I believe you would need to check the MV solenoid and I'm sure the solenoid associated with 4th gear.

Read up on the ZF literature provided earlier in the thread. Great news on aux pump.

 

Thanks Abonano,

i have been looking iver all that was posted. i have a mechanic with me and we teying ro figure out which is solenoid E and which is MV. I also saw a a screen before i cleared codes something that said transmission switch L1, L2, L3 and L4. not sure what these are but all were inactive except L3 it was active.

i have a valve body here with switches in them just need to know which is E and which is MV.

also the more expensive scanner not only showed p0783 but also p0730

 

I'm not sure where that valve body came from, but I sure hope that isn't from your vehicle. (because the E5 solenoid is above the retainer not under it, as it should be = very bad news) The MV solenoid is always the "black" one.

 

David,

I have no idea what you are saying. lol. E5? That is not from my car just an extra one laying around the shop. i notice some valve bodies have 8 like the one in the pic and some have 7.

I got another code to pop up. so far all tranny codes now. tonight i drove down the street and kinda push it a little and Im assuming it must have went pass third . the new code is P0735 gear 5 incorrect ratio?? does that mean it made it to 5th gear? if so what does that mean cause it happen when i put the car under a load. also notice a shudder like vibration when it did get there.

P0730
P0735 (new)
P0783
P1000

We are starting to suspect maybe filter. Maybe it is restricting flow??

 

I know this may sound discouraging to you, but I said this early on, you have lost either solenoid MV or E clutch or both. (No 4th, 5th, or 6th) The difference between valve bodies is that electronic shift has 8, manual shift has 7.

 

David,

I have been looking all over the previous post, online, searching, googling, reading. This is new to me. Please explain to me what you mean by E clutch.
I get MV solenoid, which can be replaced, all the solenoids can, if Im not mistaken. Is E clutch one of the solenoids? Where I am getting confused is I don't understand what each of these solenoids do.

I will now what mine looks like once I take off filter/pan which has been ordered. there are yellows, blues, 1 black, some I have seen online have orange ones. I don't understand what each one does and I have search multiple sites. I think I did see something that showed one of the solenoids on the end was E (4th, 5th, 6th NL, normally high) is this E clutch or are you speaking of an actually disc clutch. lol my apologies but when I hear clutch, I think of a manual transmission clutch stage 1, 2, 3, etc..

Im not getting discouraged, just want to understand what each of these solenoids are responsible for, what the color difference means, and what the inline order is. Trying to do everything I can possibly do, before trying to replace whole transmission.

thanks again for assistance. I will keep searching and reading. I just don't want to accept someone telling me I need another tranny just yet. :-)

 

Forget my question about E Clutch. I found some info on the transmission on bimmer website. It shows a break down of the transmission internals. I think I understand now.

As far as MV solenoid, when this is activated, or deactivated it allows the 4th, 5th, 6th gears to be present correct?

 

If you have R-1~3, you have all the other elements to make 4~6, except the E clutch. (which changes the output ratio) This clutch is sealed by the phosphor/bronze bushings on the input/output shafts themselves. (not real common) The only other element outside the E clutch that is present only in 4~6 is the MV solenoid. MV solenoid failure is not unheard of, but is uncommon. The MV solenoid can be tested by removing it and reading the resistance across the terminals. If it has failed, generally it will be open. The only way to fix the E clutch is removal and rebuild.

 

Thank you David. I will check it out. Filter is on order also.

 

If and when you take the pan off, if you find clutch material or aluminum in the pan, stop there. Find a donor tranny or get the one you have rebuilt.

 

Just changed my valve body and bridge and other seals today. Still have P0783 so odds are E Clutch is done in my case and probably yours also not to be pessimistic.

Mine now squalks/slips when going up into 4th - will go into 5th, etc if I push it but still sets P0783 (I have latest TCM calibrations)

 

Generally what causes E clutch issues is leakage at the bushings to the point it cannot hold E clutch in and it burns the clutch pack out of it.

 

When I picked up the car the trans fluid must've been so low it wouldn't even engage into D without revving it up to 2K RPM to get it to inch up onto the ramps. It was a hassle and a half.

I did an initial fluid/filter change and it drove butter smooth through 1 - 3 but hit a brick wall when attempting to upshift to 4th. I took a gamble on the car and I wound up on the losing end, unfortunately...

Clearly the seller was not entirely truthful. But, I did learn lots today I guess and I'll be selling the valve body and TCM I removed as they must be OK I guess.

 

 

So I took the car for another drive today. I think your video link shared (thx) hits the nail on the head. Before I continue I want to mention I scored 8L of Jaguar branded gear mineral oil.

I used LG6 for last fill & pan/filter change and the Jag mineral oil this time around. (Used same pan/filter as it had less than 100mi on it)

I now notice a quick squalk between 3 to 4 shift and of course the slip.

To me LG6 seems better overall. I helped a fellow forum member change his sleeve, pan and fluid in his LR. We used Mercon SP and driveability/shifting was greatly improved also.

Anyways, cleared the P0783 and decided to shift manually. Started in 3 shifted and when tach neared 2K I shifted to 4 while letting off the gas and trans went into 4th gear, held in 4th, shifted up to 5th (sensed a slight delay but shifted into gear with no issue) and then shifted over to D and 6th gear kicked in smoothly. O/D was present as well.

No shudder, no squawk.

Monitored all the solenoid outputs throughout my drive, 5th solenoid seemed a bit lazy vs. all the other solenoids but read up and mA's were in spec for the solenoid.

Drove it in this fashion for over an hour, no TCM code stored whatsoever after I was done.

I'm going to recheck fluid level later this week and if I need to top off I'll use the LG6 as I have 1L left at my disposal.

I think I nailed the fluid level but would like to recheck to be sure considering I swapped out the valve body.

Thoughts?

 

well new filter came in. got all but 7 bolts out they stripped. now i have to figure out how to get those 7 out. they are the t27 bolts. prob original filter that came on car. any suggestions i know this has happened to someone.

 

Bad luck indeed.

They actually poke up thru the tranny mating flange and most people spray the top where they poke thru with something like "Blaster" and let soak for a few hours before trying to take out.

If there is nothing to grip then you will have to use a bolt removal tool with drilling involved but soak them first with a penetrating lubricant.

 

Jackra_1,

Did a search found a thread on here about using a chisel at 90 degree angle and it knocked them loose thank the LORD. ��

 

chiseled bolt

 

Was that before or after they broke? Doing that after they have broken sounds kinda dangerous to me. The last thing you want is a damaged thread in the tranny housing so that the pan is not properly tight against the flange.

Ok just looked at your pick. So thats before snapping off.

Also I forget whether the T27 are the older smaller Torx bolts. If they are the smaller most people replace with the larger. They are mentioned in this forum.