XF and XFR ( X250 ) 2007 - 2015

XFR Water pump change

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  #21  
Old 04-09-2018, 10:33 PM
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Bigg Will...dude..I think I broke the little nipple that goes into the water pump on the front end. The damm thing is a PITA to take off and I may have gotten impatient with it...anyhoo. Is there a replacement nipple for this thing? I am losing small amounts of fluid.
If it's the one that T's to the coolant recovery tank and throttle body, it only comes as a complete unit. You can pull it apart and use what you need which is what I recommend if the line to your throttle body is ok, that tb line is kinda hard to get at.
 
  #22  
Old 04-12-2018, 12:07 AM
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damit!!!!i new it was going to be something like that....just my luck...I hate it when I validate your sig...lol.....for the sake of this not happening again....I am supposed to push on the little brass ring and that should release the hose correct? Freaking manuals...all they give you is one picture, no words, and a vague arrow pointing at something...lol
 
  #23  
Old 04-12-2018, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Cherry_560sel
damit!!!!i new it was going to be something like that....just my luck...I hate it when I validate your sig...lol.....for the sake of this not happening again....I am supposed to push on the little brass ring and that should release the hose correct? Freaking manuals...all they give you is one picture, no words, and a vague arrow pointing at something...lol
I belive you push in on the nipple, the push in on the plastic ring, then while holding in the plastic ring pull out the nipple.
 

Last edited by Bigg Will; 04-12-2018 at 06:06 PM.
  #24  
Old 06-16-2018, 10:57 PM
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Bigg Will I have a question how the heck did you get that hose off (the one pictured in the middle) and the fuel line screws off (shown on the right and left)? do I have to get a special socket to unscrew it on the right side? Left side seems pretty easy I'm thinking.

Thanks

 
  #25  
Old 06-17-2018, 09:41 AM
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The hose you push in, then squeeze it by the grip to release it, and then pull it off. the fuel line clamps take a torx wrench, I don't remember the size, but any set of large torx wrenches should have it.
 
  #26  
Old 06-17-2018, 03:48 PM
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Thanks im sure i can do that.. ill try it tomorrow..

Happy Fathers Day to you If your a dad.
 
  #27  
Old 06-17-2018, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jay13
Thanks im sure i can do that.. ill try it tomorrow..

Happy Fathers Day to you If your a dad.
TY and same to you.
 
  #28  
Old 06-22-2018, 02:39 PM
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Default Bleeding the cooling system

Hi,
How do you bleed the cooling system?
im trying to find steps and im not seeing anything on my model. 2013 xf.
Oh and by the way thanka for that info on that hose and gas line. I was able to get everything off and back on with no problems
 
  #29  
Old 06-22-2018, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jay13
Hi,
How do you bleed the cooling system?
im trying to find steps and im not seeing anything on my model. 2013 xf.
Oh and by the way thanka for that info on that hose and gas line. I was able to get everything off and back on with no problems
Best to use a vacuum filler. Cheap and best way to fill with no bleeding necessary.
 
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  #30  
Old 06-22-2018, 07:00 PM
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Is there one that I could get online. I went to two local auto part stores and they don't sell them. I do see some online however, if there is a particular one that you recommend, ill look into that one. some of the ones I seen are a little expensive.

Thanks
 
  #31  
Old 06-22-2018, 11:02 PM
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I was able to get it done. I talked to a jaguar service tech and he told me to do It was simple.

Thanks



]
 
  #32  
Old 08-16-2018, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jay13
Hi,
How do you bleed the cooling system?
im trying to find steps and im not seeing anything on my model. 2013 xf.
Oh and by the way thanka for that info on that hose and gas line. I was able to get everything off and back on with no problems
With the plastic bleeder screw (It's in the heater line by the fuse box) off, and the heater turned on, I fill the engine through the upper radiator hose ( from the disconnected radiator end) first, then I connect that same hose to the radiator and fill it (from the disconnected engine side). I now connect the upper radiator hose and then fill through the coolant fill tank until coolant it comes out of the heater hose bleed. Close up everything and idle the car until the upper hose gets hot, shut it down and wait about an hour. Check your coolant level if you need to add coolant do so and repeat, don't drive the car until you don't have to add coolant and your heater blows hot. after you do drive the car with the car, keep an eye on the coolant level for a few days, it shouldn't need much if any.
 
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  #33  
Old 10-13-2018, 02:24 PM
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Default The water pump bleed off.

Originally Posted by Bigg Will


Now the way I did the magic of getting the tube inserted and pump mounted with no leaks is, I lined up the pump, and hold it in place just before the seal seated, I then screwed in it's bolts just enough to let me shove the water pump straight back in place, seating the tubes seal. I then tightened the bolts by hand snug until I could torque them in a cross pattern.



When ever possible I replaced the torx bolts with flange bolts. Flange bolts are way more forgiving if you get on them wrong, and easier to get on in tight spots, like the whole XF engine bay..lol



And back to that cross over pipe, it has this seal insert inside of it. If the dual seal leaks it will run down into the V, and look like the plastic tube is leaking, so just go ahead and replace it. The seals were $8 ea. the whole part with the seals $15?




Mine looked like this, I replace the complete seal but it was too narrow, and the correct thickness seal was missing a section. I wasted a gallon of antifreeze chasing this..lol



Once all is back together and filled with coolant pressure test again. Mine held 16lbs. for 3 hours
 
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  #34  
Old 10-13-2018, 02:28 PM
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Default Water pump bleed off.

Originally Posted by Bigg Will


The AJ133 water pump is not a hard beast to change, but you do need to remove EVERYTHING that will obstruct you from pulling it straight on or off like idler pulleys and move hoses a least out of the way.



In addition but not absolutely necessary I would remove the cross over pipe that bolts to the SC snout and throttle body beneath it, as this will give you more sight behind the pump and on the infamous PLASTIC TUBE!




BE SURE AND PUT THE NEW PLASTIC TUBE IN THE SAME WAY THE OLD ONE CAME OUT!



The oil cooler that is fed by the water pumps plastic tube (lower center). That pipe sticking up is what the cross over pipe joins when the SC is installed, more on that later.



New tube in. Some general tips, the pipe has two seals that are the same, one seal goes on the nipple on the oil cooler into the tube, and the other seal goes from the tubes nipple into the water pump, you want to lube the nipple the seals go onto, and the hole the nipple and seals go into, but NOT the seal itself. And DO NOT use a silicone based lubricant. Install the seal on the tubes nipple as shown.
So right beside the pulley on the water pump you have the bleed off hose. What would you call that clip that it goes in on the water pump because mine is leaking and I can't find a good way to fix it.
 
  #35  
Old 10-15-2018, 01:48 PM
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The only way to fix that bleed port off the water pump if it's leaking is to replace the water pump.
 
  #36  
Old 10-02-2019, 08:03 PM
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Thank you for replying to my other comment @Bigg Will and for directing me to this post.
After fiddling around, i found the source of my leak but can't seem to find what this part is called or what the part number is.
The part that's leaking is the plastic unit outlined in red in picture 1.jpg (attached below). While I'm in there, I'm planning to changing out the part outlined in red in picture 2.jpg.
If you guys have the part number, for those 2, that would be very helpful!



1.jpg (part that is source of leak)

2.jpg
Originally Posted by Bigg Will







The oil cooler that is fed by the water pumps plastic tube (lower center). That pipe sticking up is what the cross over pipe joins when the SC is installed, more on that later.
 
  #37  
Old 10-02-2019, 08:17 PM
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Assuming you have the V8, the plastic tube behind the water pump is AJ812249 (which comes with an o-ring) and the rear crossover pipe is AJ814007.
 
  #38  
Old 10-02-2019, 08:22 PM
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Thank you @davetibbs
I actually have the V6, would the same parts fit?
If not, can anyone help with the correct 2 parts for the 3.0 V6?
 
  #39  
Old 10-02-2019, 08:43 PM
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For the V6, the tube behind the pump is C2Z18658 and the rear crossover pipe is C2Z31644.
 
  #40  
Old 10-02-2019, 08:56 PM
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Thank you sir!
Time to order some parts and decide if it's worth replacing a working water pump right now at 51,000 miles
 


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