Hi guys - Have a problem with the above transmission as other people havehad. I Suspected Gycol contamination from the trans oil cooler which otherpeople have suffered from. it's 08 plate - I bought it privately with 20k onthe clock four years ago and it's up to 64k now - so very little really.

I've always serviced the car myself with genuine jaguar (although no donegear box fluids as this was sealed for life) How do I stand with Jaguar? Ifthis is a known issue on a top end car, can I get a re-con box out of them?

I've been quoted £3k for an exchange box?

Anyone else suffered as I have? An excellent car but I also had a turboactuator and therefore turbo to replace about 6 months ago.

Many thanks

 

Better if you can describe the problem ! Very, very, unusual to have a problem at that mileage which needs a new gearbox. A TCM re-flash maybe, or a fluid and filter change.

 

Hi All,

The garage has informed me there is Glycol in the oil after some chemicaltests which I assume have come through the Trans oil cooler. My symptoms are asfollows:

I had noted the car hanging in each gear. It revs for longer before it upshifts in each gear - which may be why my MPG was going from 38-40mpg to low30s. Every once in a while I would get a squawk noise from the trans between1600 and 1800 rpm which I think would be the clutch plates. I checked the oillevel and this was fine and I took a small sample from the sump before I sentthe car away. The oil was blackened (although still had a golden film to it)with a small amount of particles in the bottom. I suspect the plates had beenslipping which has overheated the oil.

I have heard of software updates for the trans which changes the changepoint/temperature and may also re-calibrate the clutch pack? I was ratherhoping I could change the cooler, flush out the system, put in new lifeguardfluid with the 1 litre anti squeal additive, new trans filter and carry out the'calibrated drive' and hope for the best. Do you guys think this is a validoption?

Many thanks.

 

I have not heard of this happening to Jags, but it was a serious issue with the local Fords down here which also run the ZF 6HP26 transmission.

The problem stems from the transmission cooler being a heat exchanger that uses the engine coolant, they would leak internally due to corrosion and you would have coolant mixing in with the trans fluid. They call it a "ZF milkshake" google it if you like. It gets the name because when the coolant mixes with the trans fluid, it looks like a milkshake.

So you will have to have the trans cooler replaced as well...

See attached picture from the parts catalog



Some real pictures here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAGUAR-XF-...-/221345204834

 

Thank - but whilst the garage states I have coolant in my trans I certainlyisn't the milkshake you describe - the fluid has not emulsified into the oil.It is however Dark - So I'm hoping I can have the software updates and flushthe system and then put new cooler and new fluid and filer.

 

You will have a hard time fully flushing out all the old fluid.

When you drop the pan you only get 6 litres of fluid out at the most, but there is actually about 10 litres in there including the cooler lines, cooler, torque converter and what get's held up inside the drums/clutches/etc.

To clear out all the contaminated fluid you really need to remove the trans from the car and strip it down. The alternative is to go through a couple of fills/drains with new fluid, but there will always be a bit left in there, all you will do is dilute it down.

 

Thanks - I do plan on the latter - keep flushing it through. Once I've gotthe vast majority of the fluid changed I will get the garage to perform theupdates and trans calibration. However I have heard of a 'calibrated drive' canI do this myself after he garage has done their updates? Do I have to have alaptop in which case the garage has to do this? Are there any links/instructionson here on how to do this calibrated drive? Cheers

 

Depending upon what it's like to get to the top bell housing bolts, I maysplit the trans and remove the torque convertor to get rid of most of the fluidout of the system as well as a new pan filter. Also I have access to an oilpump and filtration unit. Is there any way I can keep circulating new oil andpumping his through separately and get the separate filter unit to filter anydebris etc? Can I do this vie the cooler lines?

 

You mean to reset the adaptations.

If you clear the adaptations from the transmission there is a set driving procedure that you should go through to re-teach the transmission how to behave. With the IDS/SDD (or Autologic) plugged into the car, you go for a drive and it gives you instructions what to do.

An example here http://www.autologic-diagnostics.com...rive_Cycle.pdf

 

If it were me, and I wanted to keep the car, i'd be pulling out the transmission and stripping/cleaning.

 

Anyone bought a clutch pack and friction plates rebuild kits?- I'm confident I can do this, just need to find a ZF dealer and a price for akit. Can find a kit in the states for about £300 but I can’t see if thisincludes the plates.

 

Bristol Transmission Co. sell pan with integral filter and they may be able to help with other parts.

You can also contact ZF directly-funny enough they have an office in Nottingham.

You don't need to buy Lifegaurd, Millers ATF DM works fine and is much

cheaper.I am using it myself with no problems.

Search Uk forum for confirmation if you like.

Good luck

 

Don't forget the fluid cooler ! If it is leaking coolant into the circuit it also needs to be replaced. It may be part of the radiator, so an expensive item.

 

A batch of diesel S-Types had this same problem and I believe Jaguar in effect paid to fix them. Maybe you could press them - note: Jaguar, not a dealer! - for part payment. May depend on age of the car.

If you bought from a dealer then pressing them would be another alternative.

It might be cheaper to buy a used ZF.

 

If you need any advice these people are recommended on the Uk site.

Automatic Transmission Specialist Recomendation South Yorkshire

 

Hi all,

Well I decided to get some jobs done at the garage initially but I wasn'tprepared to pay £3.5k for a recon box - I had found one for £1.7k and thoughtI'd do it myself. However first I wanted to do a bit of fault finding formyself.

1) I drained the trans oil on Saturday - It was Dark but as per my initialsample I could not see any separation / emulsification/milkshake in the oil.

I allowed the drained oil to settle overnight in a spotless tub. I thenpoured this through a spray painter’s paper cone filter. I was left with a verysmall amount of debris - I've seen far worse in tractor gearboxes.

2) Encouraged, I took off the trans sump - Again this was very clean withminimal amount of debris. There was a very fine grey paste on the two magnetsin the sump - but nothing I would be too worried about after 64k miles.

3) I have sent a separate sample of my oil away for lab analysis - I'mwaiting for the results back but they're capable of telling if here has beenGlycol in the oil.

4) Whilst I'm waiting for the lab report back I thought it would be prudentto remove the trans cooler as I'd have to replace his either way (even if therewas no glycol in the oil I fancy swapping this as this is could lead toproblems later even if it's not a problem now)

Wish I hadn't bothered - what an absolute pain of a job - I suspect puttinga new one back in will be worse.

5) With the cooler removed I have been able to pressurise the water side ofthe cooler with a cooling system pressure kit. This is up to 2 bar and I'm keepan eye on the decay in case the air gets through to the oil side. I'm alsogoing to submerge it in a water tank to see if I can see a trace of bubblesfrom the oil side.

6) As yet I've not seen a decay in air pressure. I'm fairly happy the waterhasn't got in through the cooler. However the garage showed me a test tube withsome chemical reaction that shows the water at the top - I don't think thegarage would falsify this test just to get the gearbox replacement work.

7) Hopefully I'll get away with fitting a new trans cooler; new oil andfilter in the box, recalibrated and have the 'calibrated drive' performed toreset all the box. I'll then probably put some more Lifeguard6 through it in acouple of months. Just nervous about the actual torque convertor now.

Anyone else tested their fluid and cooler in this way to aid diagnosis? Anyone come across an easier way of putting a trans cooler back in??

Cheers Rich