Today I took the aux. coolant pump out and sure enough the brushes were very worn, and the motor was full of carbon dust. I originally intended to get to a hobby shop and buy brushes with the motor in hand but ran out of time. So I mic'd them. They turned out to be 0.195" x 0.195" and must be about 1/2 in long when new. What I could not figure out was how to successfully reassemble. The brushes are spring loaded and will spring inwards to a smaller diameter than the commutator. On other, larger motors in the past, I've had success holding the brushes back with loops string or wire that then get pulled out once the motor end cap is sufficiently in so that brushes are resting in place against the commutator, but the design of this pump seems to eliminate that possibility. Does someone have the secret?
I ended up purchasing another pump on eBAY, but I'd still like to be able to rebuild this one and keep it as a spare.
Thanks
Paul.

 

Here's a Russian top-secret technology
Fix the brushes, so they are not able to move out. Pour some water (or even a saliva ) on a brushes and put a whole brush holder assembly in a fridge. Frozen water will fix brushes in a place, so it's pretty easy to assemble a pump.

 

In winter in Moscow, the refrigerator is optional

 

Thank you Moscow Leaper. That is a cool idea!. The only reservation that I have in trying it is that the motor is completely enclosed by the casing so that whatever gets introduced into it will tend to stay inside. I now have another pump installed, so when I get a moment I will try to fix the old one. My first attempt will be to see if I can disassemble the pump from the motor such that when I reassemble I can install the end cap with the new brushes onto the rotor, and then slide the casing on after.

 

I, for one, look forward to the pictures.

 

I tried to rebrush mine but could not find exact replacement brushes. I found some that were close, but had the same issue as you. I ended up taking the entire motor apart and inserting the winding into the brushes while I had it all exposed. I though I had it licked, but when I tried to reassemble I broke part of the casing. That was the end of that. I ordered a new one and never looked back. Truly a weak design on this great car. I think it should be required for XJ owners to check that the pump is working every 10,000 miles. I believe the pump is the reason the heater cores fail.

 

During a winter time in a Moscow we use our fridges to warm-up a food

Talking seriously, this small amount of water will not harm a pump motor. But i've decided to go a Bosch 010 route, ordered 2 of them and tomorrow will replace both SC and auxiliary pumps (auxiliary had failed this monday).
Since i'll need to pull of a bumper i'll add an intercooler spay device, which will help with a heat soak (it's pretty needed @summer, especially with a 1.5lb pulley from Eurotoys, which i've just got)

 

I have just replaced my aux pump with a stock replacement
I have the 010 upgrade for the S/C pump

The 010 on the S/C has measured benifits and I posted those results previously

My Aux coolant pump failed at the beginning of summer last year and I have been running for about 6 months with it removed.
I just used a plastic 90deg elbow in its place. The result slightly cooler running on the engine coolant temps and absolutely no heat in the cabin

When cambo had his 010 installed for the S/C the mechanic accidentally replaced the aux coolant pump. The result was overheating which seems consistent. He also needed a thermostat latter on so that may have made it worse but the net result of the 010 as the aux pump was overheating

So i would be hesitant to put a more powerful pump in the aux coolant pump position

Cheers
34by151

 

Well, i've just fixed an overheating issue - thermostat was stuck in a closed position.
I can get a heat in cabin, even with a non-working aux pump. The only issue is that the pass. side blows hot, while a drivers side blows a lot cooler air while engine is idling. After a 1500rpm drivers side blows hot air too.
Anyway, thanks for an info, i'll monitor a coolant temp. and if it will rise up i'll add a resistor to slow down an aux pump.

 

Maybe change the DCCV?
.
.
.

 

Nope. It's just a pump, who's failed

 

I just rebuilt my pump, and found brushes at Ace Hardware that just required some sanding and filing to fit. With the armature fully seated in it's frame, carefully bend upwards the flat of metal at the back of each brush holder until it is horizontal to the base plate. The spring and brush will then come out through the back after you cut the copper braided wire that connects the brush to the motor. After you re-size the new brushes to fit the holder as needed, tin the loose ends of your new brush wires with solder and, if needed, file a notch in the end of the brush where the wire comes out so that the wire will lie in the end pointing up. If necessary, run the wire through the last loop of the spring so that it does not constantly put pressure on the fragile wire. Insert the end of the wire into the brush holder until you can grab it with tweezers and pull it into it's slot. At the same time, gently push the brush and spring into the holder until it is fully seated against the armature and the wire is sticking fully out of it's slot. Now just bend the flat of metal back down to secure the spring and brush, solder the lead wire to the base plate wiring, and away you go.
I know it's a lot of words for a simple operation, but it works well. I've done a zillion motors this way, going back to the XK-120 days.

 

I should mention also that after opening up the cooling system, including both pumps, I still had no heat even though the aux. pump was running. It required several venting sessions at the cap (engine off after short runs) and a few drives around the neighborhood to purge the air from the system and get my heater back, which is now working perfectly.

 

Found this article and mine is apart right now. Waiting to buy brush as mine is pretty much on it's last leg.

HOW-TO Intercooler pump $6.00 fix. - Lightning Forum | LightningRodder.com

 

Well, i've swapped a pumps. I wanted to go a bosch 010 route for aux pump, but no luck - a friend with a XF SV8 called and said that his pump failed too. So, i've got a Bosch 0 392 020 034, which was available in a parts shop. This pump have a larger (19mm IIRC) inlet and outlet, but the motor is exactly the same with our stock aux pump. So it's just a matter of 4 bolts to swap the motor from 0 392 020 034 to jaguar stock pump.
Changing two intercooler pumps (mine and on a SV8) was easy job.
Heat is back, no air pockets.

 

Here is a You-tube video showing how much water the auxiliary pump pumps.

 

Here is what I found on a Mercedes forum that uses the same Bosch pump on how to find and replace the brushes with pictures provided:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163...onality-5.html

When replacing/repairing the auxiliary pump use wine bottle corks to plug the 2 heater hoses. Easy and minimal loss of coolant!

You can get the new brushes from carbonbrush.com a division of Arrow Electric Company. http://www.carbonbrush.com/automotivebrush.htm

Look under Bosch Automotive, the brush to chose is L5-5H they are (.196x.196X.500) 5mmx5mmx13mm back and side shunted brushes $4.00ea and 7.50 shipping (arrived within two days). These bushes will fit into the brush holder without the need to sand the sides and still have a few thousands of play. They will however be a little bit long. Need to shave/sand about 0.125 off (can take some of the back side and front side).

First cut the shunt wire to correct length and soldered the ends to keep them intact. Then cut the groove slot in the back for guiding the spring. After that cut radius for the armature with 1/2" mill (same as armature diameter). Later I cut off old brushes and soldered in new ones. Placed them in with 1/2" bushing between them to simulate the motor armature size and cleaned off the back with small file flush with brush tunnel. I rather cut the back of them since the shunt is mounted way into brush and that space will never be utilized. Cutting the front of brush will shorten their service life.
Then tie sewing thread around the springs to pull them back just enough so they are not applying any pressure and to be able to pull out the bushing without brushes moving inwards. Armature looked very good, just clean it a little using 660 grit sand paper while holding the pump propeller with small screwdriver and spun complete pump/armature assembly around. Brush cap went into motor end very easily, cut one strand of thread and pulled out the other without any problem. Test motor on 12V battery charger before pushing in the locking tabs. Running nice and drawing only 1/2 amp. Believe this one will last in service longer than original since brushes are longer and have maximum length that would fit in. I left only .025" clearance between brush spring and steel motor enclosure. This task took about 20 minutes to complete.

 

Just did this today and done.

 

Congratulations! This thread has very good and with complete information on this practical solution. I hope it gets posted in the HOW TO section.

 

Now that I think about it, to prevent the coolant lost, intead of taking the hose off etc, just unscrew the top 4 Phillips head screws and unplug the wiring and unbolt the to bolts for the mount, the motor unit will separate from the impeller unit and thus coolant and hose still stay intact.

The way the impeller spin is thru magnetic coupling or whatever the terms of it.