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I wonder if any sealant compound are added on the sharp corners of the cam bearing area mating surfaces of the cam cover?
On any engine these are typically areas where sealant is vise to add, even new seal is used. (rubber alone are not very good against sharp corners)
Also outermost cam bearing caps should have sealant added on mating surfaces of head for prevent oil creeping out between cylinder head and cap. This is mentioned on service and repair manual, botton of page 891 and drawing for it on next page.
i really can not tell about sealing! I wasn't there…..
And about the cam bearing…. Think not the case. Because the sipping looks like its from the corner, Back corner, lateral side of motor, from the corner about 5 cm are. Its a bolt right there…. I can see it. Maybe its not tighten properly. Will try to reach it with a extension and maybe see how tight it is.
Anyway….. That's some good service shop technician in Romania right there. No matter the money, the firm.….. , shady jobs done. Just to have a good paying client right back! Keeping the business going and prosper, you know.
Can I use brake cleaner to clean the area and see…. From fresh start how it evolves until shop visit?
There are cam outputs on rear of the engine as well. One side belt sproket for high pressure pump and other vacuum pump.
Yes, try to tighten can cover bolt(s) and use brake cleaner to clean the area. Then run engine and try to see if you can see where it leaks. It might need some driwing to get enough oil out since just a few drops can take time and already an teaspoon of oil looks like Exxon Valdez disaster over engine.
There are cam outputs on rear of the engine as well. One side belt sproket for high pressure pump and other vacuum pump.
Yes, try to tighten can cover bolt(s) and use brake cleaner to clean the area. Then run engine and try to see if you can see where it leaks. It might need some driwing to get enough oil out since just a few drops can take time and already an teaspoon of oil looks like Exxon Valdez disaster over engine.
In my case, there was a leak through the gasket under the valve cover (with oil smell and fume on each stop at traffic light).
Even after cover change (aftermarket), and putting it on using additional sealant, the oil leakage and oil smell persisted.
It seams that the plastic cover bends due to temperature changes and gap for leakage appeared.
Only after changing it for second time, using original cover form Land rover (harder plastic) and additional rubber rings (from BMW as they were thicker) for gasket bolts for better pull.
That seams to seal the leak and for a year i feel no smell or see any oil fume. Now only get blue smoke of exhaust at pushing it over 3k rpm. Probably turbo leak. As got level check light for first time.
Sealant has to be applied very correctly. As it also can prevent gasket to lay and seal correctly, creating bigger leakage.
(OFF topic), maybe someone knows, how much engine oil is left in the car after getting oil level indicator? My level never shows the amount of it. - showing empty bar with - "not available" text.
Only after getting red indicator light and checking oil level, i had picture, that level is at minimum.
Added 2 liters, and the indicator again shows not available. The level line is empty (no overflow, no intermediate level indication).
Can it be some damage of level indicator?
The oil level indicator works only after engine have been off for 10min. However: There are an trick:
- Open hood (dosen´t work if closed)
- Choose oil level indicator
- It will say "not available" if engine have been running on last 10min
- Pull twice Cruise control "Cancel" button
-> You have now "on-line" service oil level indicator.
The oil level indicator works only after engine have been off for 10min. However: There are an trick:
- Open hood (dosen´t work if closed)
- Choose oil level indicator
- It will say "not available" if engine have been running on last 10min
- Pull twice Cruise control "Cancel" button
-> You have now "on-line" service oil level indicator.
Wait…. What? You can see litters of oil in the engine? How? On the x351? I Tryed it, open hood, cancel button for cruise….. From the oil menu?
No, you don´t see litres. The "on-line" oil level indicator method bypass the 10min engine off time. The timer is there to give out compatible reading when oil have been flowed back to the pan, so note when you use "on-line" value immediatly after engine running you have some oil still up in heads etc. (reading will show lower than you actually have)
You go to the service menu -> Oil level indicator like you normally do and when you get "not available" message, because you just runned the engine, you click cruise Cancel button twice. (hood need to be open)
This is descripted on service and repair manual as well, starting p.859 on engine oil change section.
No, you don´t see litres. The "on-line" oil level indicator method bypass the 10min engine off time. The timer is there to give out compatible reading when oil have been flowed back to the pan, so note when you use "on-line" value immediatly after engine running you have some oil still up in heads etc. (reading will show lower than you actually have)
You go to the service menu -> Oil level indicator like you normally do and when you get "not available" message, because you just runned the engine, you click cruise Cancel button twice. (hood need to be open)
This is descripted on service and repair manual as well, starting p.859 on engine oil change section.
so…. A am going to follow up on my own post.
i got to the bottom of the problem with the smoke unde mu good, just in front of the deiver corner or the engine.
Its not a pipe! Its not the turbo i think . Its not the valve cover
its actually the basket of the valve cover. Febi i think it was, changes brand new in 2024!
could be a bad gasket, could be a “good mechanic”
In the red area, just as the cover stops, starts the oil spill! On the grey shield and down more
And a little bit of oil on the edge of the cover….moist of oil, just the contact surface of the cover with the block.
So…. From that is the white smoke, and weak smell on hot engine.
Curios is that it just sips… maybe bolts not tight enough! And as it sips down it hits something hot and voila…. Smoke!
This s time I used a mirror with light and adjustable!
Oil level is and was consistent the whole period. Spot on.
So…. Yeah!
hello. I just quoted myself.
U der warranty, the shop changed the gasket. Labor and gasket free. So….. Lets hope its ok.
But….
With jagggg there is always a but,
Kind of oily recirculation system. Not that it was squeaky clean before, but it seams it has some.…. Oil sweat inside the pipes???
With the mention that yes, the passenger side turbe is wet on dpf side at the connection with oil. 500-1000 km after refurb.
Just under the turbo, first connection and the second under the car, towards dpf.
I can see a slight change in oil level, one increment level down, but might be oil left up in the engine
So…. 2 questions.
One. Beside bad refurb, what are the reasons why a turbo would get bad that fast. Basically, after refurb? A bad front near the radiators electric egr valve that I changed already and unequal pressure that affected this turbo?
A bad outlet oil pipe…. Not correct shape after instal?
I saw a similar problem on a range v6 diesel, with a bad design out oil pipe from turbo, and they made another one with a different point of access (another designed hole in the engine) that replaces the Standard one! Do you guys know something about that?
Any other reason?
Still.…. No smoke, runs ok, …. Dpf not with any sighns, no errors in the engine area!
The fact being that in.….500 km, the leak from turbo and exhaust linkages stayed.… pretty much the same. Guess…. Being hot side, if had encreesed, smoke would should appear under car or exhaust! At this moment…. Nothing. Did clean it with brake spray…. And will see!
Second one, how much fora refurb complete turbo in uk? A good job refurbing it also! And turbo related, out oil pipe, may not discharge oil in engine because oil level is one increment down from maximum? Could discharge pipe be…. Fighting with pressure from engine level and not free flow??
Anyway, driver side turbo is ok. No leaks no nothing.
Hope you guys can help with advice about why that one is leaking.… or its just a bad refurb turbo.