DONT get used to it
yes motor mounts fluid filled also, staining or with hood open and foot on brake in drive give a little gas. If the engine jumps up the drivers side is broken. you have to look for purple staining around base of the mount to tell on the passenger side or just replace them both. Passenger easy, drivers side hard

 

Yes, the engine mounts are also fluid-filled. They're very similar to the X350 mounts, the positions, mounting, and overall dimensions are the same. But they have a slightly different design and no aftermarket options unlike the X350 mounts. I'm really not sure what the real differences are.

The transmission mount (even the 8 speed) is exactly the same as on the X350.

EDIT: Brutal beat me to it.

 

Brutal, maybe you know what the difference is between the X351 and X350 mounts? Like I said, they're exactly the same size and shape and positions, but with a slightly different cap design.

 

I know when my engine mounts failed the bellows on the intake system were collapsed on the top and after replacing the were evenly spaced on the tops and bottoms. As for the suspension arm bushing, mine were replaced and they must be of a newer composition as my ride in front was definitely improved and smoother.

 

Take a look at your rear tie rod ends.
These look the same as on my S-Type and don't last as long.
25,000 miles and needed to be replaced.

Needless to say I wasn't happy.

 

Those are the tie rods. They used for alignment purposes and they do go out pretty quick. I believe you can pick them up cheap for the Lincoln LS. My Firestone replaced mine for free when they couldn't be aligned properly.

They're pretty easy to replace yourself but you most likely will need an alignment afterwards.

 

XJ8JR, you are correct. I still think they should last longer than 25,000 miles.

 

You have a 15 year old car and like a set of tires that old, the boots are going to dry rot and crack just like anything else made of rubber regardless of the mileage. But I can guarantee they didn't have a bit of play and therefore should have stayed on the car.

 

So I am now having a front suspension clunk except it seems to be coming mainly from the right side. Before I ordered parts, I decided to jack up the front and take the wheels off to poke around. I checked the sway bar end links, and sway bar bushings. Both look and feel good. No play, gaps, deformation or movement with my hands or a crow bar. The big banana arm bushings look ok and aren't leaking any fluid but I can twist them a little with my hand. I can't tell if this play is normal or if the bushings are worn. I used the crowbar to pry on the suspension arms on the right side and I couldn't find anything loose. Has anyone replaced any of these parts themselves? I can do it (except for pressing the bushings in and out) but I'm not convinced that any of these parts are worn (sway bar end links, sway bar bushings or front control arm bushings). Thoughts/Opinions? Just start throwing parts at it? Or has anyone had other front suspension noise that was not these common to fail parts? Only 26,000 miles by the way. Thanks for the help!

 

You're going to be hard pressed to be able to tell what is bad with the car jacked up and not knowing what is common, or normal deflection. The torsional arm(banana lol) bushing can be split without the leakage, also If leaked a long time the water on the roads will eventually wash the oil away. sway bar bushings will ALWAYS look fine. the way you diag these is drive 5 or so miles an hour and rock the car left and right with the steering wheel. Knocking is loose worn bushings. Other common unseen things are upper shock mounts collapsed and upper control arm bushings split that are pretty hidden in the body. I just changed a set right now cause I suspected them although couldn't see split when prying. Sure enough both sides split. Also check motor mounts with foot on brake, in drive hood open and give some gas. I f the left side jumps up its broken and the right more than likely too. Don't trust oil leaking from them either. Change in pairs. Age, mileage AND crappy pothole filled roads are the issue regardless of mileage, only take one good one. good luck

 

 

I want to do my own replacement of the front lower control arms on my 2011 XF. Is it as straightforward as described? I won't have access to a lift.
Thanks!

 

Do you have the repair manual?

It will be a LOT more work without the lift but yes it can be done.
.
.
.

 

It is pretty straightforward if you're handy with such things. I actually need to replace both sides soon myself. I think you can buy both sides together for $200 off ebay now. Don't be fooled into paying OEM prices; most times the aftermarket stuff is exactly the same.

 

I just ordered these off Amazon. Amazing price. I'll report back once I get them. At least they're easily returnable with Prime if they're no good.


EDIT: The price when I posted this was $105. It has since gone back up to $217.

 

That part does no look like its for the x351 chassis. and the correct part number I see is C2D49933

 

If there's one thing I've learned about Jaguar parts over the years, it's that most times they're interchangeable even when they say they aren't. I practically rebuilt the entire suspension front and rear on my old X350 and and learned that most of those parts are not only interchangeable with various other Jag models but also with the Ford Thunderbird and Lincoln LS. And of course, the Thunderbird and Lincoln parts came without the "Jag Tax"!

The X351 suspension seems to be almost exactly the same as the X350; the differences being the shocks of course, the front straight control arms, and the sway bars, depending upon the specific model. The inner and outer tie rods may be different as well as the upright wheel spindle.

These front banana curved control arms look to be exactly the same as the ones I've replaced before but there's only one way to find out for sure. I do wonder though if there may be some difference in the attributes of the bushings, even if the actual arm itself is the same.

Oddly, when you search the correct part number, the second google hit is the aftermarket Amazon listing, which is how I found it in the first place. But it seems the price just shot up.

 

The bushings are my thought too, as are they a different compound based on the updated suspension without front air shocks

 

Could be, but the old part was also compatible with other Jag models that didn't have the air shocks.

 

It looks like you were right, @XJsss . It appears the large bushing is slightly different after all. The proper part has an extra round of rubber that the old part is missing. Also, it looks like the structure near the smaller bushing may be larger on the proper part. These small details probably affect the ride quality and I'm not willing to sacrifice that, so back they go.

I just found this on RMEuropean.com: https://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/...3-MFG1110.aspx

This appears to be the correct replacement with the updated bushing. Still an excellent price so I've pulled the trigger and will report back when they've arrived.