Tools Required for Engine Air Filter Replacement (Dual Config)
I have a 2012 XF. All the 5.0L v8s and 3.0SC V6s have dual engine air filters. I bought some Beck Arnley airfilters and want to install it on the car. I am not very mechanically experienced but am ready to start with this. What tools do I need to open the bolts holding the air filter casing? Do I need some extension to reach the low bolts? I can check my dads tool box and I can buy my own tools too and maybe starting building my own tool box. Any advise and help is appreciated |
They are screws not bolts and are easy enough to reach with a midsize screwdriver, and that is the only tool you need.
I can't remember now if they are ordinary Philips head or Torx (I think Philips), but either way easy to undo. Just one tip - they are "captive" in the upper half of the airbox, no need to remove them completely and better if you don't, otherwise you risk dropping one in the bowels of the engine bay never to be seen again. Don't ask me how I know this! |
Those are torx screws.
Follow this video... simple as a pie :) P.S. - Raving the engine after is optional... and please when he gets to the stickers part... just close the browser :D |
Originally Posted by mrNewt
(Post 2021002)
when he gets to the stickers part... just close the browser :D
It's definitely a torx screw, I think it's a T20 but honestly you're best just getting a set of assorted sizes, they can be found very cheaply on Amazon. |
Thanks for all the tips and linking the video. Will try to do this soon. The guys filter in the video looked glued onto the box. Hope mine is not like that . |
Originally Posted by hen555
(Post 2022078)
Thanks for all the tips and linking the video. Will try to do this soon. The guys filter in the video looked glued onto the box. Hope mine is not like that . |
Originally Posted by OzXFR
(Post 2022080)
Yep, glued for sure, no idea why anyone would do that!
That's... kind of dumb :icon_screwy: I thought that sitting in the hot sun eventually got that rubber to melt onto the lid... but damn... glued!? |
Originally Posted by hen555
(Post 2020979)
I can check my dads tool box and I can buy my own tools too and maybe starting building my own tool box. Any advise and help is appreciated |
As an update, I changed my filters over the weekend and I can confirm is T20 torx screws.
Also, my old filters were not glued on ( thankfully :D ). |
so k and n filters wont affect the engine in any way?
cant quote for sure but when i first got mine i wanted to put kandn filters but read that it'll mess with the engine etc etc. on another forum. can anyone confirm? thanks |
Originally Posted by elrich75
(Post 2065971)
so k and n filters wont affect the engine in any way?
cant quote for sure but when i first got mine i wanted to put kandn filters but read that it'll mess with the engine etc etc. on another forum. can anyone confirm? thanks 1. K&N do not flow any better than a clean stock paper filter so zero improvement in performance. 2. You may get a small increase in induction noise but usually so little it is barely detectable. 3. Some say that K&N don't filter very fine dust as well as stock paper but I never experienced that problem. 4. The main and arguably only potential problem with K&N is over-oiling, which can lead to filter oil deposits on the fine wires of the MAF sensors which then leads to poor idle, poor running etc. The solution is easy - don't over oil the filter(s), just a short fine spray is all they need. If you do over-oil them then they are easy to clean and the MAF sensors are also very easy to clean. One trap for young players is they don't realise that a new K&N comes pre-oiled and they oil it anyway resulting in excess oil. My F-Type is the first Jag I have had on which I haven't used K&N filters, for two main reasons - no real advantage over stock, and they are a right royal PITA to change unlike XF filters which are a doddle to change. |
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