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Double check your IC pump setup, coolant for air pockets, etc. Those are the IAT's I get if my pump is failed for some reason. Pump on I am around 100-110 with a Varimax, and pump fuse out for example IATs would be around 160-170. Unacceptable. Something is wrong, trust me.
Originally Posted by Adam J
lol. here i am to rep for the heat soakers..
i just conducted a test of my older denso setup an removed the plastic tubes that go into the intake boxes / also opened up the intake boxes themselves a bit.
my theory was much more airflow of engine compartment air available vs. stock setup of small plastic moldings and cooler air.
removed foam air "blockers" on either side of radiators to let a bit more air in without having to to pass through radiators.
also have engine compartment under tray off car.
took car to track and 90+F ambient / humid. ran worse times than i did before tune and pulley.. had none of the previous wheel spin issues at launch and car felt very soft.
last time got a 12.7 at 110 in 1/4 mile. this time mostly low 13's and a singular 12.8 - all at lower trap speeds that last year.
easy to conclude i had issues with heat - I'm guessing down 80 to 100 HP that night as compared to whee the car should be.
so a friend of mine let me borrow his OBD2 tool. it's an UltraGauge and connects to app on phone via bluetooth. can read all the parameters that car doesn't show you.
ran a couple extended driving sessions on back roads on 2 similar afternoons, one with engine compartment air and the next with factory "cold air".
day one had intake air temps (read at map-t sensor after S/C) creeping just over 200*F and coming down into high 180's on cooldowns. this is mid 80's F and humid.
day two almost identical weather and put plastic cold air tubes back on. much stronger acceleration and intake temps seemed to get no higher than high 160'sF.
worth noting
- just did Bosch charge cooler pump upgrade and that system seems to be working properly.
- engine bay is so hot at those temps that you cannot lay hand on the plastic parts that should be relatively cool.
- best boost with hot engine air was 1.5psi less that the 8.3 - 8.5 peaks i was seeing with colder air from in front of radiators
i will do my best to provide a more complete writeup and some screen capture video of the ultraguage app. it really seems to be a decent way to finally see some of what's actually going on in the engine.
re: s/c whine - i think the factory pleated rectangular filter is the biggest culprit and a conical would definitely let the sound out. i did run it with filter ess air box tops (removed filter, lower air box, all intake tubes) and the whine was there for sure. I do have the mina intake tube, but that did none of the whine improvement i was expecting vs. stock plastic way back when i put it in.
Double check your IC pump setup, coolant for air pockets, etc. Those are the IAT's I get if my pump is failed for some reason. Pump on I am around 100-110 with a Varimax, and pump fuse out for example IATs would be around 160-170. Unacceptable. Something is wrong, trust me.
thanks for the post. are you referencing a different system on a GM product or have you fitted a varimax pump to a comparable 5.0 s/c jag engine?
you've got me wondering. it's been much more fun to drive now that the weather is cooling off for sure.
i was just perusing the workshop manual and found where the coolant pump relay is energized in "power mode 6" and wondering if my relay is engaging or not. might have to replace the factory charge cooler hoses as a project soon and put in service fittings for bleeding / venting
System Operation
Electrical power for the charge air coolant pump is supplied from the intercooler water pump relay in the power distribution box.
When the intercooler water pump relay is energized, it connects power from the battery, via the BJB (battery junction box)
and CJB (central junction box), to the charge air coolant pump. Operation of the intercooler water pump relay is controlled by
the ECM (engine control module). The intercooler water pump relay is energized continuously while the ignition is in power
mode 6.
When the charge air coolant pump is running, coolant flows from the pump outlet through the charge air coolers, the charge air
radiator and back to the pump inlet._____
2010 range rover with 5.0 SC. Sure the chassis is different and some cooling system differences, but designed IAT specs should be close. 160 is too hot.
This morning i beat on it on my 30 minute drive to work and temps get up to like 130 eventually cruising, but lower when you open it up -- I want to add a tank to give this more capacity, that would help even more.
The varimax pump i thought of myself, after seeing the Cadillac guys, who use the same Bosch pump we get OEM, upgrade to. The cool part is we even have the same wiring, so lingenfelter's wiring harness adaptor directly plugs into RR (and im pretty sure jaguar) wiring harness and to pump. Just need to mount pump (its smaller than our oem pump)
Go buy one of those fuse buddy type fuse testors (harbor freight sells some cheap ones for like $11) that will plug in where your IC pump fuse goes, and show amperage. see if that thing is drawing amps engine on.
Originally Posted by Adam J
thanks for the post. are you referencing a different system on a GM product or have you fitted a varimax pump to a comparable 5.0 s/c jag engine?
you've got me wondering. it's been much more fun to drive now that the weather is cooling off for sure.
i was just perusing the workshop manual and found where the coolant pump relay is energized in "power mode 6" and wondering if my relay is engaging or not. might have to replace the factory charge cooler hoses as a project soon and put in service fittings for bleeding / venting
System Operation
Electrical power for the charge air coolant pump is supplied from the intercooler water pump relay in the power distribution box.
When the intercooler water pump relay is energized, it connects power from the battery, via the BJB (battery junction box)
and CJB (central junction box), to the charge air coolant pump. Operation of the intercooler water pump relay is controlled by
the ECM (engine control module). The intercooler water pump relay is energized continuously while the ignition is in power
mode 6.
When the charge air coolant pump is running, coolant flows from the pump outlet through the charge air coolers, the charge air
radiator and back to the pump inlet._____
2010 range rover with 5.0 SC. Sure the chassis is different and some cooling system differences, but designed IAT specs should be close. 160 is too hot.
This morning i beat on it on my 30 minute drive to work and temps get up to like 130 eventually cruising, but lower when you open it up -- I want to add a tank to give this more capacity, that would help even more.
The varimax pump i thought of myself, after seeing the Cadillac guys, who use the same Bosch pump we get OEM, upgrade to. The cool part is we even have the same wiring, so lingenfelter's wiring harness adaptor directly plugs into RR (and im pretty sure jaguar) wiring harness and to pump. Just need to mount pump (its smaller than our oem pump)
Go buy one of those fuse buddy type fuse testors (harbor freight sells some cheap ones for like $11) that will plug in where your IC pump fuse goes, and show amperage. see if that thing is drawing amps engine on.
thank you for the feedback, much appreciated? few questions if you'd be so kind:
- why varimax over bosch? flow rate?
- do you know what "power mode 6" represents? and is there a time when the pump doesn't run?
- what plug in tool are you using to read your IAT? i borrowed the previous tool and haven't purchased one yet
1. I had thought my Bosch pump was failing so figured id upgrade it anyway (turned out it was a bad wire, but was cool with upgrading since varimax are around $200-250) So common sense says we can turn to look at what the CTS-V guys are running. They come OEM with same blower as us (TVS-1900) and IC pump (bosch), and there is absolutely zero doubt in my mind that they as a community are levels of magnitude more experimental and have tried and tested more things than anyone here has. They also get their setups going FAST. (700+ hp on stock blower)
2.Power mode 6 = Run
(fyi, that IS IAT2, its just how hptuners shows it)
3. Its complicated, im actually using HPTuners, since I have it anyway for tuning LS1s /etc. What sucks is they finally added Land Rover / Jag support for TUNING but its for 2013+ model years. Hopefully soon 2013 Range Rover Supercharged will be less than 50 grand for a clean one. Having hptuners tuning support is immense, I'm really curious if well start seeing crazier mods from the jag/land rover crowd. Probably not, lol. Anyway, any scan tool is find, but i have strong preference toward laptop based ones.. though not a bad idea to have a little hand held scanner in glove box. I have JLR-Mongoose clone on a laptop too, but its too complicated to sit and use every time to check iats / etc. Amazon has like $100 touch screen scanners. If you want you can even get an OBD-2 based gauge that will show IAT. I just am not a fan of gauges and theres not a classy place to put one in a range rover anyway.
Did you end up finding out what was causing the high IAT?
so your post got me looking at fuses.. sure enough the charge cooler pump fuse was blown. I'd guess that my stock charge cooler pump burned up and blew it's fuse earlier this year. When i put new charge cooler Bosch 010 pump in, perhaps never had a live circuit. maybe why i wasn't sure if it "felt" any different..
thanks to you i now have one of those amperage testers. the one you mentioned at H.F. was only available at my local store in ATC fuse style. i found one on amazon with all 3 common fuse adapters.
the bosch pump was drawing 3.4 amps once i changed the fuse i believe
i unfortunately don't currently have an obd2 plug in like i had before.. will report back on IATs in future once i get another tool to read them..
08-09-2018, 10:04 PM
