Chain Tensioner and Guide Replacement Done
 

For all those interested in this procedure I had my tensioners and guides replaced during my 6 year maintenance under the extended warranty I purchased through Jaguar. I need to point out that the new tensioners are controlled by oil pressure, a spring, and on the new units a ratchet. The list prices are the "dealer list prices" the discounted pricing is that allowed by the warranty company that is a cost plus amount. The labor hours was 16.2 hours but figure anywhere from 15 to 20. Assurant paid the entire $3822.38 which is more than I paid for the 100k 6 year policy! Note the wear on the old guides from the tensioners, the new guides, I am told, is a harder material and should wear longer.


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I think this video helps describe the set up and possible root cause better because I had trouble interpreting the picture above.

The original estimate for tensoiner and guide repair at CP pay was $4048.48 and the second repair of the vacuum pump $639.04. Warranty paid the $639.04, so total warranty paid $4,461.42.

As for the vacuum pump that is for the braking system was leaking oil and I had an oil smell from under the hood when I was parked in my garage and was in no way related to the chain repair..

The supercharger does not need to be removed during this repair. The only other thing you may want to do at the same time is replace the water pump as you would be right there and the coolant has been drained.

Hello fellows I have just replaced the timing chain kit on my 2011 XJL supercharged 5.0 motor. To remove the valve covers you have to remove the supercharger. The valve cover has to come off to install the cam locking tool.

I just changed the timing parts on my 2011 XJL supercharged over the winter. It is quite an experience for the first time on this car. The information is limited.to what you have to take of to reach the heads to remove the valve covers.Just before starting the job i helped my friend do the timing on a 5.0 land rover supercharged that had the timing changed 75 K with the updated timing kit new style tensioners and tension guide blades with the steel inserts. The tensioner piston lost its mechanical locking ability, an was forced in where it stuck. The chain slipped the cam gears and bent the valves. This happened on the right [drivers] side head. This will happen with all the 5.0 old or new tensiones, they will fail its only when will the fail. This is the third timing kit in this Land Rover. I cut the tisioner piston apart to see how it works,its made of two stage piston the first stage has the oil check valve the second stage is spring extended with a round circlip that locks into detent grove in the firs stage. This cerclip detent system is the mechanical lock that fails.It is the same lock that is on all the tensioners old or new.From what i have seen there may be several factors that cause the tensioner to fail, one is the tensioner guild blade. There are guild on the new blade that hit the side of the piston rocking it side ways this is because the pivot bolt has to much clearance witch will allow the blade to move side to side. Second the piston when no oil present [like on start up] gets slammed back into the housing hitting the circlip against the detent witch over time makes the cerclip lose. here are two photos of the failed new style tensioner. So i decided to make my own tesioner and modify the blade.So far all is working good.
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How crazy should I go?
 

I am sourcing the parts for this now so that I can have it completed over my summer vacation (when I don't need the car). Do you know why the engine cover (AJ812108) and the fuel hose (C2Z30691) are listed on your invoice? Are they necessary? Also I noticed that you didn't have everything replaced (all guides, timing chains...etc); should these be done at the same time or is it a waste?

The parts I have been considering replacing are:
2x timing chains (C2Z22078)
2x tensioner guides (C2Z28431)
1x chain guide right (C2Z28429)
1x chain guide left (C2Z28430)
2x chain tensioner (C2Z28428)

Should I change all these parts? Is it worth it? Or should I do the same as the invoice (I assume this was task scope allowed under warantee). I'm hoping to hit the sweet spot of being prudent and thrifty as I am not covered by any warrantee. Also consider that I will be paying an independent shop to do the repair for me, so labor matters too.

Finally Im wondering if the 6.35 pitch chain was ever put on an XJ. I only see it listed for XK, XKR and XF. It would be good to know if this is generally true as I'm debating whether I should double-check my parts list again.

Thanks.

Hello Nedoerr Change all the parts, it to big a job to skimp on 1 or 2 parts. You are right about the chain i have not seen 6.3 pitch on Xj Do you have a list of all the parts that you need. The cover was replaced because the front seal is in the cover and the cover has a built in gasket. You can buy a seal but you need a tool to remove and install the seal so the cost of the tool and seal is about the cost of the cover.

In terms of parts I was only planning to purchase all the parts I listed above. I will add in the cover too. What about the fuel hose, friction washer, and bolt? Are there any other parts that are necessary? I already have a recently replaced (2016) water pump.

The part numbers I have listed were given to me by a dealership parts department (by phone) based off my VIN. Weird thing is that when I go online to the dealership parts store and type in my VIN, it doesn't list any timing chain, tensioner...etc that fits my car. Furthermore if I add the recommended parts to my cart, it says they don't fit my vehicle. That was weird. Obviously there must be SOME timing parts that fit my car, so I have assumed that the parts department people are correct and the website is incorrect. But that's the reason I'm considering double-checking my part numbers.

Thanks for the guidance.

Nedoerr As my repair was done under Assurant Warranty, they are pretty tight and only allow the necessary parts. and that is why the chain did not need replacing as my tech has done enough of these that he does not need to remove it and he verified it was not stretched or damaged. Not having done the job myself, I would figure Matt (my tech) found it necessary to replace the fuel hose and he has never ripped me off but knows my feeling "if you think it needs it do it" .Also, he always replaces bolts that may have high torque settings as the used ones may have stretched.

Nedoerr You will need 2 friction washers,1 crank bolt The bolt is one time use stretch to yield .{ you will have to check left or right hand thread] 2 manifold gaskets,1 supercharger gasket, 1 oil filter body gasket, 8 fuel injector seal kits 2 valve cover gasket sets 1 tube of silicon, blue lock tight and all the tools At the same time change spark plugs. All antifreeze Oil and filter. The tool to remove the injector is very hard on the hands and it takes a long time with the slide hammer My friend spent 4 hours to remove 2 injectors and ended up with carpal tunnel. So i made a tool that will remove each injector in 3 to 5 minutes. I hope you have the info to complete the work You can work on the supercharger when it is off

Thanks I’m planning on doing the supercharger at the same time. Well technically my independent shop will do them at the same time. They let me source parts myself to save money (nice!).

Ill post in a bit with my total parts list for the two jobs just to confirm. I will get the rebuilt supercharger snout and solid coupler from eBay. They are even cheaper than powerhouse (especially after international shipping).

Thanks again.

nedoerr When the supercharger is removed it will give you access to the intake ports and valves. If you want to clean the carbon of them it will be a good time. When the top of the supercharger is removed you may see a lot of oil in the crevasses of the supercharger body. On my Jag it looked like it was coming from the right side PVC hose, i did not see oil on the left breather hose so i made a oil catch can system between the PVC and intake to see if this will help stop the carbon build up on the valves.

Okay, so looking back at all the services I’ve had done so far in my last 7 months of ownership, the bill is insane. Obviously most is labor and jacked up parts prices. Therefore I’m now thinking I’d like to do as much of this myself, but not sure how realistic it is.

I think I could do the supercharger job myself, but probably not the timing chain...etc. Can these jobs be done separately? If so I’ll start tackling the supercharger ASAP. If not, then what’s the point? Thanks

Look over in the XF (X250) forum. I've recently changed out the water pump and removed the supercharger. Bigg Will has also done work on these parts and documented the process. If you need help then drop me a PM. The engines are the same. you probably have a bit more room to work with though.

Hi Robert,
See my post #19 in this thread: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...il-car-214892/ , which discusses the change from 5W-20 to 0W-20. It appears that this was done to address ratchet failure.

Which Jaguar-recommended Castrol oil have you been using, the 5W-20 or 0W-20? Did you make the switch after Jaguar announced the new spec?
Best regards,
Stuart

Stuart, as my XJ iwas purchased and serviced at Hennessy North Atlanta, I can say that they have been using 0W-20 since Jaguar has recommenced the switch. Could be that prior to the recommended change the wear had already started. But the original guides were a bad design as the material where the tensioner pushed the guide was aluminum and wore easily. The new guides have a harder steel "button" that the tensioners push on and should wear definitely. Tensioners have been an issue at Jaguar for a longtime as my 2001 XJR had to have tensioners and guides replaced too.

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nedoerr Do you have noise in your timing chain area on start up? If you take of your oil fill cap pull and push on your chain to see if you have slack in the chain. I am surprised that you have not had a singe of a problem with an 2011 timing chain set up.