Hi,

I just noticed that whatever the way I lock or double lock the car, the fuel flap never gets locked, and is always accessible...

It looks like there is a small round black plastic bolt that does not get out of its hole when it should do so, see picture below...

Is this a know problem and are there usual suspects, and if not, does anybody have the procedure how to access the bolt activator/relay/fuse?
BTW, I noticed on the forum there is no manual unlocking, which is quite conerning and surprising, so I prefer it to be blocked open than closed...

Thanks and BR,

Thierry

 

I know for sure the locking fuel doors were never fitted for the US market.

 

Thanks XJsss, well my car is a european one, but I must say I'm not 100% sure either if that lock is supposed to be fitted...
But I can just not imagine an over-optioned car like a XJ without such a basic security feature...

The bolt seems to be there, the hole in the flap frame to receive the bolt also...

And I saw this thread which clearly says there is such a lock on a canadian XJL:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-x351-53/manual-fuel-door-release-107858/

So question remains open...

 

The fuel door on the US cars should lock/unlock automatically with the car door locks.

 

Thanks for the confirmation DrPainless.

Problem solved: there is indeed a lock on the fuel flap, as one can see on the electrical scheme.
It does not seem to be optional or market specific.
I checked the fuse (10A, F34 in the passenger fuse box, the one behind the rear armrest) and it was blown.
Replaced it and the flap now locks with the doors as it should always have...

 

The question is: what caused that fuse to blow? You might never need to answer it if your filler door continues to operate as designed.

 

Interesting!

I just went into my garage;

The XJ was locked and so was the fuel flap, ditto for the XK8. The F-Pace was locked, but the flap wasn't! It appears that a locking fuel flap was an option on the early F-Pace. I did look at the body side of the flap and there seems to be a locking pin...then it got cold. I'll dig a little deeper in the morning, or wait 'til spring,

wombat

 

@Stuart: Indeed, I wondered why the fuse blew... but learning this would mean reproductibility of the failure, and I don't necessarily need that... ;-)

For the moment everything is working fine...

 

On the subject of fuses, they do wear. Not quite like you think, but in short, they are a resistive part of a circuit and as you pass current through them, a small part of the fuse evaporates away. The closer you run a fuse to its limit, the faster this effect happens. This is why you will find that fuses will start blowing in a car once it hits 10ish years old. hence why in the electrical world, it is accepted practice that you get 1 free shot and replacing a fuse. If the fuse blows a second time, then you have a true problem.

 

Maybe some "low life" tried to force the fuel door open??

 

Well, I opened and closed the car 5 times yesterday evening and the flap did follow the doors....

But an hour ago, taking the car out, I checked, and the door was stuck closed while the doors were open... Which is much more concerning than it being stuck open...

S<Fuse was blown, so I replaced it by an identical one of 10A, it blew right away without opening the flap.

Replaced with a 20A one, and it hold, at least long enough to open the flap, but I did not want to take a chance so removed it and put back a broken 10A one...

Good news is that this is now reproducible..

Bad news is that I still not know what the culprit is.

First suspect is the electric engine that activates the bolt.

Does anybody know how to access it, and possibly have a ref number?

Thanks,

Thierry

 

The fuel pocket (which I believe houses the actuation mechanism - could be wrong) is C2Z11752.
At the very least you could call your local dealer parts if they are helpful, they may be able to point you towards a more specific component.

You are doing the right thing in chasing that circuit, you could put a 20A fuse but again like you know just a bandaid. My guess is some water ingress or wear on the harness assembly. I would probably pull it out to inspect the assembly, but at the same time I just found out we have a locking fuel door right this minute. Hope no one siphons my gas when I haven't been looking. I thought I'd just been driving too fast.

 

Thanks Dmchao.
Yes, your are right, C2Z11752 is the right part, but I could not yet check if the actuator can be sold separately...
https://www.google.com/search?q=C2Z1...FNulsV_JIZbONM


Has anybody the procedure to dismount the whole part?

 

Look like the way is via the wheel arch, in the trunck there is a large body metal panel that prevents any access
Analyzing the problem and similar cases on other brands, it could be that the fuse blows only because the actuator has to push/pull too hard.
So will first try to oil the mechanism and file the hole/bolt so to be sure everything can move without too much friction.

 

That's a good suggestion. Over on the S Type forum we have had this problem for years. The current recommendation is to give the plastic pin a shot of white Lithium grease
every once in a while to prevent sticking. I think it works because I ran the 2005 STR to 132K miles without any fuel door flap problems.
About once or twice a year I sprayed the fuel door pin.
.
.
.

 

Thanks for the feedback clubairth!

 

So far so good: I did file slightly the hole and the pin, and put some Teflon lubricant. Everything is working fine for one week now with a 10A fuse...fingers crossed...