Just replaced Front pads and rotors. Took her for a spin. Impressive!

Started working on rear:

Turned parking brake off and disconnected negative battery terminal; opened reservoir.

Brake caliper came off quite easily.

Electric parking brake caliper is another matter. If you have done this, you know that the caliper is attached with 2-13mm head bolts. The rear one came off quite easily. The one towards the front of the car didn't have room for my 1/2" drive; I thought the breaker-bar would do it, but it rounded the edges of the head. I must have not had it as square as I had thought.

Can still apply some pressure with an open-end wrench, but I don't think it will do the trick. There is limited space. & heat can't be applied because of the rubber bushings.

Is there a tool or technique that might work?

Thanks in advance for your help!!

 

Not sure it helps but when I removed mine I first broke it loose with a 13mm ring spanner then extracted it with a 13 mm ratcheting spanner. Maybe you can use PB blaster before you try it again.

 

Looking more closely at the parking brake caliper, is it possible that it is designed to be serviced(removed) differently?

In the attached picture are two torx head bolts. It appears that by removing these bolts the rotor is removable, etc. Is this correct? Or, could it work this way? If so, I can save the removal of the stubborn bolt for another lifetime.

BTW: I have purchased the special tool that is necessary to depress the piston.

 

OK, I've done a bit more research on this excellent site & I see that removing the torx bolts to split the caliper in two would not work because of brake fluid, etc. So, back to the original proposition of removing the entire caliper.

The bolt is somewhere between 3" to 5" long with the thread on the last inch. Will PB Blaster make it to the threads?

Is there a wrench that will attach firmly to the head to preclude further rounding?

 

That's how I do it when changing rotors

Remove the Torx bolts and split the caliper
Remove main caliper
Remove rotor
Wind back the EPB piston

If you are just doing the SPB pads you need to take the caliper off to get to the back pad although its easy if you take the rotor off

Cheers
34by151

 

There is no brake fluid in the parking brake caliper at all. So no problem to split it.

 

Thanks, guys. Would be going crazier if it weren't for your input. In a bit, I will run over to get a Torx head bit for impact wrench and a Torx head screwdriver. Can't imagine it, but if there are any tricks to this part please let me know.

Would you give them a bit of BP Blaster? While I can't think of its name, I have a really good product, name escapes me right now, that I use on my sailboat auxiliary. Suspect it would work just as well? It is very viscous and pumps instead of sprays.

 

Interested how you get on, I need to do my rear brakes soon.

Unfortunately a previous mechanic has left a broken torx bit in one of the front bolts, so I doubt I will be able to split it.

 

Remove the bolt with an "easyout" and replace it
Im guessing he used a rattle gun

Cheers
34by151

 

You bet, Alec.

Ran to the store & got PB Blaster and a set of star heads for my 1/2" drive only to see as I drove into my garage that the same set I had purchased was already hanging above my bench! For those of you not yet there, don't get old!

Squirted 2 stars and stubborn bolt with Blaster. An hour later the Torq bolts came out 1, 2, 3. Picture attached.

After lunch, will remove rotor. With a little luck, the end of the stubborn bolt will be visible.

Still hopeful that there might be a better tool for removing the 13mm other than a box, open end... Thinking of carefully trying a good vice grip. Will apply some more loosener on it before I try to remove it tomorrow.

Alec, while I'm not yet successfully finished, I can say, were it not for the stubborn bolt, it is an enjoyable project. The fronts are a snap. If it weren't for the electric parking brake caliper, the rear would be easier.

Should have more tomorrow.

 

BTW I often encounter bolts that have been mangled, 9 out of 10 times they come right out using my metrinch sockets.
Ive got a full set of short/long sockets in std and impact plus a full set of spanners

They work by gripping on the flats rather than the corners. See pic





An added benefit is many do multiple metric and imperial nuts on a single socket

Cheers
34by151

 

That sounds like exactly what I need. Will look for them. Also, I suspect I'll recognize it when I see one, I'm not familiar with spanner. Will look that one up too.

Have rotor off & unless I'm missing something, the job should be finishable without removing the stubborn bolt. Will try to remove it. The special tool I bought that was specific to this caliper is too large. The space between the posts on the disc part is almost half inch more than the divots on the piston. Will send picks when my internet service is restored. Otherwise, was able to blast the other end of the recalcitrant bolt with penetrator once the caliper was split.

 

Special tool = needle nose plyers or angle grinder handle
It does not take much to wind it back

Metrinch link Metrinch-tools - IF THIS CAN'T DO IT, NO TOOL CAN

Cheers
34by151

 

If you are referring to the caliper piston have a look at this post in the "stickies" section https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...action-145571/

This is what helped me

 

I have installed new rotor & brake pads on passenger side rear! 3 down, one to go. I am on my way to the airport; so, I must dispense with this merriment until my return.

There was a significant piece posted by one of our bretheran on the subject of brake replacement; when I return, will give him full attribution.

That, along with the points made by 34x151, make this a relatively easy job! Thank you. thank you.

If you remove the torx bolts on the parking brake caliper, you can remove the rotor and complete the job without having to release the back part of the caliper. &, the needle nose pliers turning the piston clockwise is all it takes...

Will give a more in depth accounting when I'm completely finished.

 

Thanks to everyone; you have all been so helpful, special thanks to 34x152 for being so attentive and knowledgeable and edobernig for his detailed description of the entire procedure. Wish I could buy you all a beer or two.

Car rides beautifully & brakes are like new.

However, I now can't seem to get the parking brake to calibrate. As far as I can tell, the parking brake does not engage because the brake light doesn't come on at all.

I have disconnected the negative terminal and gone through the prescribed procedure several times. As prescribed, I had the parking brake off before I started and the battery disconnected.

The bulletin said that upon hooking up the battery and and switching the car on, I should get: "Not calibrated"or ""Apply Foot and Parking Brake". The message I get is "Apply Parkbrake". After I go through the prescribed procedure, I then get "Parkbrake Fault". I have gotten a solenoid-like sound from the rear a couple of times while going through the calibrating procedure when I lift EPB switch to apply.

Any ideas as to how to troubleshoot this?

 

If you have SDD/Mongoose run the EPB calibrate

If you don't, manually run the calibrate using the EPB lever. If this fails dont remove the battery, just pull the EBP fuse (with ign off). Cycle the ign on/off and replace the fuse

When calibrating without SDD the EPB will only move so far before you get an error. Pulling the fuse resets the error and lets you go again till you have contact. This only occurs on manual calibration if the piston is retracted too far.

BTW I always wind it back fully as it makes the pad replacement easier. Ive done the calibration both ways but generally cant be bothered starting SDD for this and do a manual calibration

Cheers
34by151

 

Thanks again, 34x151. Tried that & didn't work. I noticed in the post right after mine that Don B said:

"I should have also mentioned that once you get the new pads on and the calipers reinstalled, work the lever on the caliper repeatedly to crank the piston back out. I worked it a few dozen times before I felt like the tension on the lever changed."

When i try the calibration, there is definitely some noise back there. I hate to jack her up again; but perhaps I should try the Don B suggestion?

 

Sounds like the piston is too far back
Just keep going

If you hear the motor go (ie noise) it is working the piston in.
Once you no longer hear the noise the EPB module has given up as the piston is retracted too far.
This is OK as it has moved in each time you hear the motor

Turn off ign
Remove fuse F32 from the rear fusebox
Cycle ign and replace fuse

Repeat the calibration, you will again hear the epb motor working
Keep going till its calibrated. If you need to repeat the above

Cheers
34by151

 

34x151, you are a scholar & a gentleman! 8th time was the charm; all done

Thanks so much!!