Ok.

Went to lower the car using sdd v1.30.

Entered in 401mm on all 4 corners.

The front is raised all the way and the rear looks about where I want it. What in the actual hell.

Looks like the software is frozen on the "air suspension leveling in process" screen. Been here about 10 minutes. The compressor is on.

what the $!#/ do i do here guys. Panicked.

Actually very worried. Please help.

 

If the compressor is running non-stop turn off the ignition, if that does not stop it then disconnect the battery.

The car is not broken, although the program in the air suspension module may be corrupt.

This happened to me once, but it was the rear axle that over-inflated to maximum.

The compressor running non-stop will eventually burn-out the seal, so that would be the first thing to address.

 

Car is off. Compressor keep trying to do something intermittently.

 

SDD software crashing in the middle of programming is the always a risk!

You need to manually deflate the front axle, this is only possible by disconnecting the air lines, I did it at the valve block in the trunk. There are five connections at the valve block, you can trace the hoses to work out which ones run to the front of the car. Be careful and let the air bleed out slowly. You will also be draining the reservoir at the same time.

Once the car is back on the ground. Then you will have to look at the situation further.

When it happened to me I had to re-flash the air suspension module, as it was corrupted, and go through the whole ride height calibration process.

Good luck.

 

I can not open the trunk. Button on dash, and trunk button wont work, key too.

 

Then you can pull the relay in the front fuse panel, square brown one. I don't remember which one exactly, um... is it mentioned in the owners manual which relay for the compressor? The other brown one is for the headlight main beams, there is probably a couple of others the same too, can't hurt to take them all out if you can't work out which one.

 

Compressor is not making a sound anymore.. but still no truck access. This is just my luck cambo :-(

 

So the compressor stopped on its own or you pulled a relay?

Using the key to open the trunk in the hidden slot requires a surprising amount of force.

 

Yes it just stopped.

Whoa whoa.

Hidden spot??? Underneath the lip???

 

I love you.

Do I have to bleed these right NOW, or can this wait until morning??

 

Would do it now if it were me, should take you 10 minutes at most

 

Loosen the bolt that holds the line in place where it meets up in the trunk? Will fluid leak, stupid question but you said reservoir ?

I am sorry for my ignorance.

Unplug it I am assuming?

 

Yes where all the air lines meet up, under the spare wheel, work out which ones go to the front and gently crack them till you hear air passing. No liquid will come out it's just air. It will slowly bleed out the whole system. I would not leave the shocks over inflated, not good for them. You need a spanner to undo the nuts

 

I don't know why i asked you about fluid.

I is the dumb.

Sorry man I am flabbergasted.

 

Take a break dude. If you can, crack the nuts on the airlines and let it bleed out, then go put your feet up with a cold beer and/or whatever it is you do to relax.

 

Done, I did just that. I can't thank you enough for walking me through that. Before I was a member and I was just stalking the forums I always noted that your posts were extra helpful. You lived up to it.


If someone comes across this in the future, here is an image, the two larger lines are the front, they dip right into a hole. (Biege/yellow)




So what next, I'll get up bright and early and work that out.

I did not like that one bit, cant believe it crashed on me like that. Totally my luck.

If I start the car will it not go back up to that crazy *** height?

 

When you turn on the ignition now, you should have Air Suspension Fault and Vehicle Too Low showing in the dash.

If you have anything more than that like CONFIG X or something else then we have more work to do.

The next step is to re-flash the Air Suspension module, then do the height calibration.

The car cannot raise itself automatically now because there won't be any air in the reservoir to do it. And the compressor does not run normally until the car is moving.

The only way it will raise now is using the SDD, unless you drive it, which I don't think you will

Don't ask me why the SDD froze up. Sometimes it just does. That's a whole other topic.

What's important now is that it is stable enough to re-flash the ASM, and get through the height calibration. No guarantees on that being the case...

 

Hell no I won't drive it! I did the calibration in the parking lot of a church about 200 meters from my house, my driveway is inclined. Drove it home the 200 meters with it up in the air like that. Didn't really have a choice, no wifi no internet reception out here in the boonies.

If a tow wouldn't cost me a fortune I would have an indy do it, that crash stuff is no bueno.


Would you mind referring me to the correct section of the sdd, where I would find the reflash? Thank you a million again cambo.

when I run the calibration afterwards, I assume enter the OEM values for ride height?

Sorry I am so stupid, I wont be 'playing' with this 'software' again unless 100% necessary.

Edit: No "config x" message.

 

Naso--Lituratus,

The Tread you want with the screens is here
How to lower your X350 - it's all here

Make sure you have the car connected to a PSU (or charger) and the cars voltage is at least 12.2 Volts at all times

Anywhere from 13.8 is ideal while programming

I use a Switch mode PSU/Charger
CHGR BATT 12V 4-STAGE 40A 240V WALL MNT | SLA/GEL Chargers | Charging | Power Products Electrical | PRODUCTS | MB3715 | Jaycar Electronics

Previously I used this one and turned the adjustment up to output 13.2Volts
240 Watt 12V 18A Switchmode Power Supply | Switchmode Open Frame & DIN Rail | Power Supply | Power Products Electrical | PRODUCTS | MP3250 | Jaycar Electronics

As Cambo said, the PC crashing is always a risk
Make sure your Screensaver and power saver features are all disabled as well

One of the key things is to have a good voltage in the car at all times

At a pinch you can also hookup a booter pack but that will not be as reliable and may discharge the car battery if it is not full

If you still cant get into the boot to hookup the PSU you can connect it at the starter.
Another good location is the B+ line that goes to the engine fan. This can be accessed behind the fog lamp cover

See details here
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...an-mod-104790/

Cheers
34by151

 

Thank you, That is the thread I was taking my direction from.

I was also using the battery maintainer at the time I did the calibration.

I had the battery tested and it ran at 12.38v ignition off, 822cca.

while I had the battery hooked up and sdd running I was still getting a yellow / red icon. ?

Oh and I got into the boot, secret key hole. Bleed the system, car is slammed. Will try and run the software tomorrow to fix it.