine appears to have been badly installed and has a twist in it. Not that that would make any difference, it's never going to be a water-tight seal and is probably not intended to be. The heat shield around the transmission bell-housing is very tight up against this from underneath the tunnel, I got my fingers in there and pushed it down a bit to ensure it doesn't foul and dislodge the drain tube from the floor. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...00d7a50a29.jpg Why it could not have a hose going through a grommet in the floor is a mystery to me, this arrangement is a dog's breakfast and from others' experiences seems to be a common source of trouble. I have re-installed the tube with a large dose of silicon sealant at both ends. It is, like so many parts of this vehicle, an absolute pig to get to. I decided to get creative with the 'remote audio' module bypass; I wanted to be able to plug the optic-fibre harness in as original so I created a bypass loop inside the audio module. Disconnected the two f/o ends from here: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...361f8faaf1.jpg and found a piece of rubber tube that was a snug fit to aim them at each other. The tube was from a garden watering system which seemed appropriate in the circumstances ;) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...3ceace2bc1.jpg Shining an LED into one of them confirms that light comes back out of the other at the connector. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...801dea96b3.jpg Currently drying out the front carpet under-lay and letting the great gobs of silicon dry. Hopefully put the car back together in the next couple of days. When the new BT module arrives i'll just need to undo the seat base and tilt it backwards for access. here's the list of parts for the BT module wiring harness connector; the plastic connector is in two pieces (I ordered two of each) and the crimp terminals to suit (I ordered 10; only 2 required). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...51ec2120d9.jpg |
You did not show it in your pictures but what does the end of the tube look like that exits the car?
The duck bill is just the end of the rubber tube formed so that dirt and air from outside can't enter the car thru that tube. The ends stick together permanently after awhile blocking the tube and causing the AC condensate to back up inside the car. Most guys cut the duck bill all the way off and just run a open ended tube as I think you have? . . . |
The tube that goes through the floor is just the rectangular end of that duct thing. It clips into a hole in the floor on top of the transmission tunnel and immediately below the hole is the transmission heat shield material. A different arrangement to anything I have come across on other vehicles; I'm familiar with the usual drain tube going through a grommet with the end shaped as described (never heard it called a duck bill but it makes sense). This seems to be a completely different setup. Unless I have completely missed something- it is very difficult to access and see what is going on in there, the whole centre console would need to be removed to get decent access to it; if I get water buildup again that will be the next step.
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I received the replacement bluetooth module in the first mail after Easter, along with the connector hardware from DigiKey. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong crimp terminals to fit the connector block but fortunately the BT module came with the wire harness in place and the wires cut off.
I decided to do something a little different in re-installing the new bluetooth module; I have done my best to seal the aircon drain but if I get water under the carpet again, I don't want it to cost me another module. I extended the wiring harness by about 12" and I re-arranged the fibre-optic harness so that I am doing away altogether with the audio module and connecting the f/o harness only to the BT module, using the longer two optic fibers out of the harness. This gives me a little leeway for relocating the BT module above the high-tide mark. I tried various locations on the side of the transmission tunnel but could not get the carpet to sit properly as it is such a snug fit with all the foam backing shaped to the floor pan. I ended up affixing the BT module to the underneath of the seat. Definitely above the water line if I get another leak. I stuck some anti-rattle foam to the module and fastened it to the plastic tray under the seat with some cable ties. Followed the harness that already goes to the seat. I'm very happy with the result; there's enough slack in the f/o and wires to cope with the full movement of the seat. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...faace564e9.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...680aeab2fe.jpg Apologies for the poor lighting. I have drilled a pair of holes in the plastic tray at diagonal corners of the module and cable-tied it through the original mounting holes. I had a few frustrating minutes trying to get things working when I plugged in the replacement module, the display sceen just kept cycling on and off like before. After spending some time arranging and re-arranging the optic fibers and re-checking electrical connections, I realised the fuse was blown (I did produce a tiny spark when I cut the wires last week without disconnecting the battery). Once I replaced the fuse (5a, position 14 in the rear fuse panel), I just had to re-pair my phone and all is now working fine. |
Good info on here. I have an XFR, already replaced BT module when this happened before. Now screen is rebooting randomly, from staying stable for 20 minutes, to rebooting every few seconds. This is the curious thing - when it works, I have tried all the functions - BT phone works without an issue, audio (both TV, radio, and portable audio works, even DAB), and navigation is fine, etc.
So surely if the BT module was broken, it wouldn't work at all (albeit intermittently). Similarly with the audio. Any ideas what this could be? I haven't taken the seat up but I am thinking a connector loose or something.... |
Originally Posted by Bklyn1971
(Post 1718579)
I had the same issue with mine last month. Went out and bought a Bluetooth module after reading this post and still didn't fix the issue. I finally broke down and took it to a Jaguar dealer. Wound up being the 30amp radio fuse in the trunk. They said all the modules checked out fine. I even had them put the original BT module back in the car. If anyone is looking to buy one of these let me know. I have an extra one.
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Hi Rob, did you find a solution to your screen problem. I have the same issue, I bypassed the BT and Sat modules under the DS seat to fix another screen issue but I have the same issue now as you. Any suggestions I am in Sarnia.
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No solution found yet...
Originally Posted by Goody
(Post 2630907)
Hi Rob, did you find a solution to your screen problem. I have the same issue, I bypassed the BT and Sat modules under the DS seat to fix another screen issue but I have the same issue now as you. Any suggestions I am in Sarnia.
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Originally Posted by jaguarxfv8
(Post 1790907)
There is a way to bypass the Bluetooth module, cause it's an option on many cars but I never found out how so what I have done is I bought new wire and connector so I can have more wire and place both the audio and Bluetooth module on the side of the center console. It's not a complicated job but require some knowlaged in electricity. if you really want to bypass the Bluetooth module I suggest you take a look at some car that dont have it and see if you can set up your car the same way.
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My flickering screen issue:
CAR: British Jaguar XF, 2008. FIX: The two modules underneath the passenger seat needed replacing due to water damage. CAUSE: The water has leaked in to the footwell area I believe from the door which wasn't draining rainwater through the bottom hole because it was blocked. It's blocked because the seal at the bottom of the passenger door window needs replacing and it's letting in water and debris. PARTS: Jaguar official name: Bluetooth telephone module eBay / common name: Bluetooth module Jaguar official name: Portable audio interface eBay / commmon name: Aux Audio Connectivity / module The following three parts are for the Bluetooth telephone module power connector if yours is damaged: Receptacle TE part number: 5-965906-5 https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-5-965906-5.html Cover Assembly TE part number: 929053-1 https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-929053-1.html Housing for Female Terminals TE part number: 968265-1 https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-968265-1.html I purchased all three from Farnell UK, very cheaply. PROCESS: My repair wasn't a case of just swapping the above two modules. The power connector for the Bluetooth telephone module was corroded beyond repair and one of the pins from the module had broken off into the power connector. Thus I needed a new connector plug, which comprises of the three parts mentioned above. The first part is for the crimp terminals for the two cables, the second and third slide into each other to form the connector plug. Unscrew the four E12 TX-STAR bolts for the passenger seat. Lean it back on the rear seat. Use a flat wood chisel to lift up the 'Jaguar' trim and the thinner black plastic trim to the right of the 'Jaguar' trim. Lift the carpet off the hooks and fold back. You will see the Bluetooth telephone module. The Portable audio interface is under the air vent. Pull the air vent to your right to disconnect it and get access to the Portable audio interface The underside sponge/foam insulation was soaking wet. I've squeezed out water and used cloths to soak up the excess. It's more wet towards the glovebox in the other section so try dry that area out too. Note: I've read online people calling the module next to the Bluetooth telephone module the DAB module. It's not, unless it's different in Jaguar XFs. The DAB module is in the boot next to the Satellite module. TIPS: 1. If you need to replace the power connector for the Bluetooth telephone module, to keep as much cable length as possible, try breaking the 'Cover Assembly' off with nose pliers first, which will allow you to cut the wires at the very end. 2. My two cables going into the power connector for the Bluetooth telephone module were so brittle/weak that I couldn't strip them with wire strippers, they kept breaking. I had to shave off the ends in the same way a kid sharpens the end of a stick with a knife. Very gently, slicing a very thin layer on four sides of the cable was enough to expose it. Regarding the power connector for the Portable audio interface, it was also corroded but in good condition otherwise. I used electrical contact cleaner and a toothbrush to clean it out and it was fine after that. I did all of the above and my screen came back on immediately including the reverse parking aid. Thanks to @POD XF whose information was extremely useful, my process was virtually identical to theirs. Regards |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b18a28feb6.jpg
Seat removed and leant back https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ad92ac9620.jpg Bluetooth telephone module https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...fe10ffa3c1.jpg Water inside the sockets https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e724908b83.jpg Broken pin to the right https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...107873326f.jpg It was pretty wet under the module. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...96162d1da7.jpg Badly corroded Bluetooth telephone module power connector. The red wire broke off very easily as I was inspecting it. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...53ec8254ea.jpg I used nose pliers to break away the Bluetooth telephone module power connector Cover Assembly to see where the cables were inserted. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2b287f67b6.jpg This is the 'Housing for Female Terminals' inside the 'Cover Assembly'. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cfca95c4e0.jpg |
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...32c2256fbc.jpg
You can see the broken pin which was impossible to remove. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cecbe91afc.jpg Showing how the original cable was crimped. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...23fb791c67.jpg New receptacles. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...6a6deef020.jpg Having fitted the receptacles to the two cables and inserted them into the new Housing for Female Terminals, it was ready to be inserted into the new Cover Assembly. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8c2f4deeb8.jpg All fitted together. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...ff4efc3afd.jpg The Portable audio interface (silver box). It looked fine until I looked underneath. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4bc6802973.jpg Underside of the Portable audio interface. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b81185e8b4.jpg The power connector to the Portable audio interface. I was able to get this to 95% clean with electrical contact cleaner spray and a toothbrush. If yours is damaged, the cable has a plug at the other end also and I'm guessing it goes under the carpet towards the central arm rest where the iPhone / 3.5mm headphone jack / USB connectors are. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e74c0f421a.jpg Screen back on... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d287ecd0cf.jpg ... and parking aid working! |
I am unfortunately just starting to experience this issue as well. My head unit will work for a while, then it will flash for 20minutes, then start working again. When it's functioning, all the controls seem to work. So if it was a faulty Bluetooth module, I would imagine it would never work.. but I'm still thinking of trying the bypass trick to see if that works or if I can identify which of the two modules might be the cause of the issue.
is this the correct loop from amazon? Thanks! ~Nick |
Intermitant
The problem will be on and off you don’t need to by bypass loop the conector innthe car can be seperated there is a video of how to do it somewhere in this thread
Originally Posted by NickJagXF
(Post 2730363)
I am unfortunately just starting to experience this issue as well. My head unit will work for a while, then it will flash for 20minutes, then start working again. When it's functioning, all the controls seem to work. So if it was a faulty Bluetooth module, I would imagine it would never work.. but I'm still thinking of trying the bypass trick to see if that works or if I can identify which of the two modules might be the cause of the issue.
is this the correct loop from amazon? https://www.amazon.com/Mellbree-Conn...dp/B09KZWP19M/ Thanks! ~Nick |
Originally Posted by jaguarxfv8
(Post 2730382)
The problem will be on and off you don’t need to by bypass loop the conector innthe car can be seperated there is a video of how to do it somewhere in this thread
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