Two quick questions:
1. I'm pretty sure the manual says the V8 has a 5.45 quart oil capacity, not 6.5. Right?
2. Does anyone have the torque for the drain plug? I found a post that said 25Nm, that's 221 inch lbs. Doesn't this sound high?

Thanks!

 

huh?

are you talking group 3 synthetics as sold in North America? the ones that don't qualify for synthetic labelling in europe due to labelling standards?

they start out from hydro carbon basestocks like any other oil.

 

No, 6 liters or 6.5 quarts US is the correct amount. I just tighten it "tight" not to strip out the threads. I don't think they use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug at the shop. While the metric conversion is not exactly, 6.5 quarts is what I have done and afterwards check the dip stick if your need further confirmation.

 

No, the real synthetics no Group 3.

 

This thread is a how-to on oil changes.

The finer points of personal choices in brands and so forth are not germane.

 

I am new owner of 2004 xj8 with not much of history known but low mileage of 20k.
Everything looks like new, ashtrays never used, very clean inside. Car probably was sitting for quite long time. Plan to change oil this weekend and thinking of flushing the engine with Engine Flush.
What do you think? Flush or not to flush the engine? Did it before with american cars and notice quite a black staff coming out in the process.

 

I'll private message you.

 

Thanks for this great post! I just did an oil change on 2004 VDP following your directions. On my car, though, there were two additional phillips head screws at the front that held up the shield and they were rather a PITA to put back in since they're pretty deeply recessed. I think I'll need to invest in a set of magnetic screw drivers so that the screws don't keep falling off (I improvised by using a bit of a making tape).

 

After the second oil change, I had enough with the Engine "Front Under Cover" and decided that an access opening was needed for the Oil Filter and Oil drain. During the 3rd oil change, with the cover removed, I plotted where the Oil Filter and Drain plug positions should be and proceeded to cut the access holes. Power tools are fun! I miss-calculated on the Oil drain location and had to widen the cut-out a little. Reinstalled the cover and the access cut-outs aligned-up perfectly. The 4th Oil change went a lot, lot........faster.

 

I just changed the oil on my 2004 XJR today. What a PITA! I also found replacing the two Phillips head screws very difficult. Taking off and replacing the plastic shield took all of the time. Changing the oil and filter was easy! I used a Purolator Pure One synthetic filter an Mobil 1 0W/30. My car seems very happy now!

 

where were the difficult two Phillips head screws?

 

The screws are recessed inside two holes near the front of the pan. You have to use a flashlight to look inside and see them.

 

This maybe a case where the original fastener was removed and someone just stuck a couple of screws in to attach the shield. There should be two studs that come down and aline into the two recessed holes on the shield. Then you install two nuts that have integrated washers to hold the shield up while you mount the front and rear of the shield with bolts.

If that is the case. You should be able to remove the screws and install two new studs with locktite. If the threads are stripped out you maybe able to tap new threads and install a slightly larger stud. Hope this helps next time you change the oil.

 

the correct part for that position is a pair of steel brackets, which includes the threaded stud. Part no XR816810

I had to change mine recently, they are rather prone to going rusty and breaking when you try to get nut off. One of mine was already broken, the other was rusty.

I used stainless nyloc nuts, copper grease, and sprayed the new steel brackets with metal preservative paint before fitting.

p.s.
Also swapped all the other screws for 12mm M6 stainless flanged hex head screws, with form "C" stainless washers. And copper grease, though calcium grease would have been better when it goes into aluminium. Changed all spire nuts for new zinc-plated, also sprayed and greased. the front lip ones were especially rusty.

 

My plastic tray has two holes (not indentations) in it. There is a metal bracket riveted to the plastic tray and secured to the car with two phillips head screws. I must stick a screwdriver into the holes and remove these screws before the tray will become detached. I don't know... maybe my car was modified? This was the first time I changed the oil and I am not looking forward to the next time either!

 

I'd bet that the original brackets broke and have not been replaced with the right part.

 

That is why I cut access holes in my panel..

 

I would love to use car ramps when changing oil on my 2004 XJR, but the front bumper hits when trying to drive up so I am reluctant to use them. I have a floor jack that works well for me for oil changes

Oil change intervals are a never ending discussion. 10K miles is the factory recommendation with synthetic oil. And synthetic oil, like Mobil 1 which is what I use, is manufactured very differently than refined hydrocarbon oil, so it is much more stable when subjected to heat. I always change my oil filter, if you don't you are keeping half a quart of used on in it as well as less filtering capacity for dirt. Oil consumption is less than half a quart every 10K miles, now with 75K on the odometer.

RyeJag

 

My wife hit a small critter and damaged part of the under-tray so I ripped it off and threw it away. Makes oil changes a lot easier without it.

 

Hmm, $260+tax for a new one. I would be wary of lots of water and debris getting up into the area where the tray was covering. There are electrical sensors and connections around that area that you really don't want to be getting wet.

It also aids in the reduction of drag under the vehicle, giving better fuel economy. If it wasn't needed IMO Jag wouldn't fit it !!!