Perhaps any of you ladies and gentlemen have had previous experience with KB superchargers, and can help me on what to do next.

A couple of months ago I began hearing a clacking noise when shutting the engine off, at first I thought it would be caldoofy's headers hitting the heat protection, because they went it very tight. Ruled that out, then I thought it would be the either the water pump, or one of the pulleys.
When I took the supercharger belt off, I tried turning the KB pulley by hand... I dreaded to see how much it moves before engaging the S/C drive... here's a clip


Sending the supercharger to the States for a rebuild is not worth it - coupled with shipping costs it would be as much as buying a new one. I ordered a green coupler, an Aluminium coupler, and a couple of extra parts from Jon Bond, and hopefully I can repair it without taking the whole top of the engine apart to pull the supercharger.

I am asking help from anybody with a twin-screw, do you have pics with the S/C disassembled?

I had to shave the sides of my KB, did any of you guys (especially X350/STR) had to do that? If so, how much? Do you happen to have any pics? Can you only shave the chargecoolers? I had unstoppable leaks when trying to fit the offset drilled chargecoolers, only way it worked was fitting the chargecoolers in the stock location, and shaving a bit extra from the supercharger. That's another reason I am asking about how much (if any) did you remove from the sides.

Here are a few pics of mine





I'll take the flak if I overdid it.

If it comes to pull the supercharger out, and replacing it, can I put in a 3.2H or at least a 2.8H? Can Kenne Bell supply those in the "inverted" position, where the compressed air exits up, and the dipstick hole is still up, like we have with the 2.6H?
Also, is it worth it to consider liquid cooling?

Any helping hand is most welcome at this point.

 

Hi Matt. Very sorry to see this. Have you been in touch with Avos? He may be able to help.

 

What I like about this cominity is that you always have a shoulder to cry on when everything goes South )

I have contacted Andre, alas he hasn't replied yet, he may be bussy with things more important than cars. I am reaching out to kenne bell, and learning about KBs from other sites, in the hope I can put mine back on the road.

 

Supercharger Rebuilds at The High Speed Lab Supercharger Shop - The High Speed Lab, HOME for Superior Eaton Supercharger Rebuild Services

You can see what shipping would be. Id suggest removing the snout. If its just a nose cone or coupler issue that wont be pricey to send or perhaps do yourself And replacement twin screws are NOT CHEAP. If you can get just the unit. These guys had gotten a hold of a twin screw I seized years ago and from there had a job made to time these units if bearings need replacement.

 

Slowpoke, I reached the decision that rebuilding the 2.6 plus shipping is just not worth it.

SOO, on Sunday I tossed plenty a coin to Andre, and now a 3.2 Kenne bell is on its way

I have ordered most of the parts for a snout rebuild, after I take the 2.6 apart I'll see what needs to be done. Will reuse the intake, front cover and snout.

 

Hi Matei, use the highest rated coupler (the grey hytrel one, the green hytrel one is the next highest for hardness rating. There is also a green polyurethane one which has a narrower temperature rating, not preferred if you ask me). This is even if you change to a new supercharger. I had my originally supplied yellow polyurethane one start making noise in less than 6 months of use, and by the time I got it replaced at one year, it was totally destroyed and unrecognisable. There is no additional noise noticeable with the harder grey hytrel coupler. The couplers are available directly from Rotex.

 

Here is the rating chart for the spider couplers for the KB superchargers