Supplies pic below from thectsc.com. This is the kit + bolts for the tranny service. My problem is fluid leaking past the pan... will post details and more pics this weekend.

 

Sorry, I posted in the wrong forum. Can a moderator kindly move this thread to the XJ350 forum? Thank you

 

Making sure I could unscrew the fill bolt. That was a bitch. I broke a 1/4" wrench. The tool in the pick is part of a tool set I got at Lowe's.



Removing the bolt pans - Torx T27




Pan removed


Ah, the sleeve. That was a bitch. That is the new one. Getting the old one out is not really a problem



Comparison of the old and new sleeve


Sleeve removed


I tortured myself trying to slide that in by hand but it would not go all the way. And you will know that since the sleeve lock will not budge from its open position. You have to be careful. It only goes one way. Despite that, I had to nudge it in with the help of a small rubber mallet


A $7.99 pump from Harbor freight paid for itself many time over! This thing was awesome. 4 pumps for each half liter...





So I added 3 liters of the ZF fluid, lowered the car, started, shifted between R, D and Park as described in the manual, lifted it back up and it only took 0.5 liters more at 35C temp (using infrared thermometer). So total amount of fluid was 3.5 liters.

 

Since posting this thread, I have realized that I filled the tranny the wrong way. The car *HAS TO BE RUNNING*. So I ended up adding another 2.5 liters of ZF / Lifeguard fluid for a total of between 5.5 and 6 liters give and take.

 

Nice pics and very clean car underneath, I'm impressed (btw, you both use a lift and jacks for safety, good precaution!).
You didn't have problems to extract the small bolts as reported elsewhere?
Apparently still in the wrong forum, good that you provided a link!

 

So, I did a lot of research before attempting this and went in expecting the worst. Since I had a transmission leak, half the bolts were already well lubricated and on the rest of them I used copious amount of WD40. Knowing that this would be difficult, I used a high quality torx bit. I managed to strip only one bolt head and used a chisel and hammer to get it loose. I was actually prepared to use chisel and hammer on all of them but I lucked out.

 

Great thread! Thank you for taking the time to post all this great info!

 

Only posting in this to remind myself I need to do this very soon.

 

It has been over 14,000 since I did this and the tranny is holding very nicely, no leaks, shifts great, absolute joy to drive.

 

Wish I had known about sleeve. Just did pan/filter and seven liters of fluid. But works fine so far also.
Let it drain overnight. Shifts very smooth in Sports mode. This is a 2006 XJR with 99,000 miles.

 

I wanted to have my trans fluid changed in my 2005 XJ8. My local independent was not super enthusiastic about changing the pan; he suggested a drain and fill only. The car has 140K miles, I wanted to replace the filter, and the trans has been seeping and dripping since I bought it. I decided to change the fluid myself and replace the connector sleeve. Using the excellent tutorials and videos members have posted I did the change last weekend. It completely cleaned up the dripping. I used Mercon SP fluid and an after market pan. I put a thermocouple in the fill hole to check the fluid temperature. I reused the bolts as they already had the larger Torx head. I would have used the new bolts that came with the pan, but they were a two piece fabricated bolt, with the threads swaged into the head. One bolt came apart when I was hand tightening before torquing. If you need to buy new bolts, get the OEM or make sure you are buying fully machined and not two part fabricated ones. I bought a kit which included the bolts with the pan. Maybe this is an acceptable manufacturing process for these low torque bolts. Maybe, but I would not manufacture a bolt with this technique. The failure mode - pulling the head off the threads - is exactly what the bolts are subject to in their intended use. I didn't do any testing to see what torque would pull the rest of them apart. However, since one failed with only hand torque and I didn't need them anyway, I choose to not use them. I'm keeping them as an example of poor engineering design to show customers. It just doesn't seem right to design a part which is constantly attempting to self destruct when you use it as intended.

The photos, videos, and tutorials which members post are just absolutely fantastic. Years ago we would have to find someone in our area who was an enthusiast and hope they had 'solved' an issue we needed help with. This forum and the sharing is a great thing. Thanks.

 

I need to do mine soon

 

Exactly what is needed to remove the fill bolt? Is it a hex? Torque bit? what size?

I plan to do this next week. Thanks

 

I had a fluid (ZF Lifeguard 6), sleeve and pan change this past February, on my 2005 Super V8 at 87,000 miles. I bought the parts as a kit on-line from California Transmission Supply Company (The CTSC - ZF Parts). The parts were well packed and I received them a few days after ordering...damage free. My indy shop did the service.

Fast forward to the present. After several driving cycles...Wow what a difference! Not only do I now have super-smooth shifts, I have said goodbye to my irritating transmission "lurch" problem, a complaint that so many others on this forum have experienced with their cars! As far as I'm concerned, the "sealed for life" transmission maintenance schedule is B.S. Our transmissions need TLC, as much as the other parts!

This is the best thing that I have done for my car since I've owned it!
Nice write up Lagonia!

Cheers!

Jon

 

I have watched videos, read threads etc and have all the parts in my garage to carry out this procedure on our 2004 XJ8. I ordered the kit pictured at the beginning of this thread. So with all of that, the single biggest concern/fear I have is regarding jacking the car up.

I can remove the F52 fuse from the trunk fuse box and eliminate possible air suspension problems while still being able to run the car during the re-fill procedure. I have seen guys on you-tube with their XJ8s up on four jack stands but I can never see clearly HOW they accomplished that!

Please instruct me on how to raise the car using my floor jack and rest it upon my four heavy duty jack stands without damaging the car.

Thank you in advance

 

Hi harvest14,

I'm attaching a scan of the Jacking & Lifting instructions from the 2004 Model Year New XJ Technical Introduction Dealer Service Training Manual. The illustrations are not as clear as I wish they were, but it's still the best explanation I've found.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks Don B, you have patiently answered my questions. In fact, I think you answered the same question for me in two different threads! I have been on forums that were not newbie friendly, so again...thanks.

Today is "the day". I am going to do the transmission service and I'm also scheduled to receive a new (used but guaranteed) wheel speed sensor today to see if I can get rid of the abs/dsc fault created when I worked on the front brakes. I hope this all works, because my wife misses her car (and keeps borrowing MY Jag).

So, any words of encouragement, prayers or last minute tips/advice are certainly welcome from all....

Thanks again

 

We were all newbies at some point, and when we bought our '04 XJR I felt like a newbie all over again, despite having owned and serviced Jaguars since the mid-'90s.


Just said a prayer for you, harvest14!

Please let us know how it goes!

Cheers,

Don

 

Thank you for the prayers!

The electrical sleeve was a bit difficult to seat and four of the pan bolts stripped, BUT, with tenacity, vice grips (and prayer!) everything eventually got done. When re-filling I had a mild to moderate stream at 45 degrees Celsius so I put the fill cap on; I think the level is good.

Drove about 40 to 50 miles today thus far. The small lurch happened (in milder form) about once or twice, and then went away. The car shifts smoothly now and no signs of leakage. It took about 5.5 of the 6.0 liters that came with the kit from California.

On a side note, the used wheel speed sensor I ordered from Ebay eliminated the ABS/DSC fault, and the new pads give firm squeak-free braking. I am pleased.

Only thing unresolved: I have a new fuel filter but the nuts holding the under belly panel in place turn the whole stud and do not loosen. Any advice on how to get that panel off?

Thanks

 

Regarding the removal of the sealing tube (Lagonia's PIC #5), the manual says to reposition the locking device then disconnect the electrical connector, then remove the sealing tube (what we all refer to as the sleeve.)

I believe the locking device it's referring to is the white piece of plastic in pic 4?

If so, does it pull down somehow?