Fuel Trims Bank 2 - P0405?
#21
Plugs may well be as my engine: NGK IFR5N10.
They come pre-gapped (if you check be VERY gentle with the sharp central electrode) and are pre-coated with anti-seize.
I found the old ones come out OK if the engine is still hot.
Rear ones are awkward access but OK with UJs etc.
Due at the earlier of 10 yrs / 100K miles.
They come pre-gapped (if you check be VERY gentle with the sharp central electrode) and are pre-coated with anti-seize.
I found the old ones come out OK if the engine is still hot.
Rear ones are awkward access but OK with UJs etc.
Due at the earlier of 10 yrs / 100K miles.
Puzzling that (apart rom the very small tremor at idle) the engine appears to be running well with no backfires (that I have detected) for more than a week?
Our old friend P0405 has now rejoined us as a pending:
#22
Well it needs a good connection so is there some mechanical problem? Spraying won't fix one.
P0405 seems related to a circuit problem so I wonder if there might be a connection/wiring/etc problem with it.
Worth checking with care but it'll be painful and time-consuming.
I suppose both problems just about could (if the elec. diagrams show) related. Staring at circuits is another way to lose time...
P0405 seems related to a circuit problem so I wonder if there might be a connection/wiring/etc problem with it.
Worth checking with care but it'll be painful and time-consuming.
I suppose both problems just about could (if the elec. diagrams show) related. Staring at circuits is another way to lose time...
#23
Plugs may well be as my engine: NGK IFR5N10.
They come pre-gapped (if you check be VERY gentle with the sharp central electrode) and are pre-coated with anti-seize.
I found the old ones come out OK if the engine is still hot.
Rear ones are awkward access but OK with UJs etc.
Due at the earlier of 10 yrs / 100K miles.
They come pre-gapped (if you check be VERY gentle with the sharp central electrode) and are pre-coated with anti-seize.
I found the old ones come out OK if the engine is still hot.
Rear ones are awkward access but OK with UJs etc.
Due at the earlier of 10 yrs / 100K miles.
These are the NEW codes etc:
#24
With no service records and the miles you have I would replace all the coils and plugs to start with. Again if you find oil in the plug wells you will need to change the cam cover gaskets.
As posted above ALWAYS clear the codes when you read them. They must repeat before we can believe them. Otherwise you end up chasing your tail!
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As posted above ALWAYS clear the codes when you read them. They must repeat before we can believe them. Otherwise you end up chasing your tail!
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EsRay (11-26-2017)
#25
#26
#27
#28
#29
If so, please, how do I find out exactly what these component Id's etc. are referring to and what action must I take (while I await delivery of my new coils, plugs etc.)?
Regards,
Ray
#31
#32
Have you checked for misfires due to oil-fouling of the coil units? You could have intermittent misfires due to failing coils, thus the lean STFT.
The issue is with Bank2, so it may not be the throttle body or oxygen sensors.
After a cold soak, remove the Bank2 coil units and inspect for oil-fouling or other deterioration. If there is engine oil present, the cam cover gasket and oil boss seals must be replaced.
The issue is with Bank2, so it may not be the throttle body or oxygen sensors.
After a cold soak, remove the Bank2 coil units and inspect for oil-fouling or other deterioration. If there is engine oil present, the cam cover gasket and oil boss seals must be replaced.
NBCat - I'm just correcting this reply - I think the oil boss seals you refer to are Spark Plug Seals - Part Number: W0133-1656017 - Please correct me if I have this wrong.
So, what is a 'cold soak' and is there anything else I should replace while I have the Cam Cover off, please?
Last edited by EsRay; 11-29-2017 at 06:03 AM. Reason: Correction
#33
Yes you are correct. They are the same thing. They should come with the cam cover gasket set but be sure and check. I prefer the aftermarket Fel Pro brand over the factory.
Even if no leaks I would change the plug well seals as they will be hard as a rock by now and if NOT changed could very well start to leak after you disturb them changing the cam cover gaskets.
One tip? Smear a LIGHT coating of RTV on the both sides of the plug well seals. Remember a little dab will do ya!
If not included you can get them separately.
Cold soak just means let it sit overnight so the everything is cold.
I would not replace things unless you have a reason. You might also have an EGR problem but lets NOT change that out until you eliminate the misfires FIRST because misfires will cause all kinds of other errors.
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Even if no leaks I would change the plug well seals as they will be hard as a rock by now and if NOT changed could very well start to leak after you disturb them changing the cam cover gaskets.
One tip? Smear a LIGHT coating of RTV on the both sides of the plug well seals. Remember a little dab will do ya!
If not included you can get them separately.
Cold soak just means let it sit overnight so the everything is cold.
I would not replace things unless you have a reason. You might also have an EGR problem but lets NOT change that out until you eliminate the misfires FIRST because misfires will cause all kinds of other errors.
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Last edited by clubairth1; 11-30-2017 at 11:30 AM.
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EsRay (11-30-2017)
#34
#35
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One small thing I did notice was that the connecter on cylinder 2 did not give the same satisfying 'click' that I got on cylinder 1? Should I try spraying it with something? Puzzling that (apart rom the very small tremor at idle) the engine appears to be running well with no backfires (that I have detected) for more than a week? Our old friend P0405 has now rejoined us as a pending:
I'm sorry to join your thread so late. You've already received excellent advice from some of our great experts, but I hope you don't mind if I chime in on the persistent P0405 diagnostic trouble code (DTC).
First of all, Jaguar's OBDII DTC definitions and possible causes often differ significantly from the generic definitions and possible causes, so it is important to only use the official Jaguar DTC Summaries guides rather than sources that list the generic versions. The guide at the link below is the most complete one I've found for the X350:
Jaguar X350 DTC Summaries Guide
Here is the listing for P0405:
As you can see, the possible causes are problems with the EGR valve electrical circuits, or failure of the EGR valve due to an open circuit in its stepper motor windings. The fact that your P0405 continuously appears as Pending suggests there is a recurring intermittent electrical issue. If a winding in the EGR stepper motor had opened up, you would expect the P0405 to be a permanent fault.
A common cause of a electrical circuit problems is corrosion or contamination in one or more electrical connectors or on any ground points referenced by the circuit. The EGR valve receives its ignition-switched power via Fuse 14 (10A) in the Front Power Distribution Fuse Box (FPDFB). With the fuse removed, you can test for battery power on one of the terminals in the fuse's socket. Connect the ground probe of your meter to a good ground point, such as one of the two behind the right headlamp. The terminal you find voltage on will be the power bus side of the socket. The other terminal connects to the EGR valve electrical socket on the Green/Blue wires.
Assuming that fuse is not blown and you find battery power on one of the fuse socket terminals, there could be a problem in the associated connector on the bottom of the FPDFB or electrical connector PI41, a 42-pin black-colored connector on top of passenger side suspension tower in the engine compartment. I found this connector information in the Electrical Guide, which you can download at this link:
Jaguar X350 Electrical Guide 2005
Just to rule it out, it would be prudent to do some basic tests on the EGR valve. There are four coils in the stepper motor of the EGR valve assembly. The Electrical Guide doesn't tell us the correct DC resistance of each coil, but with an ohmmeter you should be able to measure continuity (0 ohms or some resistance) across the following pairs of wires at the EGR valve's electrical connector (on the valve itself, not on the electrical harness):
Yellow/Blue (YU color code, Yellow wire with Blue tracer line), connector pin 3; to Green/Blue (GU), pin 5
Yellow/Green (YG), pin 1; to Green/Blue (GU), pin 5
Yellow/Red (YR), pin 6; to Green/Blue (GU) pin 2
Yellow/Blue (YU), pin 4; to Green/Blue (GU) pin 2
If you measure infinite resistance/overload across any of these pairs, that coil is open; or, if you measure higher resistance across one coil than all the others, the EGR valve should be replaced.
With the key in ignition position II (ON), you should be able to measure battery power between the two electrical connector pins with Green/Blue wires (pins 2 and 5) and a good chassis ground point. If you measure significantly lower voltage than current battery voltage, there is probably high resistance in the circuit and the connectors would be the first things to check. To measure the resistance, turn the key to OFF and remove it. Remove Fuse 14 in the FPDFB and measure the resistance from the terminal that does not have battery power to the Green/Blue wires in the harness connector at the EGR valve. The resistance should be very low, probably tenths of an ohm. If you find higher resistance, say a few ohms or more, clean the electrical connector pins with zero-residue electrical contact cleaner and also clean the one on the suspension tower. If that doesn't reduce the resistance, you may need to lift up the FPDFB and check and clean its connectors.
It is also a good idea to clean the ground points behind the headlamps, two on the right and one on the left. The studs, wire ring terminals and nuts are all made of aluminum, on which forms a microscopically-thin layer of aluminum oxide (a white powdery substance) which is an electrical insulator that impedes current in associated circuits, especially those that rely on sensitive voltage or current measurements. Note that the torque spec for the nuts is a very low 6.5 ft. lbs., or just over hand tight. Several members have learned how easy it is to snap a stud off the body by over-tightening the nut. For more information see this thread:
Earth / Ground Points Near Headlamps
Regarding the cylinder #2 coil connector that does not seem to fit securely, I have found that the rubber seals inside the connectors tend to distort with age, preventing the connectors from latching securely. It helps to wipe a little dielectric grease (a plastic-safe silicone grease) on the outside of the narrower or "inside" half of the connector to help the rubber insulator slide into place more easily. Just take care not to get any of the grease on any of the electrical pins or terminals because it is an insulator and can interfere with proper coil operation.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 12-04-2017 at 10:48 PM.
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EsRay (12-04-2017)
#36
#37
#38
After 123 posts over the past couple of months (every one of which has received a response), I would like to thank all my respondents within this excellent forum for their expertise and most of all for their patience!
I had oil in my Plug Wells, so I have taken the advice so generously given and have now successfully replaced my Spark Plug Boot seals, Cam Cover Gaskets, all my Spark Plugs and all my Coils. I had oil seeping out from the base of my Oil Filler 'tube' so I have replaced the seal and (hopefully) cured the vacuum leak that this must have entailed.
Everything appears to be okay; except I still have code P0405 and quite a strong smell of petrol at my exhausts. I am going to take the car out tomorrow and 'boot' it on a motorway to see if I get any more misfires.
Please, what must I do now about this damned EGR Valve sensor A circuit low? I have had the EGR Valve off and it is clean?
Regards,
Ray
I had oil in my Plug Wells, so I have taken the advice so generously given and have now successfully replaced my Spark Plug Boot seals, Cam Cover Gaskets, all my Spark Plugs and all my Coils. I had oil seeping out from the base of my Oil Filler 'tube' so I have replaced the seal and (hopefully) cured the vacuum leak that this must have entailed.
Everything appears to be okay; except I still have code P0405 and quite a strong smell of petrol at my exhausts. I am going to take the car out tomorrow and 'boot' it on a motorway to see if I get any more misfires.
Please, what must I do now about this damned EGR Valve sensor A circuit low? I have had the EGR Valve off and it is clean?
Regards,
Ray
Last edited by EsRay; 12-15-2017 at 06:16 AM.
#39
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Congratulations on your progress!
Regarding the P0405 code, have you conducted the tests I outlined in post #35, and if so, what were the results?
Cheers,
Don
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EsRay (12-15-2017)
#40
I will get right on them in the morning and get back to you with the results
Don, your post is so detailed and yet clear enough for me to follow, you should consider it as a 'Sticky' for the EGR Valve......
Last edited by EsRay; 12-15-2017 at 08:12 AM.
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Don B (12-15-2017)