Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1018304)

So I installed a new compressor, didn't fix it.
But I did find a big leak at top seal of the shock that I hadn't replaced yet so I put a new shock in, didn't fix it.

Car still not raising at all. Air suspension fault comes on after the compressor runs through the 60 second cycle.
Cant find leaks at the o-rings but I will replace them anyway. How about the lines, do they ever leak? How would I go about checking them? Maybe i should start looking at the rear shocks for leaks? Open to any suggestions.

Could it be the ASM or is that out of the question because the compressor is coming on as it should?

Really thought that leaking shock was going to fix my problem. back to the drawing board

Originally Posted by Don B (Post 1018495)

Aloha hawaiianjag,

I'm really sorry to hear your suspension is still not working after all you've done so far. A few questions come to mind:

1. Is the compressor you installed actually "new," or just a different salvaged unit? If it's salvaged, is it possible that its piston ring is worn or its check valve or exhaust valve are not operating correctly?

----- it's a brand new compressor but I will check the pressure coming out of the outlet port incase for some reason I got a bad new compressor

2. Regarding the leaking top seal in the shock you had not replaced, is there a chance you could post close-up photos of that seal?

----- I suppose I could try to dismantle the shock I just replaced to get to the top seal but I'm not sure what the intent would be as I've already replaced the shock with a new one, maybe I'm missing something?


3. The lines can be punctured, bent or otherwise damaged. Jaguar issued a TSB about how to repair the lines. I think to test for leaks that are not near an end fitting you would have to come up with a way to pressurize each line with both its ends plugged and then watch to see that it holds pressure.

-----I will see if I can locate that tsb, don't know how I would pressurize the lines but that sounds like something I should do.

4. Have you investigated the behavior of the valve block in the trunk, next to the air reservoir For example, could the fitting for the air hose from the compressor be leaking? Or any other fitting at the valve block or reservoir? Could the pressure sensor be malfunctioning?

---- is there a way to check the pressure sensor? haven't investigated that area beyond unplugging connections and looking for corrosion, etc but now I will spray soapy water there to look for leaks, and disconnect each airline and inspect for damaged o- rings


5. It would be worth thinking of any possible problems that could have been created when the shop replaced the coolant hose. It would be worth examining the electrical schematics and the air suspension schematics for any wiring or air hoses that might have been near any of the points the shop accessed while replacing the hose.


----I was thinking of that and the area they worked on.... I do notice an air escaping type noise somewhat close to the area they we're replacing the hose but it sounds more like it's coming out of the supercharger area, those thick 1"+ diameter mounted tubes on passenger side of engine seem to be producing an air escaping noise, it seems off to the right of the air suspension area close to the lines mounted on passenger side of engine

6. I can't recall whether you've ever had your car scanned for codes with a system capable of reading the proprietary Jaguar codes (such as JLR SDD), but if not, it may be time to do so.

---- the shop that had replaced the coolant hose was a Indy jag shop and I believe they have those type of scanners, the mechanic mentioned there was a code given off for ride height/level is all he said but I should probably get another shop to scan it. Would driving 40 miles on new shock with no pressure possibly ruin the bag in it? I could probably have it towed but gunna try to rule out more possible causes before doing so

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. Hopefully others will have better insights.


---- thanks again Don for giving me some more things to check.
Really miss driving this thing



Aloha,

Don

Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1018719)

(anyone willing to unscrew one of their air lines while compressor runs to see if pressure is actually supposed to be quite strong coming out of air lines? --- would help me narrow this down) I would describe the pressure coming out of the air lines as someone blowing air from their mouth--enough to move the hairs on my arm but not really high pressure... don't know what is normal.

Originally Posted by abonano (Post 1018941)

To add to Don - when I acquired my 04 XJ8 - both front shocks (one which was a brand new Arnott shock) were disconnected from the air lines and tire air tube fittings were installed on top of each shock.

Previous owners mechanic told him to pump 125 PSI into each shock when they "were low" - of course the mechanic didn't cap off the air lines at the block so every time the car was started air was coming out of each air tube.

I can tell you that air pumping was very strong to each line.

To make a long story short - I repaired the end of one of the tubes, ordered new nuts and olives from SNG Barrett and hooked up the lines to the shocks and no more "air suspension" issues.

I used the air suspension as a bargaining chip to score the car very cheap and when I told the previous owner how I fixed / he kicked himself in the ass.

Originally Posted by Don B (Post 1018848)

Aloha, hawaiianjag,

I am just crazy enough to disconnect my front right shock air hose and run the compressor. The air pressure feels "pretty strong," but I can hold my finger over the end of the hose for quite a while before the accumulated pressure puffs my finger away to relieve a little pressure, and then I can hold my finger on again for awhile. Of course, the opening in the hose is so small that even at a substantial pressure in pounds-per-square inch, the actual total pressure applied to the surface of our finger is relatively light until all the air in the hose from the compressor to the valve block and from the valve block to the front shock is sufficiently compressed for the system pressure to begin to climb rapidly. Since air is highly-compressible, it takes a little while for the unpressurized air in the hoses to compress and repressurize.

For the record, when I disconnected the hose, both front shocks deflated, confirming that the air hoses for both front shocks are connected in the valve block so that both shocks are filled or relieved together. On the early X350s with two front height sensors, I assume that disconnecting the air hose of one front shock would deflate only that shock, and the other shock would remain inflated. When I reconnected the air hose and started the engine, the compressor ran for the full 120 seconds before it timed out. The suspension did not move for at least the first 60 seconds, while the unpressurized air in the hoses was repressurized, and it took the entire additional 60 seconds for the suspension to rise to near full normal ride height.

I can't remember if you have tested the voltage at the air compressor motor electrical connector. Do you have a good strong 12V or so? If your air stream is weak, perhaps the compressor is not receiving the full voltage and current it needs. Forgive me for confusing all the many threads we have going on the air suspension, but have you checked the air suspension relay in the front engine bay fuse box for proper operation? I think I recall one member having a problem with a relay (possibly that one) not latching properly, and the contacts were vibrating so the electrical connection was oscillating. You could also test that relay with your hand to see if it gets hot while the compressor is running.


This is at the valve block in the trunk under the spare wheel/tire, next to the air reservoir cylinder. The manual shows which hose comes from the compressor and which hoses go to the four shocks. You can see the short hose that connects the valve block with the air reservoir. The valve block has two electrical connectors, one for the valve body itself, and another for the pressure sensor that threads into the valve block (the sensor is made by Denso).


I can't think of an additional ride height switch anywhere in the system, so I assume he must mean the ride height sensors. Unless your car is an early X350, it has one sensor on the front left side, and two on the rear, one on each side.


It seems possible that the one shock may be "accepting the air," but may be quickly leaking it out...

Aloha,

Don

Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1018963)

Im a little confused by the explanation you gave but I do have a question... what was wrong with the end of one of the tubes that caused you to repair it? & how did you repair it?

I'm going to order new nuts and olives to rule them out (are the olives that little piece of brass not connected to the nut, at the end of the air line?)

Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1018963)

Im a little confused by the explanation you gave but I do have a question... what was wrong with the end of one of the tubes that caused you to repair it? & how did you repair it?

I'm going to order new nuts and olives to rule them out (are the olives that little piece of brass not connected to the nut, at the end of the air line?)

Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1018967)

I am going to check the relay to see if it gets hot while the compressor is running as well as check the compressor for 12v (do I need to have the ignition on while I test for 12v?)

Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1018719)

I repeated this test to confirm, and the same results.... air continued to hold pressure on the just installed shock when air line was loosened but the other side held ZERO pressure.
Not even a little hiss of air escaped....
pretty puzzled but i think I have at least narrowed down the side that is giving me issues....
any idea what I should do next based on this new info?

I mentioned the above on the phone with a experienced Jaguar indy mechanic and he thinks that because there is no air getting into one of the shocks I should check the junction for the air lines, where all the air lines meet up to get air from the compressor.... anyone know where this is?
He also mentioned something about a ride height switch? is this the same as the sensors?

Originally Posted by Bagpipingandy (Post 1019704)

Hmmm, this shock which doesnt seem to release air is it absolutely empty of air, im trying to work out if air is in the bag and it wont come out, or if their is no air in it at all, (is the cars weight sitting on the airbag or no air in it at all?).
If completely empty and sitting down at that corner is their any damage to the air bladder, is it ripped open? you suggest air is coming out of the compressor lines to the air bag which should inflate it, but does it inflate that corner, or no movement at all? inspect that air bladder if empty,

if it is full of air and just not escaping back out when you remove the airline, has anyone ever use a tyre slime product in it and perhaps blocked the air strut? does the jag use a solenoid valve at the top of the front strut? (I have seen this on audi rear struts)

regards

Andy

Originally Posted by Don B (Post 1019324)

In order to test for 12V at the compressor motor connector, you will to perform your measurement within the first couple of minutes after starting the engine, when the ASCM normally powers the air compressor. Otherwise, there won't be any voltage at the compressor.


Please let us know the voltage you measure a the compressor motor connector.

Cheers,

Don

Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1020201)

I checked the voltage and I am getting 14V at the connector to the motor.... is that normal? is the extra 2v indicating anything? or would the only issue be if it was less than 12v?

Originally Posted by hawaiianjag (Post 1020447)

Thanks Guss!

So I rigged up a tool similar to BRUTALs and was able to determine that there is a major leak in the 4 month old new arnott shock that the previous owner had installed.

The pressure didn't hold as I suspected. As I filled up the shock I could hear the air escaping when I put my ear next to the wheel. I also tested the pressure on the new shock and it held pressure as it should.

So it looks like I found the major leak we suspected and hopefully this new shock will conclude my air suspension saga

I hope I am able to get a refund or new shock from Arnott as this shock is just a few months old (anyone know the warranty on these units?)

Going to overnight a new Arnott shock as I cant wait weeks if not more to get a warranty replacement, if in fact the warranty is transferable to new owners I have receipt for the new shock that the previous owner had installed a few months ago.
I may have a new Arnott shock for sale if anyones interested

Thanks again for your help everyone!
This forum is one of the big reasons I continue to buy used Jags

Mahalo