An odd title I suppose - I want to share my experience and let folks to decide if this method can help extend the life (or prevent some deterioration) of the Aluminum bodied XJ's; X350, X358, X351. Obviously the concept extends to all cars, but it has a specific application here.

The concept, or need for a solution is the minor, but focused usage of steel in our cars, specifically the 10mm bolts used to secure the plastic panels under the passenger compartment, splas panels under front bumper and under the engine/transmission etc.

The build materials weren't completely inappropriate, but do present some weaknesses as far as longevity and so forth. In my case, I have discovered the painfully obvious: regardless of condition, a car from the midwest, or most Northern parts of the US is going to have rust issues not present on Southern or Southwest cars. In spite of being garaged, driven 4k miles a year and mostly gentle treatment, my 07 VDP has MUCH more rust on these bolts, as well as heavily corroded Mezak alloy in the side mirrors.

However Jaguar chose materials for fasteners, they seem to have (mostly) gotten that right in terms of avoiding galvanic corrosion and chemo-electrical corrosion -electrode potential, with plain WATER being the electrolyte, and particularly water with SALT in it. The primary issue is that Ohio uses salt in the winter, North Carolina does not (though they are starting to use a "saline spray" that is generally less harmful, but it's too recent, perhaps 3 winters so far, to know how much "better" it is, and I still treat it as THE ENEMY, and either avoid it if possible or remove it as soon as I can.

These bolts are all rusted quite heavily, and some were not removable or seemed so rusted on that drilling them out was inevitable. I treated all of them with this stuff and repeated the process a month later. When removing bolts, I only have 2 that won't come out. Just as important this product coats everything well, and stops the process of further deterioration, and looks to last perhaps 4-5 months or longer. I'm sold, and the cannshould last a long time. When I put new replacement bolts they will get a nice heavy coating of the corrosion inhibitor right up front. It's good to know you're doing what you can to keep these cars with us, since they aren't likely to return!

Fluid Film is not a new idea, has been around for ages, even if you don't buy-in to my advocation for this or similar products, they are benign and unlikely to harm other than making the coated part greasy.

It's made from lanolin, an oily substance that makes sheeps woolen coats waterproof, and has a mild talcum powdery smell.

There WAS a product that seemed was a bit better, perhaps longer lasting, but seems to have gone AWOL. From the makers of WD40, one of their "Specialist" line of products, I cannot find it locally.

Its substantially more expensive at around 12 bucks for a small can. The Fluid Film may not last as long, but at 4 dollars for the huge size, I'll give it points for value.

Anyway, that's my endorsement for a tested product. I receive absolutely nothing of value or even an "attaboy" from these companies for this. Seems pretty cold and inconsiderate when you think about it, but I am sure the projected species of big cats are gracious along with being spacious and providing a good pacious?

 

Boeshield T9 works far better. That fluid film stuff is a real mess and washes off quickly

Those are 6mm capscrews you're referring to (which use a 10mm hex head)

 

Thanks. I hadn't seen Boeshield T9 but I will hunt it down and check it out. Both products I listed are very greasy, and are not suitable where they will wash down the paint or exterior. That said, they seem to leave a base film even after a heavy wetting (not to be confused with heavy petting) and the WD40 was still effective after 6-8 months under the car. Not perfect by any means, but definitely has value in my humble opinion. I will check back after getting hold of Boeshield T9 . Thanks again!

 

Spray the old trans fluid with a paint spray gun onto the under body steel parts, myself.

May not be the best stuff available.

But sure helps slow down the rust already started.

Fast easy squirts out a good distance.

 

So I saw a rust preventative / Anti-corrosion product shoot out on YouTube. The Channel is "Project Farm" - one that I have been checking out with increasing interest, sort of a regular guys popular mechanics, popular science place to find if product hype stands up, with a bit of Myth-Buster action.

Here is the video, covering a group of products, including what has become my "Go to" product: "Fluid Film" and some others like WD-40 "Specialist" Rust inhibitor.


He even examines urban legend "Used Motor Oil" - I won't give away how that compares to the others. No spoilers here!

They all work to some extent. What I value is a) a coating that will help an already oxidized surface, to stop or greatly slow the rusting process, that b) stays on the surface over a long time-frame, even when re-exposed to the elements, particularly water, whether from rain, snow etc., or vaporized by driving in traffic. Fluid Film has impressed me in this regard.

The methodology used to compare isn't perfect, but he does a great job simulating real world conditions, and measuring the products ability to withstand them.

Curious? Check it out.

You Tube

 

I like the Project Farm videos. Some are just ridiculous fun, new ways of destroying old lawnmower engines, but many have some useful content. Add another rust preventative to the list. Gibbs Brand is a go-to product in the Corvette restoration world. We lose points for not having the original, bare, unprotected metal finishes just like a Corvette left the factory so we can't use stuff that leaves an obvious or detectable coating like the Boshield leaves a residue behind. Don't know how well it'd hold up on undercarriage parts if a car is actually being driven in the rain and snow, but for show cars that only need worry about condensation and humidity, bare cast iron and steel stays looking foundry fresh for a couple of years and re-application is easy, or at least only impacted by how difficult or hard it is to reach the parts that need treated. I buy a package of cheap, disposable acid brushes to use as applicator (you don't want to spray any kind of oils around fiberglass) and touch up spots as soon as there is the slightest hint of orange and it seems to make it go away.

 

Got a can of fluid film to try today, the trans oil does wash off after a short time.

 

So I saw a rust preventative / Anti-corrosion product shoot out on YouTube. The Channel is "Project Farm" - one that I have been checking out with increasing interest, sort of a regular guys popular mechanics, popular science place to find if product hype stands up, with a bit of Myth-Buster action.

Here is the video, covering a group of products, including what has become my "Go to" product: "Fluid Film" and some others like WD-40 "Specialist" Rust inhibitor.


He even examines urban legend "Used Motor Oil" - I won't give away how that compares to the others. No spoilers here!

They all work to some extent. What I value is a) a coating that will help an already oxidized surface, to stop or greatly slow the rusting process, that b) stays on the surface over a long time-frame, even when re-exposed to the elements, particularly water, whether from rain, snow etc., or vaporized by driving in traffic. Fluid Film has impressed me in this regard.

The methodology used to compare isn't perfect, but he does a great job simulating real world conditions, and measuring the products ability to withstand them.

Curious? Check it out.

You Tube

 

I think you will see better durability in wet conditions. My original exposure to these products was the WD40 Specialist "Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor" - truthfully, I think its perhaps a little better than Fluid Film, but its is easily 2x-3x the price. At the rate I use the stuff, a small can, half the size of Fluid Film for $11, I found Fluid film and its nearly the same at half the price. Not sure what the bubbling action is when you first spray these products, but I suspect its neutralizing the rust or changing the PH value.

2+ years on the new car and I see no progression of the rust. That's as much as you could ask for.