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I bought this kit off Amazon I did not know I need shop air to use the purge feature
Is there a way around this ? Is there a manual pump I can use to purge the system of air?
What is the point the buying this kit if you need to take the car to the shop anyway to use the air?
Without knowing what kind of housing are you live, but if you have an house with your own garage you might want to look small portable aircompressor available most markets like this:
With this kind of small compressor you can do small tasks with airtools, like your coolant refiller, sucktion brake bleeders, nut guns, etc.. Hide it under your garage workbench and purchase some 10-15m plain hose and short recoil hose at the end for flexible use.
Like these:
Without knowing what kind of housing are you live, but if you have an house with your own garage you might want to look small portable aircompressor available most markets like this:https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Air-Co...1&sr=8-28&th=1
With this kind of small compressor you can do small tasks with airtools, like your coolant refiller, sucktion brake bleeders, nut guns, etc.. Hide it under your garage workbench and purchase some 10-15m plain hose and short recoil hose at the end for flexible use.
Like these: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=air+compr..._ts-doa-p_2_14
Can I used my tire inflater only problem is I don't think it has the right hose connection
You don't need to do any of this. The cooling system on these cars is self bleeding.
How do I put coolant back into the system most of the pipes I changed are empty radiator is probably at half or less
The purge method not only take air out of the system also fills it back up
True you need something to create the vacuum. I have a 7.5HP 25 CFM compressor and it flat gets it!
But I have a blast box and also paint so I want and need a big compressor. It's one of my most used tools. I could not do any real work without that capability.
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When I have done coolant work on the XJ, I never used one of the vacuum pumps. Simply fill the overflow bottle till it stops with big bubbles. Leaving the cap off, start the car and let it run for 30 seconds or so. You can then either at this point stop the engine or leave it running, either way, top up the tank back to the max mark. You will see a fair amount of air continue to come out. With the overflow again at about half way, rev the engine a few times to help push the air around and then sit and raise the engine RPMs up to around 2500 and hold it there for 15 seconds or so. By changing how fast the coolant is going through the system, any trapped air is going to get released. After this, I top up the coolant and put the cap on, going for a short drive. After the drive, I park the car and let it cool. Once fairly cool, open the overflow tank to release any pressure or vacuum (may even see a few more bubbles come out at this point). Top up the overflow tank and you should be good.
When I have done coolant work on the XJ, I never used one of the vacuum pumps. Simply fill the overflow bottle till it stops with big bubbles. Leaving the cap off, start the car and let it run for 30 seconds or so. You can then either at this point stop the engine or leave it running, either way, top up the tank back to the max mark. You will see a fair amount of air continue to come out. With the overflow again at about half way, rev the engine a few times to help push the air around and then sit and raise the engine RPMs up to around 2500 and hold it there for 15 seconds or so. By changing how fast the coolant is going through the system, any trapped air is going to get released. After this, I top up the coolant and put the cap on, going for a short drive. After the drive, I park the car and let it cool. Once fairly cool, open the overflow tank to release any pressure or vacuum (may even see a few more bubbles come out at this point). Top up the overflow tank and you should be good.
Along with the above procedure, using this "funnel", which comes with various adaptors that will press into your coolant bottle's fill spout, and allow you start the engine, let it run, and "burp" the air from it, without splashing all over your engine compartment....
Read the manual instructions on the pump you bought I believe it tells you how to drain and refill the system if no manual UTUBE videos will show you how to do it
Not sure about gasoline engines, but 3.0L diesel have 2 bleed screws on heater hoses.
On our 2014 RRS with the 3.0L gas, it has 4 bleed ports. I'll check on my 2019 V8 later, but pretty sure it has the same bleed ports. A self-bleeding coolant system does not have bleed ports. It would have separate thin hoses that connect to high points in the cooling system and then back to the expansion tank.
Vacuum filling just eliminates any question of bleeding the cooling system.
I checked my 2019 V8, and it does have a separate bleed circuit from the top of the front crossover pipe back to the expansion tank, so it doesn't need the bleeding of our 2014 RRS. Make sure your car has the bleed circuit to know if you need to bleed it, if you didn't use a vacuum bleeder.
I checked my 2019 V8, and it does have a separate bleed circuit from the top of the front crossover pipe back to the expansion tank, so it doesn't need the bleeding of our 2014 RRS. Make sure your car has the bleed circuit to know if you need to bleed it, if you didn't use a vacuum bleeder.
Can you explain exactly the process of the cooling system purge and refill I bought the pancake compressor I am confused don't compressors push air in? How do I get it to suck the air out of the cooling system? is there a reverse switch? is it possible this compressor can damage anything in the cooling system?
Can you explain exactly the process of the cooling system purge and refill I bought the pancake compressor I am confused don't compressors push air in? How do I get it to suck the air out of the cooling system? is there a reverse switch? is it possible this compressor can damage anything in the cooling system?
Nothing Jag specific in this operation and there are lots of YouTube videos to explain vacuum filling, so there's no sense in me reinventing the wheel by making my own explanation here. Here's an example of a video explanation:
Another vote for vacuum filling. Again I post that I wish I had bought one YEARS ago. They are a superior way to fill and remove air bubbles. Since I got mine my 2014 XJR has not needed any top up and had zero air bubbles. Filling from the top with gravity guarantees you have trapped air.
But the kit shown above is not the one to get? That one depends on having the correct radiator cap and they include 30 or so different ones. Get one like this instead?
See there are only 5 or 6 pieces. You need to understand how the filler works? It's pulling a vacuum which is exactly the opposite of what a radiator cap holds which is pressure? So all you need is a tapered fitting into the top of the radiator tank. As you apply vacuum it makes the fillers connection tighter and tighter.
JaguarXJL15 no offense but with the questions you have been asking are you sure you want to even try this?
One of the cardinal rules on fixing things is this statement from the medical field?
First do NO harm!
There is no shame in admitting you have reached your limit? I have taken cars and trucks into shops before myself just because the repairs exceeded my capabilities. The last one was embarrassing because if I had just taken the truck in BEFORE I had added to the problems it would have saved me hundreds of dollars!
I had a rear diff pinion seal leaking on a Ford F-150. I thought no problem pop the old seal out and put the new one in-right?? Except the seal can't be removed without removing the companion flange. I messed up and got it out of alignment and when I put it back together the ring and pinion gears ate themselves! Yes now I need an $1800 rear end rebuild because I had exceeded my abilities!
Of course that's how we learn too but as Dave Ramsey says we all pay the stupid tax. Just different amounts depending on the person!
I bit the bullet and paid a commercial shop to replace and setup the rear end gears. Funny part of this story is we had some metallic noises from the rear of the truck after the repair for a long time. Finally I rode in the bed while the truck was driven around and decided to take the rear wheels off and inspect.
The shop had failed to install ALL 4 brake caliper bolts!! I could not believe it and no damaged was done either. Replaced the bolts and all was quiet. Even commercial places screw up and this was too long after the repair for me to go back on them too.
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Another vote for vacuum filling. Again I post that I wish I had bought one YEARS ago. They are a superior way to fill and remove air bubbles. Since I got mine my 2014 XJR has not needed any top up and had zero air bubbles. Filling from the top with gravity guarantees you have trapped air.
But the kit shown above is not the one to get? That one depends on having the correct radiator cap and they include 30 or so different ones. Get one like this instead?
See there are only 5 or 6 pieces. You need to understand how the filler works? It's pulling a vacuum which is exactly the opposite of what a radiator cap holds which is pressure? So all you need is a tapered fitting into the top of the radiator tank. As you apply vacuum it makes the fillers connection tighter and tighter.
JaguarXJL15 no offense but with the questions you have been asking are you sure you want to even try this?
One of the cardinal rules on fixing things is this statement from the medical field?
First do NO harm!
There is no shame in admitting you have reached your limit? I have taken cars and trucks into shops before myself just because the repairs exceeded my capabilities. The last one was embarrassing because if I had just taken the truck in BEFORE I had added to the problems it would have saved me hundreds of dollars!
I had a rear diff pinion seal leaking on a Ford F-150. I thought no problem pop the old seal out and put the new one in-right?? Except the seal can't be removed without removing the companion flange. I messed up and got it out of alignment and when I put it back together the ring and pinion gears ate themselves! Yes now I need an $1800 rear end rebuild because I had exceeded my abilities!
Of course that's how we learn too but as Dave Ramsey says we all pay the stupid tax. Just different amounts depending on the person!
I bit the bullet and paid a commercial shop to replace and setup the rear end gears. Funny part of this story is we had some metallic noises from the rear of the truck after the repair for a long time. Finally I rode in the bed while the truck was driven around and decided to take the rear wheels off and inspect.
The shop had failed to install ALL 4 brake caliper bolts!! I could not believe it and no damaged was done either. Replaced the bolts and all was quiet. Even commercial places screw up and this was too long after the repair for me to go back on them too.
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You made a good example why I work on my car instead of taking it to a shop or even the dealer
Reason 1 is I don't trust anyone to work on my car
lotusespritse took his car to get warranty work done they told him they did a bunch of work including the sparkplugs in 1 hr when in fact they probably did nothing or very little this is what can and will happen sooner or later when you take your car to someone else to do your work
Reason 2 to save money as soon as you tell the machinic its a Jaguar instead of a Toyota they see money signs everywhere
Reason 3 you learn something in the process and feel better afterwards instead of just throwing your money at it
Reason 4 I am not working right now so I have a lot of time on my hands
Reason 5 pulling the supercharger or filling the cooling system is not like rebuilding an engine I feel confident enough to do it myself if it was engine rebuilding I would not waste 1 minute of my time
Cooling System Purge And Coolant Refill
